CciENTIFlC  SEWING 

Or. 


AND 


UC-NRLF 


CUTTING 


ANTOINETTE  V.H.WAKEMAN 

Afio 

LOUISE  M.HELLEJ\ 


SlB/ER  BURDETT  %  15'MPAMY 

9» 


EDUCATION 


SCIENTIFIC   SEWING 


AND 


GARMENT  CUTTING 


For  Use  in  Schools  and  in  the  Home 


ANTOINETTE  VAN  HOESEN  WAKEMAN 


LOUISE  M.  HELLER 


SILVER,    BURDETT    &    COMPANY 

NEW  YORK         BOSTON  CHICAGO 


COPYRIGHT,  1898, 

BY  SILVER,  BFBDETT  AND  (^QJpANY. 
EDUCATION  OE 


° 


PREFACE. 


THIS  work  on  Scientific  Sewing  and  Garment  Cutting  owes  its  pub- 
lication to  the  constant  and  increasing  demand  for  information  in  regard 
to  the  system  which  it  explains.  This  demand  has  been  created  by  the 
unqualified  success  of  this  form  of  manual  training  in  the  school  where 
it  has  been  taught,  substantially  as  here  set  forth,  for  the  past  six  years. 

Since  it  is  not  a  theory  reduced  to  possible  practice,  but  the  exposi- 
tion of  a  system  that  has  been  productive  of  the  most  excellent  results, 
it  is  given  to  the  public  in  the  confident  belief  that  it  will  serve  a  useful 
purpose.  ,  • 


I. (52 


PUBLISHERS'  NOTE. 


IT  will  be  noted  in  connection  with  the  diagrams  presented  in  this 
book,  that  the  authors  have  indicated  lines  by  a  single  letter.  This  is 
for  conciseness ;  and  no  confusion  need  arise  if  the  general  scheme  of 
the  parallelogram  be  borne  in  mind,  which  in  every  case  has  for  its  base 
line  A,  its  left-hand  side  5,  the  upper  line  (7,  and  the  right-hand  side 
D.  In  the  more  complex  figures  arrows  are  used  to  designate  the  direc- 
tion of  the  lines. 

The  publishers  are  permitted  to  announce  that  worked  models  de- 
scribed in  this  book  may  be  obtained  by  addressing  Miss  Louise  M. 
Heller,  293  South  Oakley  Avenue,  Chicago,  Illinois. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Introduction , 9 

Clothing  and  its  Uses 12 

Color 13 

CHAPTER   I. 

OUTFIT  FOR  SEWING  DEPARTMENT. 
General  Description  of  Outfit 17 

CHAPTER   II. 
FIRST  GRADE  WORK. 

Preliminary  Remarks.  —  Time  occupied  by  this  grade.  — The  value  of  correct  hab- 
its. —  Condition  of  the  hands  before  beginning  to  sew.  —  Correct  position      .        .        21 
The  First  Model.  —  Material.  —Size.  — The  kind  of  needle  to  be  used.  —  The  thim- 
ble.—  Why  the   thimble   is  placed   on  the  second  finger. —  The  emery. — The 
length  of  the  thread.  — How  work  is  done.  — How  the  thread  is  drawn.  —Care  of 

implements  and  models 23 

Basting. —  How  basting  is  done.  —  How  work  is  held 26 

The  Backstitch.  — How  it  is  taken 27 

Overhanding. —  The  doubling  of  the  model.  —  What  the  two  sides  of  the  model  rep- 
resent.—  How  the  stitch  is  taken 28 

Hemming.  —  The  lines  and  spaces. — A  standard  of  taste 29 

The  Flannel  Stitch.  —  How  it  differs  from  other  stitches.  — How  it  is  done.  —  What 

it  resembles  when  finished 29 

Blanket  Stitch.  —  How  the  first  stitch  is  taken.  — The  thread  kept  under  the  needle.        30 
Second  Model.  —  Material.  —  Size. — The  warp  and  weft  of  cloth. — Preparation  of 

the  model.  — Width  and  length  of  cloth.  —  Where  the  work  is  begun  ...  31 
The  Second  Design.  — Of  what  it  is  composed.  — How  each  line  is  done  ...  33 
Third  Design.  —  The  flannel  stitch  and  two  lines  of  hemming.  — How  it  is  placed  .  34 

Finishing  the  Model.  —  Repeating  the  design.  —The  fringe 35 

Questions  for  Review 36 

Materials  and  their  Manufacture  — 

WOOL 38 

5 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   III. 

SECOND  GRADE  WORK.  PAGE 

Preliminary  Remarks.— Model  for  one  year's  work.  —  The  stitches    ....  41 

The  Model.—  Material.  —  Size  of  model.  —  Preparation  of  model.  —  Limit  of  designs.  42 

First  Design.  —  Where  placed.  —  Thread  used 43 

Second  Design.  —  Of  what  composed. — Where  placed 44 

Third  Design.  —  Stitches  used.  —  Lines  and  spaces 45 

Fourth  Design. — Spaces  and  stitches. — Stemstitch 45 

Hemstitching.  —Drawing  the  threads. —How  the  stitch  is  taken. —Hemming  the 

edge  of  the  model 46 

Joining  and  Finishing  the  Model — Depth  of  overhand  stitch.—  Facing  the  model.— 

Finishing  the  top  of  the  model.  —  Putting  in  the  draw-string 47 

Questions  for  Review 49 

Materials  and  their  Manufacture  — 

FLAX 50 

THIMBLES 52 

CHAPTER   IV. 
THIRD  GRADE  WORK. 
Preliminary  Remarks.  —  Practice  with  scissors.  —  Drafting  model.  — How  the  case 

is  formed  from  the  parallelogram.  —  The  linen  hem.  —  Finishing  model        .         .        54 
Second  Model.  —  Material.  —  Drafting  and  cutting.  —  How  prepared.  —  Two  kinds  of 

darning.  —  Use  of  different  darns 58 

Third  Model. —  The  knitted  darn.  —  How  it  is  done.  —  For  what  it  is  used  ...        62 

Questions  for  Review 64 

Materials  and  their  Manufacture  — 

COTTON 64 

CHAPTER  V. 
FOURTH  GRADE  WORK. 

Preliminary'  Remarks.  —  Introduction  of  the  knot.  —  The  apron.  — Fancy  silk  bag  .  68 

First  Model.  —  Material.  —  Size  and  form.  —  Gathering.  —  Finishing  the  puff       .         .  68 

Second  Model.  —  Buttonholes  in  felt.  —  Buttonholes  in  cloth.  —  Hooks  and  eyes         .  70 
Third  Model.  —  The  gingham  apron.  —  Drafting  and  cutting  pattern.  —  Cutting  and 

making  apron 71 

The  Silk  Bag.— Cutting  and  making 73 

Questions  for  Review 74 

Materials  and  their  Manufacture    - 

SPOOLS ...  75 

THREAD,  AND  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  COTTON    .......  7G 


CONTENTS.  7 

CHAPTER  VI. 
WORK  OF  THE  FIFTH  GRADE.  PAGE 

Preliminary  Remarks.  —  The  four  models  of  the  grade 80 

The  First  Model. —  Size  and  material. — Turning  of  the  hem.  —  Hemstitching. — 

Marking 80 

Second  Model.  —  Fancy  sewing  apron.  —  Drafting,  cutting,  and  making         .        .        .        81. 
Third  Model.  —  Underdrawers.  —  Taking  the  measures.  —  Drafting  the   pattern. — 

Cutting  drawers.  —  Putting  together  and  making 84 

Fourth  Model.  —  The  tear  darn.  — How  the  model  is  prepared.  —  How  the  darning  is 

done. — Review  of  all  the  darning '        .        90 

Questions  for  Review 91 

Materials  and  their  Manufacture  — 

How  SILK  is  MADE       ...  92 

THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  SILK 94. 

CHAPTER  VII. 
SIXTH  GRADE  WORK. 

Preliminary  Remarks.  —  Cutting  garments  without  chart.  — Little  fitting  needed.  — 

Taking  the  measures  and  drafting  the  patterns 96 

Child's  Underwaist. —  Taking   the   measures.  —  The  parallelogram. — Drafting  the 

pattern.  —  Cutting  the  pattern  and  the  waist 97 

Underskirt  with  Shoulder  Straps  or  Waist — The  measures.— The  materials  used.— 

Putting  together  and  making 103 

Questions  for  Review 105 

Materials  and  their  31anufacture  — 

HOSIERY 106 

FELT 107 

PRINTED  FABRICS 108 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
SEVENTH  GRADE  WORK. 

Preliminary  Remarks.  — The  setting  of  a  patch.  — Ease  with  which  perfect  work  is 

accomplished 109 

The  Gingham  Patch — Size  of  model.  —  Cutting  and  setting  of  the  first  patch.  —The 
second  patch.  —  The  third  patch.  —  The  fourth  patch.  —  The  fifth  patch.  —  The 
sixth  patch 109 

Child's  Dress.  —  The  waist  and  skirt.  —  The  sleeve.  —  Measures,  drafting  and  cutting. — 

Putting  together  and  making 115 

Boy's  Blouse  Waist  and  Kilt  Skirt.  — The  measures  and  drafting.  —The  sleeve.  — 

The  skirt. — Putting  together  and  making 118 


8  CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Knee  Trousers.  —  The  measurements.  —  Drafting  the  pattern.     Cutting.  —  Making.  — 

Pressing  and  sponging 119 

Questions  for  Review 125 

Materials  and  their  Manufacture  — 

NEEDLES 126 

EMERY '    .  127 

PINS 128 

CHAPTER  IX. 
EIGHTH  GRADE  WORK. 

Preliminary  Remarks.  —  The  graduating  dress.  —  Other  work  of  the  grade         .        .      131 

The  Linen  Patch.  —  Quantity  of   material.  —  Preparing   the   model.  —  Setting  the 

patches.  —  The  loop.  —  The  eyelets  and  initials 132 

Infant's  Outfit.  —  The  flannel  band.  —  The  shirt.  —  The  pinning  blanket.  —  The  flan- 
nel skirt.  —  The  cambric  skirt.  —  The  wrapper.  —  The  sack.  —  The  dress       .        .      135 

Girl's  Waist.  —  The  measures.  —  Drafting.  —  Cutting .143 

The  Sleeve,  Skirt,  and  Review  Work.  —  Drafting  and  cutting  of  the  sleeve.  —  The 

skirt.  —  Last  work  of  the  grade 148 

Questions  for  Review 149 

Materials  and  their  Manufacture  — 

SPINNING  AND  WEAVING       „  .  150 


INTRODUCTION. 


THE  system  of  instruction  set  forth  in  this  book  makes  sewing  and 
garment  cutting  an  educational  factor  identical  with  manual  training. 
It  has  been  the  primary  aim  of  the  authors  to  lead  the  pupils  to  think 
independently,  coordinately,  and  constructively.  To  this  end  the  reason 
for  each  step  in  the  course  of  instruction  has  been  set  forth  explicitly, 
and  the  teacher  is  urged  to  make  these  reasons  plain  to  the  pupils, 
that  they  may  work  from  intelligent  conviction,  and  not  mechanically. 
To  fail  in  this  is  to  defeat  the  first  and  most  important  aim  of  the  sys- 
tem, which  is  founded  not  only  upon  broad  educational  principles,  but 
upon  mathematical  verities. 

The  entire  system  is  based  upon  the  square  and  the  parallelogram, 
and  in  this  respect  the  sewing  is  coordinate  with  the  garment  cutting. 
The  system  of  cutting,  which  is  without  chart  or  other  guide  than 
simple,  easily  comprehended  mathematical  principles,  is  original  with 
Miss  Louise  M.  Heller.  For  six  years  Miss  Heller  has  been  connected  with 
the  department  of  sewing  and  garment  cutting  in  the  Chicago  Jewish 
Manual  Training-School ;  and  this  system,  which  is  now  for  the  first 
time  given  to  the  public,  has  been  thoroughly  tested  in  that  institution. 

It  is  Huxley  who  claims  that  that  person  is  liberally  educated  who 
has  been  so  trained  that  his  body  is  the  ready  servant  of  his  will,  and 
does  with  ease  and  pleasure  all  the  work  which,  as  a  mechanism,  it  is 
capable  of  doing.  That  the  system  which  is  clearly  explained  in  the 
following  pages  is  a  valuable  factor  in  obtaining  this  result,  has  been 
abundantly  proved  in  the  school  Avhere  it  has  been  tested.  In  this  in- 
stitution it  is  not  the  aim  of  the  course  to  graduate  proficient  seam- 


10  INTRODUCTION. 


stresses,  but  rather  to  so  educate  pupils  that  they  may  be  able  to  make 
the  most  of  themselves  in  any  one  of  many  lines  into  which  opportunity 
and  their  capacity  may  lead  them.  It  is  a  fact  that  perfect  drafting  and 
the  most  satisfactory  needlework  are  done  with  the  greatest  ease  by 
those  pupils  who  have  taken  the  course  of  sewing  and  garment  cutting. 
It  is  a  matter  of  daily,  nay,  of  hourly,  experience  in  this  school  that 
a  girl  of  ten  years  takes  the  measures  and  drafts  in  five  minutes  the 
pattern  of  a  perfectly  fitting  dress  waist  for  a  child.  Other  garments  are 
drafted  and  cut  with  equal  ease  by  the  aid  of  this  system. 

The  counting  of  threads,  the  accurate  measurements  required,  the 
precision  in  the  matter  of  darning,  and  all  else  that  pertains  to  the 
work  of  the  course,  may  seem  to  the  superficial  observer  an  unnecessary 
expenditure  of  time  and  effort;  but  let  it  be  borne  in  mind  that  the 
first  aim  of  the  system  is  to  enable  the  child  to  see  correctly,  to  use 
what  she  sees  with  facility,  and  to  make  her  hand  the  ready  servant  of 
her  will.  More  than  this,  it  is  easy  to  demonstrate  that,  when  the 
habit  of  executing  the  commonest  task  in  the  best  way  is  established, 
the  work  can  be  done  with  no  greater  expenditure  of  time  and  effort 
than  is  employed  in  doing  it  in  the  least  skillful  manner. 

In  all  lines,  the  artistic,  which  until  recently  has  been  appropriated 
by  exclusive  classes,  is  now  being  incorporated  into  the  common  every- 
day life  of  the  people,  and  the  work  of  the  needle  should  be  no  excep- 
tion. Knowledge  alone  is  required  to  accomplish  this ;  for  the  skillful 
use  of  common  materials,  which  are  among  daily  necessities,  renders  the 
work  of  the  needle  truly  artistic. 

The  stories  of  materials  and  their  uses,  which  follow  the  outline  of 
work  for  each  grade,  are  not  a  part  of  the  course.  They  can  be  used  or 
not  at  the  discretion  of  the  teacher,  and  must  be  adapted  by  her  to  the 
pupils  she  is  instructing.  All  that  has  been  attempted  is  to  give  a  general 
idea  of  the  different  subjects  in  a  form  suited,  as  far  as  possible,  to  the 
capacity  of  the  children  of  the  respective  grades. 

It  may  seem  that,  as  the  utmost  precision  is  required  at  every  step, 


INTRODUCTION.  11 


from  the  beginning  to  the  end  of  the  course,  the  creative  faculty  in  the 
child  is  not  sufficiently  encouraged  ;  but  let  it  be  remembered  that  when 
principles  are  thoroughly  mastered,  the  worker  is  made  free.  The  small 
squares  of  the  canvas  of  the  first  models  represent  the  regular  stitch ; 
and  having  mastered  this,  the  pupil  is  enabled  to  work  with  ease  along 
correct  lines.  It  is  one  thing  to  create,  and  quite  another  thing  to  pro- 
duce, that  which  is  of  value  ;  and  it  is  only  when  those  principles  which 
exist  in  the  nature  of  things  are  recognized  and  obeyed  that  real  excel- 
lence is  achieved. 

It  is  true  that  the  child  is  required  to  do  certain  given  tasks  in  a 
certain  way ;  but  she  has  no  set  pattern,  and  really  designs  each  model 
without  assistance  save  direction  from  the  teacher.  The  working  out 
of  the  different  designs  in  this  way  establishes  in  the  pupil's  mind  that 
most  valuable  of  possessions,  a  correct  ideal. 

It  will  be  observed  that  there  is  no  sewing  up  and  down  through 
cards  perforated  in  formal  designs,  for  this  kind  of  work  is  of  very  little 
practical  value ;  it  is  mechanical,  and  in  doing  it  the  child  acquires 
habits  which  must  be  overcome  later. 

It  is  an  axiom  of  modern  pedagogics  that  no  portion  of  that  fine 
and  complex  instrument,  the  human  body,  should  be  neglected ;  and, 
keeping  this  in  mind,  the  authors  have  taken  many  things  into  account 
in  putting  forth  their  system.  Throughout  the  course  the  appeal  is 
made,  not  to  the  pupil's  memory,  but  to  her  understanding.  Although 
but  forty  minutes  twice  a  week  are  devoted  to  the  work,  it  has  been 
found  that  this  course  invariably  stimulates  the  reasoning  faculties,  and 
brings  into  action  powers  of  the  mind  previously  dormant. 

While  Scientific  Sewing  and  Grarment  Cutting  is  arranged  as  a  text- 
book for  schools,  it  is  also  a  valuable  manual  for  the  home  circle. 
Whether  used  as  a  guide  in  cutting  and  making  garments  for  chil- 
dren, or  in  teaching  children  to  sew,  or  as  a  handbook  containing  much 
useful  and  interesting  general  information,  it  is  one  that  every  mother 
of  a  family  will  find  of  value. 


12  INTRODUCTION. 


CLOTHING   AND    ITS    USES. 

There  is  no  authentic  history  of  the  beginning  of  sewing,  neither 
is  there  any  detailed  account  of  the  various  stages  of  clothing,  although 
it  is  certain  that  the  skins  of  beasts  take  precedence  of  all  other  mate- 
rial as  wearing  apparel.  Skins  furnished  the  winter  garb  of  the  Briton, 
and  supplied  the  covering  of  the  wild  tribesmen  that  followed  the  hosts 
of  Xerxes  in  his  expeditions  against  Hellas.  From  those  remote  times 
until  the  present,  the  skins  of  animals  have  been  used  in  various  ways 
by  all  classes  and  conditions  of  men  for  garments. 

The  garments  of  skins  worn  by  people  in  very  cold  countries  are 
made  to  fit  snugly ;  for  not  only  must  the  cold  be  kept  out,  but  the  nat- 
ural warmth  of  the  body  must  be  retained.  The  human  body  is  like  a 
stove  with  a  fire  in  it;  it  constantly  generates  heat,  and  in  climates 
where  it  is  very  cold  it  is  important  to  conserve  this  heat.  On  the  other 
hand,  in  very  warm  countries  it  is  desirable  to  wear  clothing  which  per- 
mits the  heat  of  the  body  to  escape.  For  this  reason  loose,  flowing  gar- 
ments of  linen,  silk,  or  cotton  are  worn  in  tropical  lands,  as  the  wide 
trousers  of  the  Turks  and  Persians,  and  the  unconfiiied  robes  worn  by 
other  people  of  Central  and  Southern  Asia. 

In  countries  where  it  is  either  very  warm  or  very  cold  most  of  the 
time,  the  same  form  of  garment  is  worn  year  after  year.  Where  the 
temperature  is  constantly  changing,  as  in  the  temperate  zone,  the  style 
of  clothing  is  also  subject  to  frequent  change  ;  and  these  varying  modes 
constitute  what  is  called  "  fashion." 

While  the  primary  use  of  clothes  is  to  afford  protection  from  the 
heat  and  cold,  they  should  be  made  and  worn  with  a  view  to  pleasing 
the  eye.  It  is  essential,  therefore,  that  they  be  carefully  cut  and  neatly 
made,  and  they  should  be  kept  clean  and  in  good  order. 

If  for  no  other  reason  than  because  so  much  time  and  skill  are 
represented  in  our  clothing,  AVC  should  take  good  care  of  it.  Each  gar- 
ment we  wear  represents  the  work  of  several  wonderful  machines  and 


INTRODUCTION.  13 


a  great  deal  of  skillful  labor.  There  are  no  more  important  industries 
than  those  which  are  connected  with  the  making  of  clothes.  In  the 
article  on  spinning  and  weaving  are  illustrations  showing  some  of  the 
machinery  which  has  been  invented  for  weaving  cloth.  The  other  arti- 
cles on  the  various  materials  of  the  sewing  room  give  further  data  show- 
ing how  much  of  the  work  of  the  world  is  devoted  to  the  manufacture 
of  clothing. 

COLOR. 

Color  is  an  important  subject.  The  author  will  only  attempt  to 
present  a  few  facts  in  regard  to  it,  which  are  expressly  relevant  to  the 
topics  treated  in  this  manual. 

Beauty  in  the  outer  world  is  of  two  kinds,  harmony  of  form,  and 
harmony  of  color.  These  qualities  when  combined  enhance  each  other 
and  should  always  be  associated.  A  perfectly  formed  garment  is  far 
from  beautiful  if  the  colors  are  discordant.  The  most  perfect  coloring 
cannot  render  a  badly  proportioned  garment  attractive.  Therefore, 
although  the  child  may  be  able,  through  the  system  set  forth  in  this 
book,  to  cut  and  make  perfectly  fitting  clothing,  if  harmony  of  color 
is  disregarded,  her  work  will  be  seriously  defective.  More  than  this,  a 
study  of  color  is  one  of  the  best  means  for  cultivating  the  perceptive 
faculties. 

Starting  with  the  three  primary  colors,  yellow,  red,  and  blue,  the 
relative  value  of  each  should  be  explained.  Yellow  makes  a  quicker 
impression  on  the  eye  than  either  of  the  other  primary  colors.  Red  is 
the  most  perfect  color,  because  it  has  an  equal  relation  to  light  and 
shade.  Blue  is  the  most  nearly  related  to  shade,  and  is  much  slower 
in  reaching  the  eye  than  either  red  or  yellow. 

The  secondary  colors,  orange,  green,  and  purple,  are  formed  from 
the  primary  colors.  Orange,  which  is  particularly  strong  and  aggres- 
sive, is  formed  from  red  and  yellow,  the  two  strongest  of  the  primary 
colors.  Green  is  formed  of  yellow,  which  is  most  closely  allied  to 


14  INTRODUCTION. 


light,  and  blue,  which  is  the  nearest  to  shadow,  of  the  three  primary 
colors.  It  is  the  most  neutral  and  the  softest  of  the  three  secondary 
colors,  and,  of  all  decided  tints,  is  the  most  agreeable  to  the  eye.  It  is 
a  demonstration  of  infinite  wisdom  that  the  vegetable  world  is  clothed 
in  green ;  since  it  counteracts  the  intense  reflection  of  the  sun's 
rays,  and  refreshes  the  eye  by  its  soft  and  soothing  influence.  Purple 
is  a  union  of  blue  and  red,  and  is  a  rich  and  somber  color.  It  was 
greatly  valued  by  the  Romans.  A  border  of  purple  on  their  white  gar- 
ments denoted  rank.  Purple  was  Caesar's  color.  It  was  made  from 
the  Tyrian  shellfish,  and  was  really  a  very  ugly  hue  as  compared  to 
the  beautiful,  rich  purple  of  the  present  day ;  but  a  little  touch  of  it 
signified  so  much  to  the  Roman  that  he  valued  it  highly,  and  the  shell- 
fish of  which  it  was  made  became  an  important  commercial  commodity. 

With  advanced  classes  it  is  desirable  to  explain  the  solar  or  pris- 
matic spectrum,  and  how  its  discovery  by  Sir  Isaac  Newton  established 
the  scientific  theory  of  color.  He  made  the  discovery  by  making  an 
opening,  a  third  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  in  the  window  shutter  of  a 
darkened  room,  behind  which  he  placed  a  prism  so  that  a  ray  of  the 
sun's  light  might  enter  and  leave  it  at  equal  angles.  In  this  way  it 
was  found  that  the  ray  of  light  was  refracted  in  an  oblong  form,  and 
was  composed  of  seven  different  colors  of  great  brilliancy,  —  violet, 
indigo,  blue,  green,  yellow,  orange,  and  red.  These  colors,  when  im- 
perceptibly blended  together,  form  what  is  known  as  white  light. 

In  arranging  color  harmony,  the  first  step  is  to  fix  on  some  particu- 
lar tone  or  key.  If,  for  instance,  a  cool  green,  or  gray,  or  blue  which 
as  we  have  seen  is  the  most  quiet  and  shadowy  of  the  primary  colors, 
is  to  prevail,  the  general  tone  of  all  the  colors  must  be  cool  and  sub- 
dued. If,  on  the  other  hand  red,  orange,  brown,  yellow,  or  a  warm 
tint  of  green  be  used  as  the  key  or  prevailing  color,  the  tone  of  all  the 
colors  used  with  it  must  be  warm.  Having  decided  upon  the  scheme 
of  color,  whether  brilliant  or  subdued,  warm  or  cool,  light  or  dark,  let 
it  be  remembered  that  all  the  beauty  of  nature's  coloring  arises  from 


INTRODUCTION.  15 


contrast,  and  that  there  can  be  no  pleasing  combination  of  tints  without 
variety.  Still,  the  contrasts  must  not  be  violent,  neither  must  variety 
include  those  combinations  which  are  at  variance  with  the  general  color 
scheme  or  keynote. 

In  arranging  a  variety  of  tints  in  such  a  way  as  to  present  a  pleas- 
ing and  harmonious  whole,  there  are  certain  strong  colors  which  must 
always  be  used  with  discretion.  This  is  true  of  red,  which  is  so  positive 
and  obtrusive  that  it  must  be  very  carefully  managed  and  toned.  The 
same  is  true  of  yellow,  which  is  much  more  beautiful  in  small  quantities 
than  in  masses.  Black,  which  is  the  absence  of  the  three  primary  colors, 
must  also  be  used  with  discrimination.  It  can  be  used  in  large  quanti- 
ties only  in  cool  and  somber  schemes  of  color.  There  is  really  nothing 
in  the  whole  chromatic  series  of  color  more  difficult  to  manage  success- 
fully than  black  and  its  contrasting  hue  white.  In  using  black,  it 
should  be  surrounded  and  mellowed  by  deep  hues,  while  white  should 
be  introduced  by  a  gradation  of  the  lightest  tints  ;  this,  in  each  instance, 
prevents  a  harsh  and  unpleasant  effect.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  white  and  black  are  not  colors,  but  modifiers  of  color.  White 
stands  at  the  beginning  and  black  at  the  end  of  the  chromatic  scale  of 
colors,  but  neither  the  one  nor  the  other  is  of  it. 

Some  idea  of  the  primary  colors  should  be  given  the  pupils  while 
they  are  at  work  upon  the  first  model.  If  some  of  the  models  are  done  in 
yellow,  others  in  red,  and  still  others  in  blue,  it  will  be  easy  for  the  teacher 
to  impress  upon  the  children  which  are  the  primary  colors.  In  the 
second  model,  the  three  secondary  colors  may  be  combined.  If  it  is  not 
possible  to  get  these  colors  in  Saxony  yarn,  as  sometimes  happens,  the 
pupils  should  be  taught  what  the  primary  and  secondary  colors  are,  and 
should  bring  to  the  classroom  examples  of  as  many  of  these  colors  as 
possible.  Flowers  should  be  brought  in  their  season,  that  the  different 
color  mixtures  in  them  may  be  studied.  It  is  also  desirable  to  discuss 
colors  in  the  different  fabrics  of  their  clothes,  and  in  such  bits  of  finely 
colored  silk  or  ribbon  as  it  may  be  possible  to  show  them. 


16  INTRODUCTION. 


To  lead  the  children  to  think  about  color,  and  to  be  interested  in  its 
various  relations  of  contrast  and  harmony  as  found  in  nature,  is  to  put 
them  in  the  way  of  arriving  at  correct  conclusions.  To  enable  the 
teacher  to  do  this  is  all  that  has  been  attempted  in  this  brief  outline  of 
first  principles.  While  it  would  be  futile,  in  this  connection,  to  give  the 
rules  which  govern  the  numerous  differentiations  of  color,  the  following 
includes  certain  principles  which  are  simple  and  basic.  By  uniting  two 
primary  colors,  the  nature  of  both  is  altered,  and  a  compound  color  is 
the  result.  As  there  are  but  three  primary  colors  in  the  scale,  the  two 
which  are  united  form  a  contrast  to  the  remaining  primary  color.  There- 
fore, to  reduce  the  intensity  of  a  primary  color,  mix  with  it  a  certain 
portion  of  the  color  produced  by  the  union  of  the  other  two  primaries. 
A  simple  or  primary  color  thus  modified  retains,  to  a  certain  extent,  its 
nature  and  characteristic  qualities,  although  subdued  and  modified  suffi- 
ciently to  render  it  more  capable  of  harmony  with  other  colors.  Illus- 
trations of  the  results  of  these  combinations  may  be  found  in  the  feathers 
of  birds,  in  the  tints  of  the  human  face,  eyes,  and  hair,  and  in  the  vege- 
table kingdom. 


SCIENTIFIC  SEWING  AND  GARMENT  CUTTING. 


CHAPTER   I. 

OUTFIT    FOR    SEWING    DEPARTMENT. 

WHILE  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  the  outfit  for  a  sewing  depart- 
ment be  complete,  it  may  be  very  simple  and  inexpensive.  The  one 
described  is  of  this  character.  It  is  adequate  for  a  class  of  from  thirty- 
five  to  forty  children.  As  a  rule,  less  than  an  hour  twice  a  week  is 
devoted  to  sewing,  therefore  this  outfit  is  sufficient  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  between  one  hundred  and  two  hundred  pupils. 

The  low,  folding  sewing 
table,  with  one  side  laid  off  in 
inches  and  parts  of  inches,  is 
used  as  a  desk.  The  cost  of 
these  tables  is  not  more  than 
sixty  cents  each.  Four  pupils 
can  use  one  table. 

The  chairs  should  be  of 
different  heights,  in  order  that 
the  children  may  all  be  able  to 
rest  their  feet  on  the  floor. 

The  case  in  which  the  work 
and  materials  are  kept  (which  sewing  Case. 

is  illustrated),  is  simply  a  series  of  nine  shelves,  arranged  between  two 
standards  four  and  one-half  feet  high,  placed  against  the  wall.  Arranged 
in  tiers  of  seven  on  each  shelf,  are  strong  pasteboard  boxes,  furnished 

17 


18 


SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT  CUTTING. 


with  small  brass  rings,  so  that  they  can  be  drawn  out  with  ease.  Each 
box  is  twelve  inches  long  by  eight  wide,  and  is  five  inches  deep.  On  the 
front  part,  beneath  the  ring,  is  pasted  a  slip  of  paper  bearing  the  name 
of  the  pupil  whose  work  is  placed  in  the  box.  On  the  top  of  this  case 
is  a  tier  of  six  wooden  boxes  in  which  the  various 
wools,  threads,  strips  of  canvas,  and  other  small 
things  used  in  the  department,  are  kept. 

The  little  models  of  the  first  and  second 
grades  are  kept  in  two  or  three  large  boxes,  the 
name  of  the  pupil  being  written  on  a  slip  of  paper, 
and  pinned  to  each  model.  When  the  pupil  reaches 
the  third  grade,  she  is  given  a  separate  box  for  her  work. 
The  scissors  case  is  a  piece  of  cloth  sixteen  inches 
long  and  eleven  wide,  on  which  is  stitched  a  strip  that, 
after  it  is  hemmed  across  its  length  on  one  side,  is  seven 
inches  wide  and  eighteen  long.  This  piece  is  divided 
into  twelve  parts,  and  after  being  basted,  is  stitched 
down  the  width  so  that  twelve  little  pockets  are  formed. 
The  fullness  -which  forms  these  pockets  is  laid  in  plaits 
along  the  bottom  of  the  case.  The  bottom  and  sides 
are  bound  with  an  inch-wide  strip  which,  when  fin- 
ished, forms  a  half-inch  binding.  The  top  of  the  case 
is  hemmed,  and  finished  with  three  linen-tape  loops. 

The  spool  cases  can  be  made  by  the  teacher.  This 
case  is  simply  a  piece  of  morocco,  oilcloth,  stiff  brown 
linen,  or  any  substantial  material  desired  ;  in  size  eight 
and  one-half  inches  long,  four  inches  wide  at  one  end, 
and  three  at  the  other.  Cut  the  edges  into  seven  shallow  scallops  a 
trifle  smaller  at  the  narrow  than  at  the  wider  end.  Baste  in  the  cen- 
ter of  this  piece  a  strip  of  cardboard  eight  and  one-half  inches  long, 
two  and  one-fourth  inches  at  one  end,  and  one  and  three-eighths  at  the 
other.  Cut  a  silk  lining,  baste  carefully,  and  bind  about  the  edges  with 


Spool  Case. 


OUTFIT  FOR   SEWING  DEPARTMENT.  19 

black  tape.  Put  an  eyelet  in  the  center  of  each  scallop  on  both  sides  ; 
these  may  be  worked,  or  metal  ones  may  be  used.  Double  a  black 
silk  or  linen  lacing,  and,  beginning  at  the  large  end  with  a  spool  of 
thirty-six  white  thread,  put  it  through  one  eyelet,  then  the  spool,  and 
then  the  other  eyelet,  bringing  up  the  sides  of  the  case  to  the  spool. 
Next  put  in  a  spool  of  No.  40  thread  in  the  same  way  ;  continue  to  put 
in  each  time  a  finer  thread  until  the  case  is  filled,  then  tie  at  the  end. 
The  spools  revolve  on  the  lacing,  and  the  thread  is  kept  clean,  and 
prevented  from  tangling. 

There  should  be  a  swinging  blackboard  in  the  sewing  room,  one 
side  of  which  is  laid  off  in  inch  squares,  to  be  used  by  the  teacher  in 
the  drafting.  Blackboard  demonstrations  are  very  essential,  and  a  board 
laid  off  in  this  way  makes  the  objective  lessons  perfectly  clear. 

There  should  be  a  large  table  for  the  teacher's  use,  and  a  smooth 
board  fifteen  feet  long  and  about  two  feet  wide  to  lay  on  two  of  the 
small  tables  to  form  a  cutting  table  for  the  pupils.  This  board  has 
been  found  to  be  a  most  satisfactory  arrangement ;  as  it  is  the  right 
height,  the  pupils  can  get  around  it  easily,  and  it  can  be  laid  against 
the  side  of  the  room  when  it  is  not  in  use,  and  be  quite  out  of  the  way. 

There  should  be  thimbles  and  needles,  tape  measures  and  rulers. 
The  needles  should  always  be  of  the  best.  The  best  thimble  for  ordi- 
nary use  is  of  aluminium,  as  it  is  light,  does  not  discolor  the  finger,  and 
always  looks  bright  and  attractive.  A  large  assortment  of  thimbles 
should  be  provided,  as  in  every  instance  the  thimble  should  fit  the 
finger  perfectly. 

There  are  four  kinds  of  canvas  used,  so  arranged  that  the  pupil  is 
gradually  brought  from  doing  perfect  work  on  very  coarse  materials  to 
doing  the  same  work  on  garment  fabrics.  The  first  material  is  the 
double-threaded  Penelope  canvas,  which  does  not  strain  the  unaccus- 
tomed eyes  of  the  child.  As  this  is  not  used  in  large  quantities,  a  small 
amount  is  all  that  is  required. 

The  next  material  is  Java  canvas,  also  double-threaded,  and  a  trifle 


20  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING   AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 

more  closely  woven  than  the  first,  of  which  more  is  required,  as  the  model 
is  larger.  The  next  canvas  required  is  No.  1  Ada  canvas,  which  is  used 
for  the  darning.  About  the  same  amount  of  this  is  needed  as  of  the  Java 
canvas.  More  than  double  the  amount  of  No.  2  Ada  canvas  is  needed 
than  of  No.  1,  as  the  model  of  this  is  the  largest  of  the  canvas  models. 

The  first  garment  fabric  used  is  a  quarter-inch  checked  domestic 
gingham,  either  brown  or  blue.  Unbleached  cotton  cloth  is  not  used 
in  this  course,  as  it  has  been  found  that  it  is  not  only  the  most  difficult 
material  for  children  to  work  on  successfully,  but  it  soils  easily,  and,  at 
best,  is  unattractive  when  finished. 

The  materials  used  in  the  advanced  grades  are  good  Lonsdale  mus- 
lin, cambric,  coarse  and  fine  linen,  and  a  good  quality  of  flannel.  There 
should  be  two  cupboards  in  which  to  keep  these  materials  and  the  partly 
finished  garments.  A  few  yards  of  cheap  calico  should  be  provided  to 
lay  under  the  materials  as  they  are  placed  on  the  shelves,  and  to  bring 
up  over  them,  that  they  may  be  kept  in  perfect  condition. 

A  good  sewing-machine  is  a  necessity  in  the  advance  grades.  The 
outfit  can  of  course  be  as  expensive  and  elaborate  as  is  desired ;  but  the 
very  simple  provisions  described  will  serve  to  indicate  what  is  necessary, 
whether  it  be  simple  and  inexpensive,  or  elaborate  and  costly.  The  ex- 
pense of  an  outfit  of  course  depends  wholly  on  what  is  selected.  The 
cost  of  materials  used  in  a  sewing  department,  which  in  each  instance 
must  be  of  the  kind  and  quality  called  for,  is  about  one  dollar  per  capita 
for  each  grade,  averaging  the  whole  course. 

While  not  an  absolute  necessity,  it  is  most  desirable  to  have  a  doll 
as  large  as  a  small  child  in  the  outfit  of  the  sewing  department.  By 
having  a  lay  figure  of  this  sort  always  at  hand,  the  pupils  can  be  taught 
to  use  the  system  of  cutting,  when  the  regular  work  of  the  grade  is  com- 
pleted, and  to  draft  all  sorts  of  little  garments  worn  by  children.  More 
than  this,  to  make  clothes  for  a  big,  beautiful  doll  is  always  a  privilege 
highly  appreciated ;  and  the  prospect  of  being  permitted  to  make  such 
garments  is  to  most  pupils  a  strong  stimulus  to  attentive  industry. 


FIRST   GRADE   WORK.  21 


CHAPTER   II. 
FIRST    GRADE    WORK 

PRELIMINARY  REMARKS. 

THE  work  of  this  grade  usually  occupies  between  five  and  six 
months.  It  is  intended  for  children  of  from  six  to  seven  years  of  age, 
although  it  has  been  found  equally  valuable  for  beginners  in  sewing  of 
any  age. 

As  this  grade  lays  the  foundation  of  the  entire  course,  it  is  most 
important  that  everything  in  connection  with  it  should  be  very  carefully 
considered.  It  is  especially  true  in  this  system  of  sewing,  that  the  value 
of  forming  correct  habits  in  the  beginning  cannot  be  overestimated. 

The  first  thing  to  be  impressed  upon  the  children  is  that  their  hands 
must  be  perfectly  clean  before  beginning  to  sew,  and  this  point  should 
be  carefully  looked  after  by  the  teacher.  The  pupils  should  be  seated 
so  that  the  feet  may  rest  easily  on  the  floor.  They  should  sit  erect, 
with  the  lower  part  of  the  spine  against  the  back  of  the  chair,  in  such 
a  position  that  the  lungs  are  not  cramped,  and  that  the  arms  can  be 
used  with  ease,  as  in  the  illustration. 

It  is  important  that  the  pupils  of  the  first  grade  realize  how  their 
work  is  related  to  that  of  more  advanced  grades.  The  teacher  should 
call  their  attention  to  the  illustrations  of  completed  garments,  the 
dressed  doll,  and  other  attractive  work.  They  should  be  assured  that 
when  they  have  learned  thoroughly  how  to  do  the  work  of  the  successive 
grades,  they  will  be  able  to  make  all  the  garments  shown  in  the  models 
and  many  besides,  and  will  be  competent  to  make  clothes  not  only  for 
themselves,  but  for  others  in  the  family. 


22  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


Correct  Position  in  Seivina. 


FIRST   GRADE   WORK.  23 


In  all  kinds  of  work  there  are  certain  rules  which  must  be  followed 
to  insure  its  successful  accomplishment.  In  this  case  these  rules  are 
represented  by  the  squares  of  the  canvas,  within  which  the  stitches 
must  be  taken  in  order  that  they  may  be  perfectly  regular,  and  by  the 
precision  required  in  the  slant  of  the  stitches  and  the  drawing  of  the 
thread.  Since  these  are  basic  principles,  which,  when  acquired,  enable 
the  children  to  create  that  which  is  excellent,  they  must  be  strenuously 
insisted  upon. 

As  soon  as  the  children  have  learned  how  to  hold  the  needle  and  to 
take  stitches,  which  is  usually  accomplished  in  two  lessons,  they  should 
be  taught  to  sew  buttons  onto  a  piece  of  cloth  of  two  thicknesses. 
They  should  then  be  held  responsible  for  keeping  the  buttons  on  their 
clothing,  and  encouraged  to  perform  the  same  service  for  the  different 
members  of  their  family.  They  should  be  led  to  have  a  wholesome 
pride  in  neat  personal  appearance,  and  the  value  of  their  clothes  should 
be  impressed  upon  them  by  means  of  interesting  facts  concerning  their 
texture  and  manufacture. 


THE  FIRST  MODEL. 

The  first  model  is  a  piece  of  Penelope  canvas  five  inches  long  and 
four  inches  wide.  The  double-thread  canvas  should  be  used. 

When  the  needles  are  placed  in  the  pupils'  hands,  it  should  be  ex- 
plained that  if  the  hands  are  not  clean  the  needle  becomes  rough,  and 
that  no  one  can  sew  well  with  a  rough  needle,  or  when  the  material  on 
which  it  is  used  is  soiled.  Explanations  of  this  sort  should  be  made 
as  often  as  possible  in  order  that  the  pupils  may  work  intelligently  and 
not  mechanically.  The  first  needle  used  should  be  a  long-eyed  and 
dull-pointed  chenille  needle.  There  are  three  reasons  why  a  beginner 
should  have  this  sort  of  a  needle :  first,  because  it  is  a  strain  on  the 
unaccustomed  eyes  of  a  child  to  attempt  to  thread  a  small-eyed  needle; 
second,  because  often  the  child  cannot  thread  it  without  assistance,  and 


24 


SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


F/>st 


FIRST   GRADE   WORK. 


25 


it  is  most  desirable  to  have  her  work  independently  from  the  first; 
third,  because  an  ordinary  sharp-pointed  needle  is  likely  to  prick  the 
fingers  of  an  untrained  worker. 

The  thimble  should  be  of  gold,  sil- 
ver, or  aluminium,  the  latter  being  the 
best  cheap  material  for  common  use. 

It  should  be  explained  that  the 
thimble  is  placed  on  the  second  finger 
because  it  is  stronger  and  longer,  and 
more  conveniently  situated  than  the 
others  for  pushing  the  needle  through 
the  fabric. 

The  very  best  needles  should  be 
used,  and  an  emery  must  be  constantly 
at  hand  to  keep  them  perfectly  smooth. 

The  thread  used  in  sewing  should 
be  just  as  long  as  the  arm  of  the  one 
who  is  using  it. 

It  should  be  explained  that  the 
work  is  usually  done  from  right  to  left,  and  is  begun  with  a  backstitch 
and  without  knotting  the  thread.  It  has  been  found  by  repeated  ex- 
periments that  a  knot  in  the  end  of  the  thread  is  not  a  necessity  until 
the  pupil  reaches  the  fourth  grade,  and  it  is  better  that  it  should  not 
be  used  until  the  necessity  arises.  In  this  connection  let  it  be  remem- 
bered that  this  course  of  sewing  is  progressive,  and  has  been  arranged 
in  all  its  details  with  reference  to  the  general  plan  of  unfoldment  as 
advocated  by  Froebel  and  other  great  educators. 

The  first  thread  used  is  a  good  quality  of  cardinal  red  Saxony  yarn  ; 
and  it  should  be  explained  that  the  proper  way  of  drawing  the  thread 
is  between  the  second  and  third  fingers,  not  only  because  it  is  more 
convenient,  but  for  the  reason  that  it  is  more  graceful. 

It  is  better  that  the  teacher  take  charge  of  all  implements  and  the 


Correct  Way  of  Holding  the  Needie. 


26  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND    GARMENT   CUTTING 

models  used  by  pupils,  until  they  have  passed  the  second  grade,  placing 
them  in  boxes  provided  for  the  purpose. 


BASTING. 

The  first  stitch  of  this  system  of  sewing  is  the  basting  stitch.  It  is 
begun  eight  threads  from  the  top  and  ten  threads  from  the  right-hand 
edge  of  the  model.  In  putting  in  this  stitch,  two  threads  are  taken  up 
and  four  threads  left  under  the  needle  at  each  stitch.  There  are  three 
lines  of  this  basting  across  the  width  of  the  model,  with  two  threads  of 
the  canvas  between  the  lines.  Each  stitch  should  be  taken  with  exact 
precision,  and  the  thread  drawn  in  such  a  way  that  the  model  when 
finished  will  lie  perfectly  smooth.  If  a  mistake  is  made,  in  every  in- 
stance the  work  must  be  at  once  ripped  and  done  anew. 

In  the  very  beginning,  when  the  first  stitches  are  taken,  the  pupils 
should  be  taught  that  the  work  must  be  held  up  towards  the  eyes,  and 
not  the  eyes  brought  down  to  the  work.  Insistence  upon  this  and  upon 
sitting  erect  will  insure  a  correct,  hygienic  position,  which  is  of  the 
utmost  importance.  The  teacher  should  explain  why  these  require- 
ments are  made. 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  first  thing  to  be  done  when  one  is  going  to  sew  ?  Ans.  To 
wash  the  hands  very  clean  and  wipe  them  dry. 

Why  should  this  be  done  ?  Ans.  If  the  hands  are  not  perfectly  clean, 
the  needle  will  become  rough  and  the  work  soiled. 

How  should  one  sit  while  sewing?  Ans.  With  the  feet  flat  on  the 
floor,  and  the  lower  part  of  the  body  as  far  back  as  possible  in  the  chair. 

Why  is  this  the  proper  position  ?  Ans.  It  is  easy  to  sew  when  sitting 
in  this  way,  and  one  does  not  get  tired. 

Why  is  the  thimble  worn  on  the  second  finger  ?  Ans.  It  is  the  central 
and  the  strongest  finger,  and  can  push  the  needle  better  than  any  one  of  the 
others. 


FIRST   GRADE   WORK.  27 

How  long  should  the  thread  be  ?     Ans.    Just  as  long  as  the  arm. 

Should  there  be  a  knot  in  the  thread  ?  Ans.  No ;  take  a  double  stitch 
at  the  beginning  and  the  thread  will  not  draw  out. 

What  is  the  first  stitch  ?     Ans.    The  basting  stitch. 

How  is  it  taken  ?  Ans.  Just  twice  as  much  is  left  as  is  taken  on  the 
needle  at  each  stitch. 

How  should  the  thread  be  drawn  ?  Ans.  So  that  it  is  as  tight  as,  but 
no  tighter  than,  the  threads  of  the  canvas. 

Is  it  necessary  that  basting  be  even  and  the  same  distance  at  all  points 
from  the  edge  of  the  cloth  ?  Ans.  Yes ;  because  it  is  the  guide  by  which 
a  seam  is  sewed. 

How  should  the  thread  be  drawn  in  sewing  ?  Ans.  Always  between 
the  second  and  third  fingers. 

THE  BACKSTITCH. 

The  second  stitch  in  the  first  model  is  the  backstitch.  It  is  well  to 
ask  the  questions  in  regard  to  the  conditions  of  the  hands,  and  the  posi- 
tion to  be  assumed  and  maintained  when  sewing,  at  the  beginning  of 
each  lesson  for  six  or  eight  weeks.  Thus  these  most  important  matters 
will  be  so  impressed  upon  the  minds  of  the  pupils  that  correct  habits 
will  be  formed. 

The  children  should  now  be  taught  to  sew  buttons  onto  a  strip  of 
cloth  folded  double,  and  to  fasten  them  neatly  and  firmly. 

QUESTIONS    AND  ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  stitch  you  are  next  going  to  learn  ?     Ans.    The  backstitch. 

Why  is  it  called  the  backstitch  ?  Ans.  The  needle  is  set  back  each 
stitch  just  as  much  as  it  is  set  forward. 

How  many  threads  are  taken  up  with  each  stitch  ?  Ans.  Two  new 
threads  are  taken  up,  and  the  needle  is  set  back  over  the  two  threads  taken 
up  the  stitch  before. 

How  should  the  thread  be  drawn  ?  Ans.  Very  carefully,  and  not  too 
tightly. 


28  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 

How  far  on  the  model  from  the  last  line  of  basting  is  the  first  row  of 
backstitching  begun  ?  Ans.  Four  threads,  and  ten  threads  from  the  right- 
hand  edge. 

When  is  backstitching  used  ?     Ans.    When  a  strong  seam  is  required. 

How  should  all  stitches  be  taken  ?     Ans.    Evenly  and  regularly. 

How  should  buttons  be  set  on  ?  Ans.  By  sewing  through  the  eyes  of 
the  button  as  many  times  as  the  needle  will  pass  through  easily  ;  then,  fasten 
firmly  on  the  under  side. 

OVERHANDING. 

First  of  all,  have  each  pupil  double  the  model  together  along  the 
third  line  from  the  last  row  of  backstitching.  That  this  may  be  clearly 
understood,  let  the  teacher  fold  a  model  before  the  class.  When  this  is 
done,  explain  that  the  two  sides  of  the  model  represent  two  pieces  of 
cloth.  The  model  having  been  doubled,  let  the  teacher  begin  the  first 
row  by  putting  the  needle  through  tw^o  threads  and  leaving  two,  and 
continue  to  carry  the  thread  over  at  each  stitch.  When  the  first  line 
has  been  completed  correctly,  show  the  pupils  how  to  begin  the  second 
line,  and  let  them  begin  the  third  without  help.  Between  each  line  of 
stitching  there  are  two  threads  of  canvas. 

QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  new  stitch  you  are  going  to  learn  called  ?  Ans.  The  over- 
hand stitch. 

Why  is  it  called  the  overhand  stitch  ?  Ans.  Because  the  thread  is 
put  over  the  edges  of  the  cloth. 

For  what  is  overhanding  used  ?  An-s.  For  sewing  together  the  edges 
of  cloth  when  a  perfectly  flat  seam  is  desired. 

Should  the  thread  be  drawn  tightly  in  overhanding  ?  Ans.  No ;  if  it 
is  drawn  too  tightly  the  seam  is  not  flat,  but  hard  and  round. 

Should  the  thread  be  knotted  before  beginning  to  overhand  ?  AHS. 
No ;  two  stitches,  one  over  the  other,  are  taken  to  keep  the  thread  from 
pulling  out. 


FIRST   GRADE   WORK.  29 

HEMMING. 

As  in  the  preceding  stitches,  after  counting  a  space  of  six  threads 
of  the  canvas,  begin  the  first  line  of  hemming  by  taking  a  slanting 
stitch  of  two  threads,  leave  one  space,  and  take  another  slanting  stitch. 
Call  the  attention  of  the  pupils  to  the  neat  appearance  of  the  even 
Lines,  stitches,  and  spaces,  and  let  them,  as  before,  start  the  third  line 
without  help.  There  is  nothing  more  important  than  a  standard  of 
taste,  and  no  opportunity  should  be  neglected  to  establish  a  correct 
standard.  This  can  be  best  accomplished  by  inciting  admiration  for 
that  which  is  excellent. 

QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  slanting  stitch  we  are  now  learning  called  ?  A ns.  Hem- 
ming. 

For  what  is  hemming  used  ?  Ans.  For  sewing  a  piece  of  cloth  back 
upon  itself. 

Why  is  cloth  turned  back  upon  itself  ?     Ans.    To  finish  the  edge. 

Give  an  illustration.     Ans.    The  bottom  of  an  apron. 

THE  FLANNEL    STITCH. 

Unlike  the  four  preceding  stitches,  the  flannel  stitch  is  worked 
from  left  to  right.  Although  it  will  be  necessary  for  the  teacher  to 
begin  the  first  line,  the  pupil  should  now  be  sufficiently  accustomed  to 
counting  threads  to  count  off  the  six  threads  below  the  last  line  of 
hemming,  and  show  the  teacher  the  point  where  the  first  stitch  should 
be  taken.  After  counting  off  ten  threads  for  the  margin  and  six  threads 
for  the  space  between  the  last  row  of  hemming  and  this  new  stitch, 
take  up  two  threads  from  the  right  to  the  left.  Leave  two  threads 
vertically  down  toward  the  lower  part  of  the  model,  and  two  to  the 
right,  and  take  up  two.  This  makes  a  diagonal  connection  between 
the  two  stitches  slanting  toward  the  right.  Leave  two  threads  verti- 
cally toward  the  top  of  the  model  and  two  to  the  right,  and  take  up 


30  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 

two.  This  again  makes  a  diagonal  connection  between  the  two  stitches 
also  slanting  toward  the  right.  Continue  this,  and  the  result  is  a  pretty, 
vine-like  stitch  which,  although  it  may  seem  a  trifle  difficult  at  first,  can 
be  done,  after  very  little  practice,  by  children  from  six  to  eight  years 
of  age. 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  fifth  stitcli  on  the  model  called  ?     Ans.    The  flannel  stitch. 

Why  has  it  been  given  this  name  ?  Ans.  Because  it  is  mostly  used  on 
flannels. 

In  what  way  is  it  different  from  stitches  already  done  in  this  model? 
Ans.  It  is  begun  at  the  left-hand  side  instead  of  the  right,  and  is  worked 
from  left  to  right. 

How  much  space  is  left  between  the  lines  of  the  flannel  stitch  ?  Ans. 
Four  threads  of  the  canvas. 

BLANKET  STITCH. 

Six  threads  from  the  flannel  stitch  and  ten  threads  from  .the  left- 
hand  edge  of  the  model,  begin  the  blanket  stitch  by  taking  up  on  the 
needle  four  threads  of  the  canvas  vertically,  keeping  the  thread  under 
the  needle  to  form  a  loop.  Two  threads  to  the  right  of  the  first  stitch 
take  another  in  every  way  similar,  and  so  continue  across  the  width 
of  the  model.  The  first  stitch  should  be  taken  as  a  backstitch  to 
hold  the  thread  firm,  as  no  knot  is  used. 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  last  stitch  on  the  model  called  ?     Ans.    Blanket  stitch. 

Why  is  it  given  this  name  ?  Ans.  Because  it  is  used  for  finishing  the 
edge  of  blankets  and  other  things  which  are  too  thick  to  hem. 

How  is  the  blanket  stitch  begun  ?  Ans.  At  the  left-hand  side  of  the 
model  with  a  backstitch. 

How  is  the  stitch  taken  ?  Ans.  Ten  threads  from  the  left-hand  edge 
of  the  model,  and  six  threads  from  the  last  row  of  flannel  stitching,  take  four 
threads  vertically  on  the  needle,  and  keep  the  thread  under  it  to  form  a  loop. 


FIRST   GRADE   WORK. 


31 


What  does  vertically  mean?     Ans.    It  means  straight  up  and  down. 
How  many  threads  are  there  between  each  of  these  stitches  ?     Ans. 
There  are  two. 

THE   SECOND   MODEL. 

For  the  second  model  in  this  grade,  cut  a  piece  of  canvas  eight  and 
a  half  inches  square.     It  will  be  observed  that  this  canvas,  while  simi- 


Second  Model. 


lar  to  that  used  for  the  first  model,  is  still  quite  different,  being  softer, 
more  closely  woven,  and  in  every  way  much  more  like  cloth.      The 


32  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  ANL    GARMENT  CUTTING. 


reason  for  this  change  is  that  the  pupils  are  thus  brought  gradually 
nearer  to  the  various  fabrics  upon  which  they  will  be  required  later  on 
to  do  practical  work. 

When  this  square  has  been  carefully  cut  along  the  line  of  the 
threads,  from  each  of  the  width  sides  of  the  model,  count  ten  threads  on 
the  length  side,  or  the  selvage.  Along  the  line  of  the  eleventh  thread 
put  in  a  row  of  basting  in  red  marking-cotton.  This  is  the  guide  for 
the  beginning  of  the  different  designs  of  this  second  model. 

When  the  lines  of  red  basting  have  been  placed  ten  threads  from 
what  we  will  call  the  width  edges,  fold  the  square,  bringing  the  sides 
which  have  not  been  marked  with  basting  evenly  together.  Crease  the 
center  by  a  thread,  and  along  this  line  put  a  basting  in  blue  marking- 
cotton.  Although  the  designs  are  begun  at  the  red  basting  at  one  end, 
and  continued  no  farther  than  the  one  at  the  other  end,  the  threads 
with  which  the  designs  are  worked  must  be  left  as  long  as  the  model. 
This  will  give  little  notes  of  color  in  the  fringe,  which  is  formed  by 
raveling  out  the  weft  threads  along  this  edge  as  far  as  the  point  where 
the  designs  are  begun. 

When  the  blue  basting-thread  in  the  center  of  the  model  has  been 
placed,  count  two  threads  of  the  canvas  on  each  side  and  put  in  lines 
of  basting  in  red  marking-cotton,  which  forms  the  central  design  of  a 
group  of  one  blue  line  and  two  red  lines  of  basting-stitches. 

When  this  model  is  prepared,  before  work  is  begun  on  it,  explain  to 
the  class  that  the  width  cf  cloth  is  the  space  between  the  selvages ; 
that  the  warp  is  the  thread  Avhich  is  lengthwise  of  the  cloth,  in  a  line 
with  the  selvage,  and  the  weft  is  the  thread  which  extends  across  the 
fabric.  When  this  is  thoroughly  understood,  let  the  work  on  the  model 
be  commenced. 

QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS. 

Upon  what  are  you  now  beginning  to  work  ?     Ans.    A  new  model. 
Of  what  is  the  new  model  made  ?     Ans.    Of  Java  canvas. 


FIRST   GRADE   WORK.  33 


How  large  is  it  ?  Ans.  Eight  and  one-half  inches  wide  by  eight  and 
one-half  inches  long. 

What  is  a  figure  called  that  is  the  same  size  on  all  four  sides  ?  Ans. 
A  square. 

How  are  the  threads  of  all  kinds  of  canvas  woven  together  ?  Ans.  In 
small  squares.  . 

What  is  the  first  work  on  this  model  ?  Ans.  To  put  a  line  of  red 
basting  ten  threads  from  the  two  weft  or  width  edges  of  the  model. 

What  are  these  end  lines  for  ?  Ans.  To  show  where  the  different 
designs  are  to  be  begun,  and  where  they  are  to  end. 

Is  the  work  on  this  model  begun  at  the  side  ?  Ans.  No ;  it  is  com- 
menced in  the  center  and  worked  both  ways. 

What  is  the  first  design?  Ans.  A  blue  basting-line  in  the  center  of 
the  model  with  a  red  one  on  either  side  of  it. 

In  beginning  the  work  on  these  models,  is  the  thread  pulled  up  close  to 
the  first  stitch?  Ans.  No;  it  is  left  long  enough  to  reach  to  the  edge  of 
the  model. 

Why  are  the  threads  used  in  making  the  designs  left  long  enough  to 
reach  to  the  end  of  the  model  ?  Ans.  That  the  fringe  may  be  made 
prettier  by  having  a  few  colored  threads  mingled  with  it. 

How  many  colors  are  used  in  making  the  designs  of  this  model  ?  Ans. 
There  are  two  colors,  red  and  blue. 

Why  are  two  colors  used  ?     Ans.    To  make  the  model  more  attractive. 

What  does  this  second  model  form  when  finished  ?  Ans.  A  very  pretty 
little  mat. 

THE  SECOND  DESIGN. 

The  second  design  of  this  model  is  a  union  of  the  backstitch  and 
the  overhand  stitcb.  With  the  exception  of  the  one  in  the  center,  each 
design  is  repeated  on  the  opposite  side  from  the  one  on  which  it  is  first 
worked.  Let  the  teacher  begin  the  first  design,  but  in  doing  so  be  care- 
ful to  show  the  pupil  how  it  is  done,  telling  her  that  she  must  begin  and 
complete  without  help  the  corresponding  design  on  the  opposite  side. 

For  this  second  design,  count  three  canvas  threads  from  the  line  of 


34  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING   AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


red  basting-stitches  of  the  center  design,  and  put  in  a  line  of  blue  back- 
stitches. Then  count  two  canvas  threads,  and  double  the  model  along 
the  line  of  the  third  thread,  and  put  in  a  line  of  overhanding  in  red 
marking-cotton.  Count  two  threads,  and  put  in  a  line  of  blue  back- 
stitching.  This  finishes  the  second  design.  As  has  already  been  said, 
let  no  inaccuracy  pass.  When  a  design  is  finished,  it  should  be  in  every 
particular  correct.  Anything  less  than  this  tends  to  nullify  the  educa- 
tional value  of  the  system,  which  is  intended  to  be  a  course  of  manual 
training  as  well  as  sewing. 

QUESTIONS    AND   ANSWERS. 

Of  what  stitches  is  the  second  design  composed  ?  Ans.  Of  the  back- 
stitch and  the  overhand  stitch. 

What  is  a  composition  ?  Ans.  It  is  one  thing  made  up  of  several 
things  properly  put  together. 

How  is  this  design  composed  ?  Ans.  First  there  is  a  row  of  backstitch- 
ing  in  blue  marking-cotton,  then  there  is  a  line  of  red  overhanding,  and 
another  line  of  blue  backstitching. 

How  is  the  design  begun  ?  Ans.  Count  three  threads  of  the  canvas 
from  the  last  red  basting-line  of  the  central  design,  and  begin  the  back- 
stitching  with  blue  marking-cotton  at  the  red  basting-line  along  the  width 
edge  of  the  model,  leaving  the  thread  long  enough  to  reach  the  edge. 

When  the  first  line  of  backstitching  is  finished,  what  is  the  next  thing 
to  be  done  ?  Ans.  Count  two  threads  of  canvas  from  this  last  line  of  stitch- 
ing, double  the  model  together  along  the  line  of  the  third  thread,  and  put 
in  a  line  of  overhanding  in  red,  leaving  the  thread  as  long  as  the  model,  both 
where  it  is  begun  and  finished. 

How  is  this  design  finished  ?  Ans.  Count  two  canvas  threads  from  the 
overhanding,  and  put  in  a  line  of  backstitching  in  blue  marking-cotton. 

THIRD   DESIGN. 

The  third  design  is  composed  of  the  flannel  stitch  and  two  lines  of 
hemming.  In  beginning  this  design,  count  four  threads  from  the  last 


FIRST   GRADE   WORK.  35 

line  of  backstitching,  and  put  in  a  line  of  hemming  in  red.  Count  two 
threads  from  this  line  of  hemming,  and  put  in  a  line  of  flannel  stitching 
in  blue  marking-cotton.  Again  count  two  threads,  and  put  in  a  second 
line  of  hemming. 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

Of  what  stitches  is  the  third  design  composed  ?  Ans.  It  is  composed 
of  the  flannel  stitch  and  hemming. 

Plow  are  they  arranged  ?  Ans.  There  is  a  line  of  flannel  stitching  in 
blue  with  a  line  of  hemming  in  red  on  either  side. 

How  far  from  the  last  design  is  the  first  line  of  hemming  ?  Ans.  Four 
of  the  canvas  threads. 

How  far  from  the  line  of  hemming  is  the  flannel  stitch  ?  Ans.  Two 
canvas  threads. 

What  completes  this  design  ?  Ans.  A  line  of  hemming,  two  canvas 
threads  from  the  line  of  flannel  stitching. 

FINISHING    OF  THE  SECOND  MODEL. 

The  fourth  design  is  a  repetition  of  the  second,  begun  four  threads 
of  the  canvas  from  the  last  line  of  hemming  of  the  third  design.  Four 
threads  from  this  design  is  a  line  of  blanket  stitch  extending  from  one 
line  of  the  red  basting  to  the  other.  When  each  of  these  designs  has 
been  repeated,  draw  out  the  red  basting-lines  which  mark  the  beginning 
and  ending  of  the  designs.  Cut  the  selvage  along  the  line  of  the  first 
thread,  and  draw  the  threads  of  the  four  sides,  with  the  exception  of  the 
last  thread  next  the  design,  for  the  fringed  edge.  Draw  out  first  the 
weft  threads,  leaving  the  last  thread  next  to  the  design,  on  both  sides, 
then  draw  the  warp  threads  on  both  sides,  leaving  the  last  thread  along 
the  line  of  the  blanket  stitching,  and  the  model  is  complete. 

QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS. 

Of  what  kind  of  stitches  is  the  fourth  design  composed  ?  Ans.  Of  back- 
stitching  and  overhanding. 


36  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


How  many  designs  like  this  are  there  on  this  model  ?  Ans.  There  are 
four. 

How  many  kinds  of  stitches  are  there  on  this  model  ?  Ans.  Six  differ- 
ent kinds. 

What  is  this  model  when  it  is  finished?  Ans.  A  little  mat  ornamented 
in  designs  in  red  and  blue  marking  cotton. 

QUESTIONS  FOR  REVIEW. 

What  preparation  should  be  made  before  beginning  to  sew  ? 
How  should  one  sit  when  sewing  ? 

What  stitches  make  up  the  designs  of  the  first  model  ? 
How  is  each  of  these  stitches  taken  ? 

Between  which  two  fingers  is  the  thread  drawn  in  sewing  ? 
What  is  the  second  model  of  the  first  grade  ? 
How  many  different  stitches  are  there  on  this  model  ? 
How  does  the  canvas  of  this  model  differ  from  that  used  for  the  first  ? 
What  is  the  warp  thread  ? 
What  is  the  weft  ? 
What  is  a  square  ? 
How  is  canvas  woven  ? 

How  many  different  designs  are  there  in  this  model,  and  what  colors 
are  used  in  making  them  ? 

What  does  this  design  form  when  finished  ? 

Why  are  the  stitches  arranged  in  designs,  and  why  are  two  colors  used  ? 

NOTE.  —  The  general  facts  that  follow  each  grade,  concerning  the  more  important 
materials  and  their  manufacture,  have  been  given  place,  because  it  has  been  found  that 
to  know  something  of  these  subjects  stimulates  the  intelligent  interest  of  pupils  in  their 
work.  The  discussion  of  these  facts,  during  class  work,  is  optional  with  the  teacher, 
as  they  are  not  a  part  of  the  regular  course  ;  but  such  discussion  is  recommended. 
These  facts  are  presented  in  a  condensed  form,  and  it  is  expected  that  the  teacher  will 
elaborate  and  adapt  them  as  seems  desirable. 


FIRST   GRADE   WORK. 


37 


38  SCIENTIFIC   SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING 

MATERIALS   AND    THEIR    MANUFACTURE 

WOOL. 

THERE  was  once  a  little  white  lamb,  with  mild  e}res  and  a  short 
woolly  tail,  that  lived  near  the  Pacific  Ocean  in  a  pretty  green  valley 
with  high  mountains  on  either  side. 

When  this  little  lamb  was  about  four  weeks  old,  it  began  to  nibble 
grass  and  other  green  things :  before  this  its  only  food  was  its  mother's 
milk.  It  grew  a  little  every  day,  and  when  it  was  eight  months  old  it 
w^as  almost  as  large  as  its  mother. 

One  day  the  Mexican  shepherd  who  took  care  of  this  lamb,  its 
mother,  and  three  or  four  hundred  other  sheep  and  lambs,  took  it  to  a 
little  stream  that  ran  through  the  valley,  and  washed  it.  Then,  after 
putting  it  in  a  pen,  he  cut  off  all  its  soft  white  wool.  The  shepherd 
was  so  skillful  that,  when  he  had  finished  cutting,  the  whole  fleece  was 
in  a  single  sheet  the  size  and  shape  of  the  lamb.  The  fleece  is  the  wool 
of  a  sheep  or  lamb  after  it  has  been  cut  from  its  body. 

When  the  shepherd  had  clipped  the  wool  from  each  of  the  lambs 
that  were  eight  months  old,  he  packed  all  the  fleeces  together  in  great 
sacks.  These  sacks  were  sent  to  a  place  called  a  factory.  The  first 
wool  cut  from  a  lamb  is  the  best ;  but  there  are  different  kinds  of  wool, 
even  in  a  single  fleece.  Some  parts  of  these  fleeces,  therefore,  were 
made  into  very  fine,  soft  cloth,  and  some  into  the  nicest  lamb's-wool 
yarn,  and  such  delicate  wool  thread  as  is  used  in  working  the  models  in 
the  first  and  second  grades. 

The  lamb  we  are  reading  about  was  of  the  variety  known  as  the 
Spanish  merino ;  and  like  all  sheep  of  this  kind,  it  had  rather  a  small 
body,  and  very  long,  thick  wool.  When  its  wool  was  cut  off,  it  could 
walk  and  run  much  easier  than  before.  It  was  then  taken  with  the 
other  sheep  to  a  State  a  long  distance  from  where  it  was  born,  called 
Wyoming.  The  farmers  there  wanted  some  long-wooled  Spanish  merino 


FIRST   GRADE    WORK.  39 

sheep;  for  they  had  only  South-Downs,  Leicesters,  and  other  common 
varieties. 

The  Mexican  shepherd,  dressed  in  an  oilskin  coat  and  trousers, 
with  a  blue  shirt  of  sheep's  wool  trimmed  with  gay  buttons  and  lacings, 
and  a  broad-brimmed  hat,  went  with  our  lamb  and  the  other  sheep,  to 
take  care  of  them.  Sheep  must  always  have  some  one  to  look  after 
them ;  for  they  are  gentle,  helpless  creatures,  and  it  matters  not  how 
old  they  are,  they  never  seem  to  know  enough  to  take  good  care  of 
themselves.  But  though  in  some  ways  they  require  more  care  than 
other  animals,  man  can  well  afford  to  give  them  attention,  for  they  are 
very  useful  indeed.  Their  wool,  which  is  a  species  of  hair,  is  one  of  the 
most  valuable  materials  in  the  world  for  all  kinds  of  clothing.  Their 
flesh,  which  is  called  mutton,  makes  very  good  food ;  and  their  skins 
are  made  into  a  leather  that  is  used  for  many  purposes. 

If  our  lamb  had  lived  in  some  other  part  of  the  world,  it  would  have 
had  a  very  different  kind  of  a  shepherd  to  care  for  it.  In  Scotland  he 
would  have  been,  in  olden  times,  a  blue-eyed,  light-haired  man,  with  a 
long  white  cloak  made  of  the  locks  of  the  sheep.  He  would  have  car- 
ried a  crook,  or  crosier,  as  a  staff ;  a  sling  for  throwing  stones ;  and  a 
pipe  or  flute  on  which  to  play  while  his  flock  ate  grass.  With  him 
there  would  have  been  a  dog,  trained  to  help  drive  and  care  for  the 
sheep. 

In  Yorkshire,  England,  in  the  olden  times,  a  shepherd  was  quite  an 
important  man,  who  had  a  great  many  friends;  for  there  were  many 
shepherds  in  Yorkshire.  They  had  one  Sunday  in  the  year  set  apart 
for  them,  called  the  "Shepherds'  Sunday;"  and  the  time  when  they  cut 
the  wool  from  their  sheep,  called  "sheep-shearing  time,*'  was  observed 
as  a  great  festival. 

If  our  lamb  had  lived  in  France,  he  would  very  likely  have  had  a 
young  girl  to  take  care  of  him  and  the  rest  of  the  flock.  The  French 
shepherdess  knits  while  she  tends  her  flock,  instead  of  playing  on  a  pipe 
like  the  Scotch  shepherd. 


40  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT  CUTTING. 

It  was  a  long  journey  from  the  first  home  of  our  lamb  to  Wyoming  ; 
and  as  the  sheep  walked  all  the  way,  it  took  them  a  good  many  days  to 
get  there.  But  the  longest  way  is  finally  passed  if  we  keep  steadily 
on,  and  the  hardest  task  is  at  last  accomplished  if  we  do  a  little  every 
day.  In  some  of  the  places  through  which  the  sheep  passed,  there  was 
very  little  water  and  almost  no  grass.  Such  a  place  is  called  a  desert. 
The  way  was  not  only  long,  but  hard,  and  the  sheep  and  lambs  often 
lay  down  to  rest.  Sometimes  the  Mexican  shepherd  also  got  so  heated 
and  tired  that  he  dug  away  the  hot  top  of  the  earth  ;  and  when  he  came 
to  that  which  was  cool,  he  put  his  oilskin  coat  over  some  low  sage 
bushes,  in  order  to  make  a  little  shelter  from  the  sun,  and  lay  down  for 
a  time. 

At  last  the  lamb,  its  shepherd,  and  the  other  sheep,  arrived  at  their 
new  home.  I  wish  you  could  have  seen  it !  There  were  bright  flowers, 
green  grass,  blue  skies,  a  pretty  brook  that  emptied  its  water  into  a 
river  not  far  away,  and  many  other  pleasant  and  beautiful  things.  By 
this  time  the  wool  had  grown  again  all  over  the  lambs ;  but  the  shep- 
herd did  not  cut  it  off  now,  for  winter  was  at  hand,  and  they  would 
need  this  thick  covering  to  protect  them  from  the  cold  winds  and  the 
snow.  When  the  spring  came  once  more,  bringing  warmth  and  sun- 
shine and  the  flowers,  the  shepherd  cut  the  wool  from  all  his  sheep ;  for 
they  could  then  do  without  their  heavy  coats,  just  as  boys  and  girls  can 
wear  lighter  clothing  when  it  is  warm.  The  lamb  had  now  grown  to 
be  a  young  sheep ;  and  although  it  had  more  wool  than  when  it  was 
first  sheared,  its  fleece  was  not  worth  so  much,  because  it  was  not 
lamb's  wool.  Still  it  was  very  nice,  because  it  was  of  the  merino  variety; 
and  the  merino  sheep,  even  when  they  are  old,  have  fine  wool. 


SECOND   GRADE   WORK.  41 


CHAPTER   III. 

SECOND    GRADE    WORK 

PROVIDED  the  pupil  devotes  forty  minutes  twice  a  week  to  sewing, 
the  work  in  this  grade  will  occupy  a  school  year. 

The  one  model  for  this  grade  is  a  canvas  bag  ornamented  with  sim- 
ple designs,  which,  when  properly  completed,  exemplifies  all  the  stitches 
taught  in  the  course.  When  the  pupil  has  finished  it,  she  is  ready  to 
work  on  garment  fabrics. 

The  aim  of  this  system  is  to  make  it  possible  for  the  pupils  to  do  the 
work  of  each  lesson,  not  without  instruction,  but  without  assistance. 
It  has  been  demonstrated  that  this  is  possible  in  every  case  when  each 
step  is  thoroughly  understood  as  the  pupils  proceed.  The  preparatory 
work  cannot  be  too  carefully  considered,  as  with  ail  first  principles  ; 
and  although  a  year  seems  a  long  time  to  work  on  a  single  model,  it 
will  be  found  none  too  long  for  the  pupils  to  become  quite  familiar 
with  the  stitches  which  in  the  succeeding  grades  are  used  under  more 
difficult  and  exacting  conditions. 

The  children,  having  now  become  familiar  with  the  use  of  the 
needle,  should  be  encouraged  to  work  independently  outside  the  class- 
room. Towels  for  kitchen  use  in  the  home  may  be  hemmed  and  brought 
to  the  teacher  for  inspection.  The  combinations  of  the  various  stitches, 
as  they  are  learned,  can  be  used  in  ornamenting  dolls'  clothes,  flannel 
petticoats,  and  little  spreads  for  tables  or  washstands.  An  excellent 
practice  is  to  let  the  children  bring  in  designs  made  outside  the  class, 
by  combining,  according  to  their  own  ideas,  the  various  stitches  they 
have  learned.  In  this  way  the  creative  faculty  is  stimulated,  and  at 
the  same  time  the  work  is  correctly  done. 


42 


SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


THE  MODEL. 

The  material  of  this  model  is  No.  1  Ada  canvas,  which,  while  soft 
and  like  cloth  in  many  ways,  is  yet  so  coarse  that  the  threads  can  be 

easily  counted.  It  is  eighteen 
inches  long  and  nine  inches 
wide ;  and  when  it  has  been 
carefully  cut  along  the  line 
of  a  thread,  it  may  be  given 
to  the  pupil  to  overcast. 
The  overcasting  should  be 
explained  as  an  overhand 
stitch,  longer  and  deeper 
than  the  one  used  in  sew- 
ing. The  pupils  should  be 
required  to  do  this  work 
neatly,  taking  the  stitches 
four  threads  apart  and  four 
threads  down.  It  must  be 
explained  that  this  overcast- 
ing is  necessary,  since  other- 
wise the  goods  would  ravel  or  fray  along  the  edges. 

When  the  model  has  been  overcast,  measure  two  inches  from  the 
top  and  bottom,  draw  a  thread,  and  put  a  line  of  red  basting  in  the 
space.  This  is  to  indicate  where  the  designs  begin  and  end. 

QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS. 

What  will  the  new  model  be  when  it  is  finished  ?     Ans.    A  fancy  bag. 

Of  what  is  the  model  made  ?     Ans.    Of  canvas. 

What  is  the  size  of  the  model  ?  Ans.  It  is  eighteen  inches  long  and 
nine  inches  wide. 

What  is  the  first  thing  to  be  done  on  this  model  ?  Ans,  To  overcast 
the  edges. 


Canvas  Bag. 


SECOND    GRADE   WORK.  43 

t 

How  is  overcasting  done  ?  Ans.  Like  overhaading,  only  that  the  stitches 
are  deeper,  arid  farther  apart. 

What  would  happen  if  the  edges  were  not  overcast  ?  Ans.  They  would 
fray. 

THE  FIRST  DESIGN. 

Like  the  last  model  of  the  first  grade,  the  designs  of  this  are 
worked  from  the  center.  First  let  the  pupil  put  the  long  edges  of  the 
model  carefully  together,  and  crease  the  center.  From  the  center  thread 
count  four  to  the  right,  and  put  in  a  row  of  backs titching.  Let  this 
backstitching  be  between  the  fourth  and  fifth  threads  from  the  center. 

The  thread  used  is  red  crochet  cotton,  which  makes  a  better  design 
than  marking-cotton,  and  is  less  expensive. 

When  this  line  is  completed,  count  nine  threads  to  the  left,  and  put 
in  another  row  of  red  backstitching.  In  the  center  between  these  two 
put  in  a  line  of  red  flannel  stitching,  worked  over  three  threads  of  the 
canvas. 

QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS. 

In  what  part  of  the  model  is  the  first  design  worked  ?  Ans.  In  the 
center. 

How  is  the  center  of  the  model  formed  ?  Ans.  By  placing  the  two 
long  sides  of  the  model  together,  and  creasing  it  along  the  center. 

What  is  the  first  stitching  put  in  ?  Ans.  A  line  of  backstitching  be- 
tween the  fourth  and  fifth  threads  from  the  center. 

What  is  the  next  step  ?  Ans.  Nine  threads  to  the  left  of  the  first  line 
of  backstitching  put  in  another  line. 

How  is  this  central  design  finished  ?  Ans.  With  a  line  of  flannel  stitch- 
ing between  these  two  lines  of  backstitching,  over  the  three  center  threads 
of  the  model. 

In  what  color  and  kind  of  thread  are  all  the  designs  of  this  model 
worked  ?  Ans.  In  red  crochet  cotton. 


44  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 

THE  SECOND  DESIGN. 

Between  the  first  and  second  designs,  there  is  a  space  of  six  threads 
of  the  canvas.  Count  seven  threads  to  the  left ;  crease  the  model  be- 
tween the  seventh  and  eighth  threads,  and  put  in  a  line  of  overhanding 
by  taking  up  two  threads  and  leaving  two,  forming  a  diagonal  bar 
across  a  square  of  four  threads.  When  this  is  completed,  count  eleven 
threads  to  the  left,  crease  the  model  between  the  eleventh  and  twelfth 
threads,  and  put  in  another  line  of  overhanding. 

When  these  two  lines  are  completed,  there  are  ten  threads  of  can- 
vas between  them.  Begin  the  line  of  flannel  stitching  that  finishes 
this  design  three  threads  from  the  last  line  of  overhanding,  and  carry 
the  thread  in  the  needle  over  four  canvas  threads ;  then  proceed  as  in 
the  flannel  stitching  already  described,  keeping  four  threads  between  the 
upper  and  lower  stitches,  instead  of  three  as  in  the  central  design. 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

How  many  threads  are  there  between  the  first  and  second  designs  ? 
Ans.  There  are  six. 

What  is  the  first  stitch  of  the  second  design  ?  Ans.  The  overhand 
stitch. 

Where  is  the  model  doubled  down  for  this  stitch  ?  Ans.  Between  the 
seventh  and  eighth  threads  of  the  canvas,  counting  from  the  last  line  of 
backstitching  of  the  second  design. 

How  many  threads  are  there  between  this  and  the  second  line  of  over- 
handing  ?  Ans.  Ten  threads. 

Where  is  the  canvas  creased  for  the  second  line  of  overhanding  ?  Ans. 
Between  the  eleventh  and  twelfth  threads  to  the  left  of  the  first  line. 

How  is  this  design  finished  ?  Ans.  With  a  line  of  flannel  stitching 
between  the  two  lines  of  overhanding. 

Where  is  this  placed  ?  Ans.  The  first  stitch  is  placed  three  threads 
from  the  last  line  of  overhanding.,  and  the  next  across  four  threads,  and 
three  threads  from  the  other  line  of  overhanding. 


SECOND   GRADE   WORK.  45 


THE   THIRD   DESIGN. 

For  the  third  design,  leave  a  space  of  six  threads  of  canvas,  and 
between  the  sixth  and  seventh  threads  put  in  a  line  of  backstitching. 
Count  three  threads,  and  put  in  a  line  of  basting,  taking  up  two  threads 
and  leaving  four.  Count  two  threads,  and  put  in  another  line  in  the 
same  way,  and  again  count  two  threads,  and  put  in  a  third  line.  Leave 
a  space  of  three  threads,  and  put  in  a  line  of  backstitching,  which 
finishes  the  third  design. 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

How  far  is  the  third  design  from  the  second  ?     An  ft.    Six  threads. 

Of  what  is  it  composed  ?     Ans.    The  backstitch  and  basting-stitch. 

Where  is  the  first  line  of  backstitching  placed  ?  Ans.  Between  the 
sixth  and  seventh  threads  from  the  second  design. 

Where  is  the  first  line  of  basting  placed  ?  Ans.  Three  threads  from 
the  line  of  backstitching. 

How  far  from  the  first  line  of  basting  is  the  second  one  placed  ?  Ans. 
Two  threads,  and  the  third  and  last  is  two  threads  from  that. 

How  is  this  design  finished  ?  Ans.  By  a  line  of  backstitching  three 
threads  from  the  last  line  of  basting. 

THE  FOURTH  DESIGN. 

Leaving  a  space  of  six  threads,  put  in  a  line  of  hemming  by  taking 
up  two  stitches  and  slanting  over  two.  Count  three  threads,  and  put  in 
a  line  of  stem,  or,  as  it  is  often  called,  outline  stitch.  This  is  done  by 
taking  up  two  stitches  and  going  back  two,  beginning  at  the  left  instead 
of  the  right,  and  keeping  the  thread  from  the  beginning  to  the  end  on  the 
same  side  of  the  stitching.  This  stitch  is  really  the  reverse  side  of  back- 
stitching, and  on  the  under  side  of  the  model  forms  a  perfect  backstitch. 

There  are  three  lines  of  the  stemstitch  with  two  threads  of  canvas 
between  each  of  them.  Three  threads  from  the  last  line  of  stemstitch- 
ing  put  in  a  line  of  hemming.  This  finishes  the  last  design  on  the  left 
side  of  the  bag.  Each  of  these  designs  is  repeated  on  the  right  side. 


46  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING   AND    GARMENT  CUTTING. 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

How  many  designs  ornament  this  bag  ?     Ans.    Seven  in  all. 

How  many  different  designs  are  there  ?     Ans.    Four. 

How  many  designs  are  repeated  ?     Ans.    Three  are  repeated. 

Of  what  is  the  last  design  composed  ?  Ans.  Of  hemming  and  the  stem- 
stitch. 

How  are  they  arranged  ?  Ans.  First  there  is  a  line  of  hemming  six 
threads  to  the  left  of  the  backstitching  that  finishes  the  last  design. 

What  is  the  next  stitch  in  this  design,  and  where  is  it  placed  ?  Ans. 
The  stemstitch,  which  is  put  in  three  threads  from  the  hemming. 

How  is  the  stemstitch  put  in  ?  Ans.  It  is  begun  at  the  left  instead  of 
the  right,  by  first  taking  up  two  threads,  then  setting  the  needle  back  two 
and  taking  two  threads  at  each  stitch,  keeping  the  thread  under  the  needle. 

What  stitch  is  the  stemstitch  like  ?  Ans.  It  is  taken  like,  and  is 
really  the  reverse  side  of,  the  backstitch. 

How  many  lines  of  stemstitch  are  there  in  this  design  ?  AUK.  Three ; 
and  there  are  two  threads  of  the  canvas  between  them. 

What  finishes  this  design  ?  Ans.  A  line  of  hemming  three  threads 
from  the  last  row  of  stemstitchiug. 

HEMSTITCHING. 

The  designs  being  finished,  the  next  work  is  the  top  of  the  model. 
It  will  be  remembered  that  a  thread  of  canvas  was  drawn,  and  a  red 
basting  placed  to  mark  the  limit  of  the  designs.  Draw  out  this  red 
thread  and  one  more  thread  of  canvas,  and  the  model  is  ready  to  be 
hemstitched  across  the  ends,  which  later  011  form  the  top  of  the  bag. 

As  has  been  said,  each  step  in  this  course  of  work  has  been  ar- 
ranged, after  repeated  experiments  and  long  experience  with  children 
of  different  ages,  in  accordance  with  the  principles  of  a  harmonious 
development  rather  than  a  forcing  of  faculties.  It  has  been  found 
that  it  is  too  difficult  for  beginners  to  undertake  to  catch  the  hem  and 
learn  the  hemstitch  at  the  same  time,  therefore  there  is  no  hem  turned 
in  this  first  lesson  in  hemstitching. 


SECOND   GR^DE   WORK.  47 


When  the  threads  of  canvas  have  been  drawn,  let  the  pupil  first 
take  a  backstitch  to  secure  the  thread,  then  take  up  two  of  the  warp 
canvas  threads  which  have  been  left  by  pulling  out  the  weft,  catching 
it  into  one  thread  of  the  cloth  below.  Set  the  needle  back  two  threads, 
and  take  up  two  threads,  as  in  the  backstitch,  setting  the  needle  each 
time  one  thread  into  the  firm  cloth. 

When  the  ends  have  been  hemstitched,  measure  down  the  length  of 
the  model  twelve  threads  from  the  last  design,  and  draw  two  threads 
on  each  side.  Turn  in  the  edge  of  the  model  one-fourth  of  an  inch, 
crease  down  a  hem  that  just  reaches  to  the  drawn  threads,  and  baste. 

When  this  has  been  done,  let  it  be  hemstitched,  being  careful  to 
explain  that  not  only  must  two  threads  be  taken  up  at  each  stitch,  but 
also  the  edge  of  the  hem,  as  in  this  way  it  is  held  in  place. 

QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  first  thing  to  be  done  in  hemstitching  ?  Ana.  To  draw 
the  threads. 

How  is  the  stitch  taken  ?  Ans.  Two  threads  are  taken  up  and  the 
needle  set  back  over  two  at  every  stitch. 

How  is  the  hem  turned  ?  Ans.  First  the  edge  is  turned  one-fourth  of 
an  inch,  and  the  hem  is  then  creased  down  so  that  the  edge  just  reaches 
the  drawn  lines. 

Was  there  a  hem  turned  at  the  top  of  the  bag  ?  Ans.  No ;  that  was  a 
practice  hemstitch. 

How  is  the  hemstitching  along  the  edge  of  the  bag  different  from  that  at 
the  top  ?  Ans.  At  the  side,  the  edge  of  the  hem  is  caught  with  every  stitch. 

Is  hemstitching  useful  ?     Ans.    Yes  ;  in  ornamental  work. 

Should  hemstitching  be  done  very  evenly  ?  Ans.  All  stitches  should 
be  done  evenly. 

JOINING   AND   FINISHING    THE  MODEL. 

Fold  the  model  with  the  long  sides  together  so  that  the  two  short 
sides  are  even,  and  overhand  the  hemstitched  sides,  carefully  matching 


48  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING   AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


the  threads.  The  attention  of  the  pupil  should  be  especially  called  to 
the  depth  of  the  stitch.  It  should  not  be  more  than  one  thread  deep, 
as  otherwise  the  seam  will  be  clumsy,  and  will  not  lay  flat.  No.  40 
white  cotton  thread  should  be  used  for  this  overhanding. 

After  turning  down  the  top  of  the  bag  five  threads,  baste  a  red  tape 
half  an  inch  wide  about  the  top,  one  thread  from  the  edge,  so  that  it 
does  not  show  on  the  right  side.  It  should  be  basted  twice,  once  near 
the  upper  and  once  near  the  lower  edge.  The  lower  edge  of  this  facing 
must  be  even  with  a  thread  of  the  canvas,  where  it  is  held  in  place  by  a 
line  of  hemming  in  the  red  crochet  cotton. 

The  upper  edge  is  finished  with  the  buttonhole  stitch  in  red  crochet 
cotton.  The  stitch  is  made  by  setting  the  needle  down  four  threads, 
and  throwing  the  thread  from  the  eye  of  the  needle  over  it  from  right 
to  left,  forming  a  twisted  loop,  which  is  the  pearl  edge  of  the  buttonhole. 

When  the  top  is  finished,  draw  six  threads  above  the  horizontal  line 
of  hemstitching  about  the  top  of  the  model,  and  from  each  side  run  in 
a  piece  of  No.  2  red  lute-string  ribbon,  which  is  long  enough  to  form 
a  bow  on  either  side  when  the  bag  is  not  drawn  up.  This  completes 
the  work  of  the  second  grade. 

QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS. 

Ho\v  is  the  model  finished  ?  Ans.  It  is  first  folded  so  that  the  short 
edges  come  evenly  together. 

How  is  it  joined  ?  Ans.  It  is  overhanded  together  very  carefully,  bring- 
ing the  hemstitching  at  the  top  and  the  threads  down  the  sides  evenly  together. 

How  deep  should  the  overhand  stitch  be  taken  ?  Ans.  One  thread  on 
each  side. 

What  thread  is  used  ?     Ans.    No.  40  white  cotton  thread. 

What  is  the  next  thing  to  be  done  ?  Ans.  Face  the  bag  with  red  tape 
a  half  an  inch  wide. 

How  is  this  done  ?  Ans.  Turn  in  the  top  of  the  bag  three  threads, 
baste  the  tape  on  one  thread  from  the  top,  having  the  lower  edge  straight 
with  a  thread,  where  it  is  hemmed  on  with  red  crochet  cotton. 


SECOND   GRADE  -WORK.  49 

How  is  the  bag  finished  at  the  top  ?  Ans.  With  the  buttonhole  stitch 
in  red  crochet  cotton. 

How  is  this  buttonhole  stitch  done  ?  Ans.  The  needle  is  set  four 
threads  down,  and  the  thread  looped  over  the  needle  from  right  to  left  in 
such  a  way  as  to  form  a  pearl  or  buttonhole  edge. 

What  is  the  next  thing  to  be  done  in  finishing  this  model  ?  Ans.  Above 
the  hemstitching,  around  the  top  of  the  bag,  draw  six  threads. 

What  is  this  space  for  ?  Ans.  For  the  two  ribbons  used  in  drawing  up 
the  bag. 

How  are  these  ribbons  run  in  this  space  ?  Ans.  Under  six  threads  and 
over  six  threads. 

Why  are  they  run  from  both  sides  ?  Ans.  So  that  the  bag  may  be 
drawn  evenly  from  each  direction. 

What  sort  of  ribbon  is  used,  and  how  is  it  finished  at  the  ends  ?  Ans. 
No..2  red  lute-string  ribbon  is  used,  and  it  is  tied  in  a  bow  on  each  side. 

How  much  ribbon  is  required  for  this  bag?     Ans.    Two  yards. 

QUESTIONS  FOR  REVIEW. 

How  many  models  in  the  second  grade  ? 

What  is  this  one  model  ? 

In  what  way  is  the  canvas  of  this  model  different  from  that  used  for  the 
second  model  of  the  first  grade  ? 

How  many  different  designs  ornament  this  model  ? 

What  is  a  design  ? 

What  is  a  composition  ? 

How  many  different  kinds  of  stitches  are  there  on  this  model  ? 

How  many  of  these  stitches  have  not  been  given  before  ? 

Describe  them. 

When  is  overhanding  used  ? 

Of  how  many  stitches  is  each  design  composed  ? 

Are  there  more  stitches  used  in  ordinary  sewing  than  there  are  on  this 
fancy  bag  ? 

What  is  the  difference  between  a  flannel  and  a  buttonhole  stitch  ? 

How  does  stemstitching  differ  from  backstitching  ? 


50 


SCIENTIFIC    SEWING   AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


MATERIALS    AND    THEIR    MANUFACTURE 

FLAX. 

A  COTTON  field,  with  its  opening  pods,  or,  as  they  are  called  where 
cotton  is  raised,  bolls,  is  a  beautiful  sight ;   so  also  is  a  field  of  bloom- 
ing flax.     The  one  is  like  a  sea  of  gleaming  sil- 
ver, the  other  like  a  sea  that  is  as  blue  as  the  sky. 
The  blossom  of  the  flax  plant  is  a  delicate 
and  beautiful  shade  of  blue.     Unlike  cotton, 
flax,  from  the  fiber  of  which  linen 
is   made,  grows    best   where   it   is 
cool.     When  it  blooms,  the  plant 
is    between    two    and    three    feet 
high.     It  requires  a  great  deal  of 
moisture,  and  it  is  therefore  most 
successfully  cultivated  in  the  lowlands  of 
Holland  and  Belgium. 

Flax  is,  so  to  speak,  a  delicate  plant, 
and  it  therefore  requires  a  great  deal  of 
work  to  raise  it.     It  will  not  grow  well 
if  there   are   any  weeds   near  it,  and  for 
this  reason  they  must  all  be  pulled  up.      In  Eu- 
rope,  where   the   best  flax   is    cultivated,   women 
and  children  weed  the  flax  fields,  going  through 
them  on  their  hands  and  knees. 

When  the  leaves  of  the  flax  plant  begin  to 
fall,  and  the  stock  to  turn  yellow,  it  is  harvested. 
This  is  done  by  pulling  the  plants  up  by  the  roots, 
and  laying  them  evenly  together,  as  the  fiber  of  which  the  linen  is 
made  is  injured  if  they  are  twisted  or  doubled.  This  fiber  lies  between 


Flax. 


SECOND    GRADE   WORK. 


51 


the  bark  and  the  inner,  woody  pith  of  the  plant ;   and  it  is  rather  a 
long  and  tedious  process  to  separate  it. 

When  the  flax  has  been  pulled,  the  first  thing  done  is  what  is  called 
" rippling"  it,  which  is  removing  the  seed-pods.  The  next  thing  to  be 
done  is  the  "  retting,"  which  is  a  fermentation  that  loosens  the  gummy 
substance  which  binds  the  fiber  to  the  wood.  This  is  accomplished  by 
exposing  the  flax  to  the  dew  in  the  fields,  or  by  immersing  it  in  water. 


Hackling  Flax. 

To  put  it  into  water  is  better  than  to  depend  on  the  dew ;  in  fact,  it  is 
the  only  way  to  get  really  fine  fiber.  The  flax  stalks  are  kept  wholly 
under  water,  but  are  not  permitted  to  rest  on  the  bottom  of  the  pond  or 
tank. 

This  retting  process,  which  separates  the  fiber  from  the  rest  of  the 
plant,  requires  both  skill  and  care.  If  the  stalks  are  left  too  long  in  the 
water  after  fermentation  has  taken  place,  the  fiber  is  weak  and  lacks 
gloss.  If  it  is  not  left  long  enough,  it  is  dry  and  coarse.  Again,  the 


52  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING   AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


water  used  must  be  pure,  soft,  and  free  from  lime,  iron,  or  other  sub- 
stances of  a  similar  nature  which  color  and  injure  the  fiber. 

The  water  of  the  river  Lys  in  Belgium  is  expressly  suited  to  retting 
flax,  and  for  this  reason  the  flax  grown  near  it  is  the  finest  in  the  world. 

The  next  thing  after  the  retting,  is  to  remove  the  woody  pith.  This 
is  called  "  scutching,"  and  is  accomplished  by  beating  the  flax  until  the 
wood  drops  out  and  the  fiber  is  left.  Sometimes  this  is  done  by  ma- 
chinery, and  sometimes  by  hand. 

After  all  this  has  been  done,  the  flax  is  "  hackled,"  and  it  is  then 
ready  to  spin.  The  hackling  is  a  combing  process  by  which  the  chaff 
and  the  coarse,  rough  fiber,  called  the  tow,  is  removed,  and  only  the 
clean  linen  fiber  is  left,  white,  straight,  and  ready  for  the  spinner. 

Sometimes  flax  is  cultivated,  not  for  the  fiber,  but  for  the  seed,  which 
is  used  for  making  linseed  oil.  It  is  then  permitted  to  get  thoroughly 
ripe,  much  riper  than  when  the  fiber  is  to  be  used.  The  seed  only  is 
gathered  then,  and  the  stalks  are  thrown  away. 

So  long  ago  that  there  is  no  written  account  of  it,  flax  was  culti- 
vated for  the  fiber,  which  was  used,  as  it  is  now,  for  clothing.  We  know 
this  because  pieces  of  linen  have  been  found  in  tombs  and  other  places 
where  it  had  been  lying  thousands  of  years.  Although  the  art  of  mak- 
ing linen  from  flax  is  so  old,  there  has  been  very  little  change  in  the 
way  in  which  it  is  prepared  for  spinning ;  and  the  process  is  much  the 
same  as  it  was  when  the  children  of  Israel  were  in  bondage  in  Egypt. 
Until  very  recently  it  has  been  almost  wholly  a  domestic  art.  Even 
now  there  are  small  farmers  in  Scotland  and  Ireland  who  raise  flax ; 
and  it  is  prepared  for  spinning,  spun,  woven,  bleached,  finished,  and 
made  ready  for  market,  by  the  farmer's  wife  and  children. 

THIMBLES. 

Just  fancy  how  awkward  it  would  be  to  wear  a  thimble  on  your 
thumb.  Yet  for  a  good  many  years  after  thimbles  were  invented 
they  were  worn  only  on  the  thumb.  Because  of  this  they  were  called 


SECOND    GRADE   WORK.  53 

thumb-bells.  After  a  time  this  word  was  shortened,  and  the  very  useful 
little  contrivance  with  which  a  needle  is  pushed  through  fabrics  was 
called,  as  it  still  is,  a  thimble. 

When  the  thimble  had  been  in  use  for  some  time,  it  was  found  that 
it  could  be  used  much  more  successfully  on  the  middle  finger  than  on 
the  thumb ;  and  now  it  seems  strange  that  it  should  ever  have  been 
used  in  any  other  way. 

The  thimble  was  invented  in  Holland.  It  was  in  1695  that  John 
Loftington  came  over  from  Holland,  and  established  a  manufactory  of 
thimbles  at  Islington,  England.  At  that  time,  and  for  a  long  time  after- 
wards, thimbles  were  made  entirely  by  hand ;  and  many  of  them  were 
beautifully  wrought,  and  set  with  gems.  Now  all  this  is  changed,  and 
with  very  few  exceptions  they  are  made  entirely  by  machinery. 

The  ordinary  thimble,  whether  of  gold,  silver,  steel,  aluminium,  cel- 
luloid, or  any  other  material  of  which  thimbles  are  made,  is  first  molded 
into  the  size  and  form  desired.  The  small  indentations  in  which  the 
eye  of  the  needle  rests  as  it  is  pushed  through  the  fabric  are  made  by 
machinery.  The  polishing  is  also  done  very  rapidly  by  machinery,  all 
of  w^hich  is  simple,  and  needs  very  little  attention.  Hence  the  labor 
required  in  making  a  thimble  is  small ;  and  thimbles  cost  but  little, 
save  when  they  are  made  of  expensive  material. 


54  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING   AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


CHAPTER   IV. 

THIRD    GRADE    WORK. 

UP  to  this  point  the  pupil  has  been  engaged  in  becoming  familiar 
with  the  needle  and  thimble  and  the  different  stitches  used  in  sewing. 
Now  the  scissors  are  added  to  the  implements  which  will  be  constantly 
employed,  for  the  work  of  this  grade  includes  some  of  the  fundamental 
principles  of  drafting  and  cutting.  In  this  work,  as  in  the  sewing,  the 
natural  method  of  development  by  gradual  unfoldment  is  followed. 

The  first  thing  is  to  teach  the  child  to  use  the  scissors.  Scissors 
about  five  inches  long  should  be  selected ;  and  they  should  be  of  good 
steel,  and  sharp.  The  first  material  used  should  be  heavy  manilla  draft- 
ing-paper, laid  off  in  half-inch  squares ;  and  the  pupils  should  be  required 
to  cut  carefully  along  the  lines  until  they  can  follow  them  accurately. 

When  this  has  been  accomplished,  they  may  be  given  a  piece  of 
checked  gingham  to  cut  along  the  line  of  the  design.  When  the  pupils 
can  cut  a  straight  line,  they  may  draft  the  first  model  of  this  grade. 

First  draw  a  parallelogram  twenty-four  inches  long  and  twelve 
inches  wide,  on  the  blackboard,  explaining  what  a  parallelogram  is. 
Then  let  the  pupils  draw  and  cut  out  of  the  manilla  drafting-paper  a 
parallelogram  half  this  size,  which  can  be  done  easily,  as  the  paper  is 
laid  off  in  half-inch  squares.  After  this  let  each  pupil  cut  a  parallelo- 
gram of  the  gingham  twenty-four  inches  long  and  twelve  inches  wide. 
This  will  not  be  difficult,  the  straight  lines  of  the  checked  design  form- 
ing an  accurate  guide.  This  is  the  simple  outline  of  the  gingham  case, 
which  is  the  first  model  in  fine  thread  fabric. 

When  the  parallelogram  has  been  cut,  measure  at  one  end  three 
inches  each  way  from  both  corners,  draw  oblique  lines,  and  cut  off  the 


THIRD  GRADE   WORK. 


55 


corners.  From  the  lower  corners  of  the  oblique  lines,  measure  clown 
eleven  inches,  and  draw  a  dotted  line  to  show  where  the  parallelogram 
is  folded  to  form  the  case.  3 

Turn  in  the  edge  along  the 
last  thread  of  a  white  line  of 
squares,  crease  evenly  through 
the  center  of  the  next  line  of 
brown  squares,  and  baste  so  that 
the  design  is  not  broken.  Hem 
on  the  last  white  thread  of  the 
third  line  of  squares,  beginning 
to  count  after  the  first  edge  has 
been  turned  in.  Let  the  hem- 
ming be  done  on  this  last  white 
thread  of  the  third  square.  This 
may  seem  an  unnecessary  exac- 
tion ;  but  let  it  be  remembered 
that  the  educational  value  of  this 
system  is  lost  if  the  nicest  pre- 
cision is  not  observed.  Again, 
when  correct  habits  are  formed, 
it  is  as  easy  —  nay,  it  is  easier  — 
to  do  a  thing  well  as  ill. 

For  this  hemming,  No.  70 
white  cotton  thread  should  be 
used.  The  stitch  should  be  so 
lightly  taken  that  it  is  not  no- 
ticeable on  the  right  side  and 
along  the  first  white  thread  of  the  last  check. 

Turn  and  baste  the  straight  and  diagonal  ends  of  the  model  the 
same  as  the  sides,  being  careful  to  exactly  match  the  design  of  the 
model  to  a  thread.  When  these  hems  are  basted,  turn  them  back,  and 


12- 


Model  of  Gingham  Case. 


56 


SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


J 


overhand  them  with  fine,  shallow  stitches,  instead  of  hemming  in  the 
usual  way.  This  is  called  the  linen  hem,  as  it  is  used  for  table 
napery. 

When  the  model  has  been  hemmed,  fold  it  on  the  dotted  line,  ten 
inches  from  the  square  end,  which  leaves  four  inches  for  a  flap  at 
the  top  ;  hold  so  that  the  squares  match  exactly,  and  overhand  to- 
gether. 

This  model  is  finished  by  two  linen-tape  loops,  sewed  on  one  inch 
from  the  corners  of  the  flap.  The  tape  is  first  overhanded  together  the 

width   of    the    hem,   and   then   is   over- 

. ,       handed  onto    the    hem    and  across  the 

top.  The  flap  is  then  turned  down ; 
and  the  buttons,  which  should  be  cov- 
ered with  white  linen,  are  placed  in  the 
center  of  each  loop,  with  a  piece  of  tape 
under  each  to  hold  it  firm. 

By  the  work  of  this  grade  the  chil- 
dren are  made  capable  of  doing  at  least 
a  portion  of  that  most  important  part  of 
the  work  of  the  household,  —  the  mend- 
ing. The  teacher  should  make  it  a  point 

to  have  each  child,  as  soon  as  she  has  learned  to  do  a  certain  kind  of 
work  well,  undertake  that  work  at  home,  so  as  to  assist  her  mother. 
She  can  now  not  only  do  a  variety  of  stitches  and  darning,  but  she  can 
put  loops  on  the  towels  she  has  hemmed,  and  assist  in  plain  sewing ; 
and  she  should  be  encouraged  to  do  this  work  independently,  the  teacher 
examining  and  discussing  what  she  does  at  home.  She  should  also  be 
required  to  keep  her  own  clothes  mended.  While  faults  must  of  course 
be  recognized  and  pointed  out,  severe  criticism  of  work  done  indepen- 
dently should  be  avoided ;  and  merit  should  be  praised,  in  order  that 
the  children  may  not  be  discouraged,  but  be  incited  to  unaided  and 
original  effort. 


Model  of  Gingham  Case  Finished. 


THIRD   GRADE   WORK.  57 

QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS. 

What  is  drafting  ?     Ans.    It  is  drawing  a  plan  or  pattern. 

What  is  the  first  thing  to  be  done  when  one  is  going  to  draft  ?  Ans. 
To  take  the  measures  and  set  them  down. 

What  is  a  parallelogram  ?  Ans.  A  figure  bounded  by  four  straight  lines 
with  opposite  sides  parallel. 

What  is  the  shape  of  the  first  model  of  this  grade  as  it  is  drafted  ?  Ans. 
A  parallelogram. 

What  are  the  dimensions  ?  Ans.  Twenty-four  inches  long  by  twelve 
inches  wide. 

When  the  measures  have  been  taken,  and  the  paper  parallelogram  pattern 
drawn  and  cut,  what  is  the  next  thing  to  be  done  ?  Ans.  Pin  on  the  cloth, 
and  cut  very  carefully  on  a  thread  of  the  gingham. 

What  will  this  model  be  when  it  is  finished  ?     Ans.    A  case. 

How  is  the  flap  formed  ?  Ans.  At  one  end  measure  three  inches  each 
way  from  both  corners,  draw  oblique  lines,  and  cut  off  the  corners  by  them. 

What  is  the  next  thing  to  be  done  after  the  case  is  cut  ?  Ans.  Measure 
down  eleven  inches,  and  draw  a  dotted  line  to  show  where  the  parallelogram 
is  folded  to  form  the  case. 

When  this  is  done,  what  is  the  next  step  ?  Ans.  Turn  in  the  edge,  and 
crease  a  hem  along  the  second  line  of  the  squares  and  baste  so  that  they 
match  exactly. 

How  are  the  two  ends  of  the  model  finished  ?  Ans.  They  are  hemmed 
in  the  same  way  as  the  sides. 

How  is  this  hemming  done  ?     Ans     With  the  overhand  stitch. 

What  is  this  sort  of  hemming  called  ?  Ans.  Linen  hemming,  because 
it  is  used  for  table  linen. 

How  is  the  case  formed  ?  Ans.  By  doubling  it  along  the  line  drawn  to 
indicate  the  bottom  of  the  case,  bringing  the  squares  of  the  design  together 
so  that  they  match  exactly,  then  basting  and  overhanding  together. 

How  is  this  model  finished  ?  Ans.  With  two  linen  loops,  one  on  each 
side,  overhanded  together,  the  width  of  the  hem  hemmed  on  with  an  over- 
hand stitch,  and  two  buttons  sewed  on,  with  a  piece  of  tape  under  them  to 
make  them  strong. 


58 


SCIENTIFIC   SEWING   AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


SECOND  MODEL. 

The  second  model  in  this  grade  is  a  piece  of  canvas,  six  and  one- 
half  inches  square,  upon  which  the  first  two  kinds  of  darning  of  the 
course  are  done.  Let  the  pupil  measure,  draft,  and  cut  this  square, 
which,  although  small  and  simple,  is  somewhat  more  difficult  to  draft 
and  cut  than  the  gingham  with  its  clearly  defined  designs. 


Canvas  Darning  Square. 


When  it  is  cut,  let  it  first  of  all  be  overcast.  Then  put  the  edges 
together  and  crease  through  the  center,  and  run  a  thread  of  red  Saxony 
wool  either  side  of  this  crease,  taking  up  one  thread  and  leaving  one 
with  a  thread  of  canvas  between  the  two.  Fold  the  canvas  in  the 


THIRD    GRADE   "WORK.  59 

opposite  direction,  crease  through  the  center,  and  again  run  two  threads 
of  red  Saxony  wool  on  either  side  of  this  crease,  leaving  a  thread  of  can- 
vas between  them,  and  dividing  the  model  into  four  squares. 

From  these  lines  count  thirty-four  threads  of  canvas  each  way,  and 
put  in  a  line  in  the  red  wool,  taking  up  two  threads  and  leaving  two 
around  the  whole  model. 

Three  threads  from  the  line  which  forms  a  square  within  the 
square  put  in  a  solid  edge  line  of  blanket  stitch  in  red  Saxony  wool 
on  each  side  of  the  model.  The  fringing  of  the  model  outside  of  this 
blanket  stitching  is  left  until  the  last,  so  that  when  it  is  finished  it  may 
be  quite  fresh  and  clean. 

To  prepare  the  model  for  the  two  sorts  of  darns  which  it  exempli- 
fies, count  off  in  each  of  the  four  small  squares  twelve  threads  from 
the  side  and  six  threads  from  the  top  and  bottom.  Begin  at  the  top, 
and  run  an  outline  thread  to  the  point  six  threads  from  the  bottom. 
Count  ten  threads  to  the  right,  and  run  another  thread  like  the  first, 
beginning  six  threads  from  the  top,  and  ending  the  same  distance  from 
the  bottom  of  the  small  square.  This  forms  a  bar  ten  threads  wide 
and  twenty -two  long.  Outline  another  bar  crossing  this  at  right  angles 
in  the  same  way,  and  the  same  number  of  threads  wide  and  long. 
After  outlining  two  bars  of  this  sort  in  each  of  the  four  squares,  baste 
a  piece  of  cardboard  under  one  of  them. 

The  two  outlined  bars  under  which  the  cardboard  has  been  placed 
form  a  small  square  in  the  center  of  a  square.  Six  threads  beyond  the 
limit  of  this  square,  along  the  line  of  the  outline  bar,  the  darning  is  be- 
gun by  taking  up  one  thread  and  leaving  one,  until  the  center  square, 
formed  by  the  two  bare,  is  reached.  At  this, point  leave  ten  threads, 
.drawing  the  red  Saxony  darning  wool  straight  across,  and  again  take  up 
every  other  stitch  on  the  other  side  of  the  square  for  six  stitches.  Con- 
tinue this  until  the  opposite  outline  of  the  bar  is  reached.  Then  turn 
the  model,  and  fill  in  the  bar  that  crosses  this  at  right  angles  in  the 
same  way,  with  the  exception  that  the  loose  center  warp  threads  are 


60  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 

woven  under  and  over,  each  alternate  thread  being  taken  up  on  the 
needle.  In  the  opposite  diagonal  corner  repeat  this  darn,  which  is 
known  as  the  stocking  darn. 

The  darning  in  the  third  square  of  the  model  is  diagonal  or  linen 
darning.  The  first  threads,  which  represent  the  warp,  are  straight 
across,  like  those  in  stocking  darning.  Outside  of '  the  small  central 
square,  the  threads  are  woven  over  and  under  as  in  stocking  darning. 
When  the  center  is  reached,  take  up  two  threads,  and  leave  two  the  first 
time  across.  The  second  time  across,  first  take  up  a  single  thread,  and 
after  that  take  up  two  and  leave  two.  The  third  time  across,  first 
leave  two,  then  take  up  two  and  leave  two.  The  fourth  time  across, 
leave  the  first  thread,  and  after  that  take  up  two  threads  and  leave  two. 
Repeat  this,  beginning  with  the  first,  until  the  square  is  filled.  The 
fourth  square  is  done  in  the  same  way.  The  practical  application  of 
this  darning  is  to  baste  a  piece  of  cardboard  under  the  hole,  which  is 
then  cut  out  square.  If  it  is  linen  or  any  diagonal  weave,  use  the  linen 
darn ;  and  if  the  under  and  over  weave,  use  the  stocking  darn. 

QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  second  model  in  this  grade  ?  Ans.  A  square  of  canvas  six 
and  a  half  inches  each  way. 

What  is  the  first  thing  to  be  done  after  drafting  and  cutting  this 
square  ?  Ans.  To  overcast  the  edges. 

Then  what  should  be  done  ?  Ans.  Put  the  two  edges  together,  crease 
through  the  center,  and  run  a  thread  of  red  Saxony  either  side  of  this 
crease,  taking  up  two  threads  and  leaving  two. 

What  is  the  next  step  ?  Ans.  Fold  the  model  in  the  same  way  in  the 
opposite  direction,  crease,  and  run  a  thread  of  red  Saxony  either  side  of 
the  center. 

What  do  these  two  lines  put  in  from  opposite  sides  form  ?  Ans.  Four 
squares  within  the  model. 

What  is  the  next  step  ?    Ans.    Count  thirty-four  threads  each  way  from 


THIRD   GRADE  WORK.  61 

these  double  lines,  and  at  this  distance  run  a  line  of  red  Saxony  on  each 
side  of  the  model. 

What  is  next  to  be  done  ?  Ans.  Three  threads  from  this  line  of  run- 
ning that  bounds  the  square,  put  in  on  each  side  a  solid  line  of  blanket 
stitching  in  red  Saxony. 

How  many  kinds  of  darns  are  there  on  this  model  ?  Ans.  Two,  the 
stocking  and  the  linen  darn. 

How  is  the  stocking  darn  begun  ?  Ans.  Count  off  in  one  of  the  four 
small  squares  twelve  threads  from  the  sides  and  six  at  the  top  and  bot- 
tom. Begin  at  the  top,  and  run  an  outline  thread  to  the  point  six  threads 
from  the  bottom. 

Where  is  the  next  thread  placed  ?  Ans.  Count  ten  threads  to  the  right, 
and  run  another  thread  like  the  first,  which  forms  a  bar  ten  threads  wide. 

What  is  the  next  step  ?  Ans.  Outline  another  bar,  in  every  way  like 
this,  at  right  angles  with  it. 

Is  this  kind  of  crossed  bars  outlined  in  each  of  the  four  squares  ?  Ans. 
It  is. 

What  should  always  be  basted  under  material  that  is  to  be  darned  ? 
Ans.  A  piece  of  cardboard. 

After  the  cardboard  is  basted  under  the  crossed  bars,  how  is  the  darn- 
ing done  ?  Ans.  Six  threads  toward  the  edge  from  the  square  formed  by 
the  crossed  bars,  begin  the  darning  next  to  the  outline  thread,  taking  up  one 
thread,  and  leaving  one  until  the  center  square  is  reached. 

What  does  the  center  square  represent  ?  Ans.  The  space  to  be  darned  ; 
the  thread  is  taken  over  it  without  stitches. 

Where  do  the  stitches  begin  again?  Ans.  On  the  other  side  of  the 
square ;  one  thread  is  taken  up,  and  the  other  left  for  six  threads. 

What  do  these  threads  represent  ?     Ans.    The  warp. 

How  are  the  cross  threads  or  weft  of  stocking  darning  put  in  ?  Ans. 
Like  the  warp  thread,  except  in  the  center,  where  it  is  woven  under  and  over 
the  warp  threads. 

How  many  times  is  this  darn  repeated  in  model  ?     Ans.    Once. 

In  what  part  of  the  model  is  the  first  linen  darn  ?  Ans.  In  the  third 
square. 

How  is  it  put  in  ?     Ans.    The  warp  is  put  in  like  the  stocking  darn. 


62  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 

How  is  the  first  thread  of  the  weft  put  in  ?  Ans.  Until  the  center  of 
the  cross  bar  square  is  reached,  the  thread  is  put  in  over  and  under  the  can- 
vas threads,  the  same  as  the  stocking  darning.  At  the  center,  take  up  two 
threads  and  leave  two. 

How  is  the  second  thread  put  in  ?  Ans.  Like  the  first  until  the  center 
of  the  bar  is  reached,  then  take  up  one  thread,  and  after  that  leave  two  and 
take  up  two. 

How  is  the  third  thread  put  in  ?  Like  the  first  and  second  until  the 
center  is  reached,  then  begin  by  leaving  two,  take  up  two  and  leave  two. 

How  is  the  fourth  thread  put  in  ?  Ans.  The  same  as  the  others  as  far 
as  the  center,  then,  leaving  the  first  thread,  take  up  two  and  leave  two. 

How  is  this  darning  finished  ?  Ans.  The  way  in  which  the  first,  second, 
third,  and  fourth  threads  are  taken  up  are  repeated  until  the  square  is  filled. 

How  is  this  model  finished  ?  Ans.  By  raveling  out  the  edge  to  the 
blanket  stitching. 

How  are  these  darns  used  in  mending  ?  Ans.  A  piece  of  pasteboard 
is  basted  under  the  hole,  which  is  then  cut  square.  If  the  fabric  to  be 
darned  is  over  and  under  wove,  the  stocking  darn  is  used,  if  diagonal,  the 
linen  darn. 

THIRD  MODEL. 

For  the  third  model  in  this  grade,  which  is  for  the  knitted  darning, 
cut  a  piece  of  cardboard  three  and  one-half  inches  long  and  two  and 
one-half  inches  wide.  Draw  straight  lines  one-half  an  inch  from  the 
top  and  bottom.  This  should  be  done  by  the  pupil  without  assistance, 
with  directions  from  the  teacher.  The  lines  at  the  top  and  bottom  of 
the  card  should  be  divided  into  eighth-inch  spaces.  When  this  is  done, 
take  red  cotton  thread  and  stitch  in  each  division,  drawing  the  thread 
from  the  upper  to  the  lower  line,  and  so  setting  the  needle  that  the 
thread  is  not  straight,  but  slants  from  one  division  to  the  next. 

When  the  warp  threads  have  been  placed,  insert  the  needle  into  the 
first  division  from  the  wrong  side ;  take  up  the  first  double  thread,  and 
put  the  needle  back  through  the  same  division.  Bring  the  needle  up 


THIRD   GRADE   WORK.  63 


from  the  under  side  through  the  second  division,  take  up  the  second 
douhle  thread,  and  put  the  needle  back  through  the  second  division. 
Continue  this  across  the  width  of  the  model.  Then  put  the  needle 
through  the  first  loop,  but  not  through  the  cardboard,  taking  up  one 
thread  ;  then  take  up  the  two  threads,  put  the  needle  back  into  the  loop 
from  which  the  thread  comes,  and  take  up  with  this  loop  the  one  next 
to  it  together  with  a  single  thread,  drawing  them  down  to  form  a  loop. 
Continue  in  this  way  until  the  card  is  filled,  being  careful  not  to  fasten 
the  darning  at  any  point  to  the  cardboard.  This  darning  is  used  in 
knitted  fabrics,  and,  like  other  darning,  is  always  done  over  a  piece  of 
cardboard. 

QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  third  model  in  this  grade  ?     Ans.    The  knitted  darning. 

/  ow  is  the  model  prepared  ?  Ans.  Cut  a  piece  of  cardboard  three  and 
one-half  inches  long  and  two  and  one-half  inches  wide  ;  draw  lines  one-half 
an  inch  from  the  top  and  bottom,  and  divide  the  model  into  eighth-inch  spaces. 

How  is  the  warp  thread  put  in  ?  Ans.  With  red  cotton  thread  put  a 
stitch  in  each  division,  first  in  the  upper  and  then  in  the  lower  line,  drawing 
the  thread  from  one  to  the  other,  setting  the  needle  in  such  a  way  that  the 
thread  is  not  straight,  but  slants  from  one  division  to  the  other. 

How  is  the  weft  thread  put  in  ?  Ans.  Insert  the  needle  in  the  first 
division  from  the  wrong  side,  take  up  the  first  double  thread,  and  put  the 
needle  back  through  the  same  division.  Bring  the  needle  up  from  the  under 
side  through  the  second  division,  take  up  the  second  double  thread,  and  put 
the  needle  back  through  the  second  division.  Continue  this  the  width  of 
the  model. 

How  is  the  weft  thread  brought  back  ?  Ans.  Put  the  needle  through  the 
first  loop,  but  not  through  the  cardboard,  taking  up  one  thread  ;  then  take  up 
two  threads,  put  the  needle  back  into  the  loop  from  which  the  thread  comes, 
and  take  up  with  this  loop  the  one  next  to  it  with  a  single  thread,  and  draw 
down  into  a  loop. 

Is  this  way  of  putting  the  weft  thread  back  and  forth  continued  until 
the  model  is  finished  ?  Ans.  It  is. 


64  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING   AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 

This  darn  is  used  for  mending  what  sort  of  fabric?  Ans.  Knitted 
fabric. 

How  is  a  fabric  of  this  kind  prepared  for  mending  ?  Ans.  By  basting 
a  piece  of  cardboard  under  the  place  to  be  mended,  and  cutting  the  hole 
square. 

In  this  case,  is  either  the  warp  or  the  weft  fastened  to  the  cardboard  ? 
Ans.  Neither. 

QUESTIONS  FOR  REVIEW. 

What  is  drafting  ? 

What  is  a  parallelogram  ? 

What  is  the  first  thing  to  be  done  in  drafting  ? 

What  is  the  gingham  case  when  it  is  first  drafted  ? 

What  is  the  second  model  of  the  third  grade  ? 

How  many  kinds  of  darning  are  there  in  this  model  ? 

What  do  the  two  threads  in  darning  represent  ? 

Are  warp  threads  always  straight  ? 

What  thread  forms  the  pattern  in  darning  and  in  weaving  ? 

In  what  way  is  the  linen  darn  different  from  the  stocking  darn  ? 

How  does  the  knitted  darn  differ  from  either  of  these  ? 

How  are  these  different  kinds  of  darns  used  ? 

How  is  the  fabric  prepared  that  is  to  be  mended  with  a  darn  ? 

Why  should  the  place  to  be  mended  be  cut  square  ? 

Why  is  cardboard  basted  under  the  fabric  before  the  darning  is  done  ? 


MATERIALS  AND  THEIR  MANUFACTURE. 

COTTON. 

THERE  was  once  a  small  black  seed,  which,  with  many  others  quite 
like  it,  was  put  into  the  ground  one  day  in  March  on  an  island  in  the 
Atlantic  Ocean,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Savannah  River. 

If  this  little  black  seed  could  have  looked  forth  from  its  resting- 
place  in  the  dark,  moist  ground,  it  would  have  seen  a  broad  stretch  of 


THIRD   GRADE   WORK.  65 


water  with  low-lying  islands  all  about,  and  close  at  hand  the  coast  of 
Georgia.  But  though  it  had  not  eyes,  it  had  other  wonderful  natural 
gifts,  for  it  could  draw  different  kinds  of  nourishment  from  the  earth, 
the  air,  and  the  sun ;  and  these  things  enabled  it  to  become  something 
so  fine  and  so  useful  that  it  is  not  easy  to  believe  the  beginning  was 
only  a  little  black  seed. 

First,  it  put  slender  fibers  down  deep  into  the  ground  in  all  direc- 
tions. These  little  fibers  had  tiny  mouths  at  their  ends,  which  drank  in 
water  and  other  food.  After  this  a  green  shoot  went  straight  up  above 
the  top  of  the  ground,  and  this  put  out  small  leaves  and  branches.  All 
the  while  the  roots  held  the  upper  part  firm,  and  gave  it  all  that  it 
needed  for  nourishment.  It  was  not  long  before  green  buds  began  to 
show  themselves,  and  soon  pure  yellow  flowers,  with  reddish-purple 
spots  in  the  center,  unfolded. 

Little  by  little  the  seed  became  a  shrub-like  plant  between  three 
and  four  feet  high.  When  the  pretty  yellow  flowers  withered  and  fell, 
green  pods  took  their  place.  As  time  went  on,  these  pods  grew  until 
they  were  about  as  large  as  a  small  peach.  When  the  pods  turned  from 
green  to  brown  they  were  ripe  and  burst  open,  and  in  each  one  was  a 
beautiful  white  ball  of  fine,  soft  fiber.  This  was  the  cotton. 

The  cotton  family  is  a  large  one.  No  other  kind  of  cotton  is  so 
valuable  as  that  which  grows  where  the  little  black  seed  was  planted. 
It  is  called  Sea  Island  cotton,  and  it  is  the  very  best  in  the  world. 
This  is  because  the  fiber,  which  is  called  the  staple,  is  longer,  finer,  and 
stronger  than  any  other. 

Another  member  of  the  cotton  family  is  called  New  Orleans  or 
Upland  cotton.  Some  of  this  has  a  green  seed,  and  some  a  seed 
that  is  gray- white.  The  blo&som  of  this  cotton  is  either  pale  yellow 
or  white ;  and  the  white  fiber,  or  staple,  about  the  seeds  is  shorter 
than  the  Sea  Island  cotton.  There  are  many  other  varieties.  One, 
which  is  called  the  Cuba  Vine,  has  yellow  fiber,  out  of  which  nankeen 
is  made. 


66 


SCIENTIFIC    SEWING   AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


To  return  to  the  story  of  the  little  black  cotton  seed.      When  the 
pod  which  held  the  fiber  burst  open,   it  was   picked  and  taken  to  a 

machine  called  a  cotton-gin.  This 
occurred  late  in  August,  and  you 
should  have  seen  the  field  where 
this  cotton  plant  grew.  It  was  like 
a  great  silvery-white  sea,  and  was 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  sights  in 
the  world. 

Besides  the  fiber  in  the  cotton 
pod,  there  were  a  great  many  little 
black  seeds  —  many  more  than  it 
was  necessary  to  keep  for  planting. 
These  seeds  must  be  taken  out, 
and  for  this  reason  the  fiber  was  all 
made  to  pass  through  the  cotton 
gin.  It  was  Eli  Whitney  of  Massa- 
chusetts who  invented  the  cotton 
gin.  It  can  take  the  seeds  out  of 
three  hundred  pounds  of  cotton 
quicker  than  a  man  can  pick  them 
out  of  one  pound. 

Cotton  Field. 


The  seeds  were  put  into 
bags,  taken  to  a  mill,  and 
made  into  a  fine  and  useful 
oil.  What  was  left  after  the 
oil  was  pressed  out  was  put 
on  the  ground  to  enrich  it,  so 
that  what  was  planted  in  it  would  grow  well. 


The  Cotton  Gin. 


Part  of  the*  strong'- 


fibered  stalk  of  the  cotton  plant  was  used  for  making  a  basket,  and  the 


THIRD    GRADE   WORK.  67 


rest  for  making  a  coarse  sack.     So  every  part  of  the  plant  was  made 
useful,  but  the  fine  white  fiber  was  by  far  the  most  valuable. 

The  cotton  staple,  which  came  from  the  plant  of  which  the  little 
black  seed  was  the  beginning,  crossed  the  ocean,  and  went  to  Scotland, 
where  it  was  made  into  thread,  and  then  it  came  back  to  America  and 
was  sold. 


68  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


CHAPTER  V. 

FOURTH  GRADE  WORK. 

IN  this  grade  the  work  is  altogether  on  garment  fabrics ;  the  knot  is 
introduced,  and  the  first  garment  of  the  course  is  drafted  and  cut.  Up 
to  this  time  the  models  have  been  small,  and  the  necessity  for  a  per- 
fectly clean  apron,  used  exclusively  for  sewing,  has  not  been  so  great 
as  it  is  now  that  the  models  are  larger  and  more  easily  soiled.  The 
apron,  which  is  the  third  model  of  the  grade,  is  a  little  work  apron,  which 
will  be  found  a  serviceable  little  garment,  simple,  and  easy  to  cut  and 
make,  and  one  which  can  be  utilized  at  every  lesson. 

If  it  be  deemed  desirable,  the  first  model  of  this  grade  may  be  made 
the  last  of  the  preceding.  This  should  not  be  done  unless  the  work  of 
the  third  grade  has  been  so  well  done  that  more  practice  is  superfluous, 
and  there  is  still  time  for  which  no  work  is  provided. 

The  pupil  will  be  sufficiently  advanced  when  the  models  of  this 
grade  are  finished  to  work  on  silk,  and  so  a  simple  but  quaint  little 
fancy  bag  of  that  material  has  been  added  to  the  models.  This  bag  is 
not  in  the  regular  course  of  work,  but  is  intended  for  those  who  com- 
plete the  work  of  this  grade  in  time  to  finish  the  bag  before  the  close  of 
the  school  year. 

FIRST  MODEL. 

A  length  of  gingham  two  inches  wide  and  twenty-nine  inches  long, 
which  should  be  divided  into  halves  and  quarters  and  marked,  is  first 
measured  and  cut  by  the  pupil.  Then  thread  a  No.  8  sharp  needle 
with  No.  40  thread,  doubled,  and  put  in  a  line  of  running  one-fourth  of 
an  inch  from  each  edge.  In  doing  this  running,  the  stitches  should  be 


FOURTH   GRADE   WORK. 


69 


slipped  off  the  needle  without  taking  it  out  of  the  cloth,  as  by  remov- 
ing the  needle  a  stitch  is  made  uneven.     Draw  up  the  thread,  twist 
it  around  a  needle  or  pin  placed  at  the  end  of  the  gathers;  hold  the 
right  side  of    the  work  to- 
ward you,  and  place  the  gath-  ^ ^^ 

ers  with  a  needle,  holding 
the  thumb  directly  over  the 
gathers  as  they  are  placed. 
This  must  be  done  firmly 
and  carefully.  If  any  sound 
is  heard,  it  shows  that  the 
needle  is  being  drawn  too 
roughly  across  the  cloth  and 
may  injure  it. 

Then  let  the  class  cut 
two  gingham  bands  eight 
inches  long  and  two  inches 
wide,  and  fit  the  gathered  pieces  to  them.  When  the  bands  have  been 
carefully  basted  onto  the  gathered  piece,  hem  them  on  by  taking  up 
each  gather  as  a  stitch.  Turn  and  hem  down  in  the  same  way. 


Puff.     First  Model. 


QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWEKS. 

What  is  the  first  model  of  this  grade  ?  Ans.  A  strip  of  gingliam  two 
inches  wide  and  twenty-four  inches  long. 

What  is  the  first  work  on  this  model  ?  Ans.  To  divide  it  into  halves 
and  quarters,  and  after  marking  it,  to  put  in  a  line  of  running  one-half  an 
inch  from  each  edge. 

What  number  needle  and  thread  is  used  ?  Ans.  No.  8  needle  and  No.  40 
thread. 

How  should  the  thread  be  prepared  ?  Ans.  It  should  be  drawn  between 
the  thumb  and  finger  of  the  left  hand,  or  across  a  piece  of  wax,  to  prevent 
its  kinking;  and  then  doubled. 


70  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 

Is  the  needle  taken  out  of  the  cloth  in  doing  this  running  ?  Ans.  It  is 
not ;  the  stitches  are  slipped  off. 

Why  is  the  needle  left  in  the  cloth  in  running  for  gathering  ?  Ans.  If 
it  is  taken  out  it  makes  an  uneven  stitch. 

Upon  what  does  the  length  of  the  gathering  stitch  depend  ?  Ans.  It 
depends  on  the  length  of  the  cloth  to  be  gathered. 

When  the  running  is  finished,  what  is  done  ?  Ans.  The  threads  are 
drawn  up,  and  the  gathers  carefully  stroked. 

How  long  and  how  wide  are  the  bands  at  the  edge  of  this  model  ?  Ans. 
Eight  inches  long  and  two  inches  wide. 

How  is  the  gathered  piece  adjusted  to  these  bands  ?  Ans.  The  band  is 
divided  into  halves  and  quarters,  which  are  placed  even  with  the  divisions  of 
the  gathered  piece  after  it  is  drawn  up. 

How  are  the  three  pieces  put  together  ?  Ans.  The  bands  are  basted  onto 
the  gathered  piece  and  then  hemmed  on,  taking  up  a  gather  with  each  stitch. 
Then  the  bands  are  turned,  basted,  and  hemmed  in  the  same  way  on  the 
other  side. 

SECOND   MODEL. 

The  first  of  the  two  buttonhole  models  of  this  grade  is  a  strip  of  felt 
cloth  nine  inches  long  and  one  inch  wide,  in  which  are  cut  eight  button- 
holes an  inch  apart.  Let  the 
pupil  practice  cutting  button- 
holes in  a  strip  of  drafting- 
paper  until  she  can  cut  them 

Second  Model.    Buttonhole. 

properly.  Then  let  the 

teacher  cut  the  first  one  in  the  felt  strip,  and  the  pupil  the  others  as  she 
is  ready  to  work  them,  until  the  eight  are  cut  and  worked. 

The  buttonholes  should  be  worked  with  white  No.  40  thread.  As 
lias  already  been  said,  the  thread  should  be  looped  around  the  needle 
from  right  to  left  to  form  a  pearl  edge. 

The  second  buttonhole  model  is  a  piece  of  white  nainsook  three 
inches  wide  and  nine  inches  long.  Double  and  overhand  this  along  the 


FOURTH   GRADE   WORK.  71 

side  and  the  ends.  Cut  eight  buttonholes  one  inch  apart,  overcast  and 
work,  as  in  the  felt  model,  with  No.  40  thread.  Set  four  hooks  and 
four  eyes  alternately  between  these  buttonholes,  sewing  them  on  with 
a  buttonhole  stitch. 

QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS. 

What  are  the  second  models  ?     Ans.    Buttonhole  models. 

What  is  the  first  ?  Ans.  A  strip  of  felt  nine  inches  long  and  one  inch 
wide,  in  which  eight  buttonholes  are  cut. 

How  should  these  buttonholes  be  cut  ?     Ans.    Very  straight. 

How  should  they  be  worked  ?  Ans.  With  Uo.  40  cotton  thread  which 
should  be  looped  over  the  needle  from  right  to  left  to  form  a  pearl  edge. 

What  is  the  second  buttonhole  model  ?  Ans.  A  piece  of  nainsook  three 
inches  wide  and  nine  inches  long. 

How  is  this  prepared  for  buttonholes  ?  Ans.  It  is  folded  together, 
overhanded  at  ihe  sides  and  ends,  and  eight  buttonholes  are  cut  one  inch 
apart. 

How  are  these  buttonholes  worked  ?  Ans.  The  same  as  those  in  the 
felt  model. 

How  is  the  nainsook  model  finished  ?  Ans.  l>y  putting  on  hooks  and 
eyes  between  the  buttonholes,  arranging  them  alternately,  and  using  the 
buttonhole  stitch  in  sewing  them  on. 

THIRD   MODEL. 

The  third  model  is  the  gingham  apron,  which  is  the  first  garment 
drafted  and  cut.  Two  measures  are  taken,  one  across  the  chest  from 
one  arm  to  the  other,  and  the  other  from  the  center  of  the  chest  to 
within  an  inch  of  the  bottom  of  the  skirt,  which  is  the  length.  These 
measures  should  he  taken  by  the  pupil  with  the  teacher's  assistance. 

When  this  is  done,  let  the  pupil  draft  a  parallelogram  twice  as  wide 
as  the  chest  measure,  and  as  long  as  the  other  measure.  From  the  up- 
per right-hand  corner  measure  three  inches  down  and  two  and  one-half 
inches  from  the  same  corner  to  the  left,  and  draw  a  curve  for  the  arm 


72 


SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


•27 


\Bact\Band   | 

Model  of  Gingham  Apron. 


scye.  Cut  two  bands  three  and  one-half  inches  wide,  and  as  long  as  the 
chest  measure.  When  the  pattern  has  been  drafted  arid  cut,  lay  it  on 
a  double  fold  of  the  goods,  pin  and  cut.  Two  of  these  pieces  should  be 

cut,  one  for  the  front  and  one 
for  the  back.  The  center  of  the 
back  is  cut  open  down  the  entire 
length. 

When  the  apron  is  cut,  the 
under  arm  seams  are  basted  and 
sewed  in  a  very  narrow  seam, 
with  three  running  stitches  and 
one  backstitch.  The  seams  are 
then  trimmed,  turned,  and  back- 
stitched,  making  what  is  known 
as  a  French  fell.  Hem  the  two 
sides  of  the  back  in  hems  one- 
fourth  of  an  inch  wide,  and  the 
bottom  in  a  hem  an  inch  wide. 
Turn  a  hem  a  fourth  of  an  inch 
wide  about  the  arm  scye. 

Gather  the  top,  beginning 
one  and  one-half  inches  from 
the  arm  scye.  After  stroking 
the  gathers  and  basting  on  the 
bands,  hem  them  to  the  apron 
by  taking  each  gather  up  as  a 
stitch,  and  hem  them  down  in 
the  same  way.  Turn  a  hem  down 
the  length  of  the  string  and  across  one  end  a  quarter  of  an  inch  wide, 
and  across  the  bottom  one  inch  wide  ;  sew  on  the  shoulders,  and  tie.1 


1  It  has  been  found  that  the  white  apron  is  more  generally  satisfactory  for  a  sewing  apron 
than  the  gingham  one.     The  former  may,  therefore,  he  substituted  for  the  latter  if  desired. 


FOURTH   GRADE   WORK. 


73 


The  work  of  this  grade  is  finished  by  eight  review  lessons  in  practical 
darning  without  assistance  from  the  teacher.  First  there  should  be  the 
under-and-over  stocking  darn,  not  in  canvas,  but  on  a  stocking.  Let 
the  pupils  each  bring  a  stocking  that  requires  repairing.  In  the  same 
way  have  linen  and  knitted  darning  practically  applied.  If  there  are 
pupils  who  have  accomplished  all  the  work  of  the  grade  in  a  satisfac- 
tory manner  before  the  close  of  the  year's  work,  let  them  make  the  silk 
bag  as  a  reward  of  diligence. 

THE  SILK  BAG. 

Cut   a   straight  strip   of   silk  or 
ribbon  fifteen  inches  long ;   if  ribbon, 
six  inches  wide,  if  silk,  seven  inches 
wide.     In  each  end  of  this  piece  of 
silk  or  ribbon,  cut,  two  inches  from 
the  side  edge,  and  three-quarters  of 
an  inch  from  the  end  edge, 
four  buttonholes,  lengthwise 
of    the    goods    and    three- 
eighths    of    an    inch    long. 
These     buttonholes    should 
be  three  inches  apart. 

Hem  the  two  end  edges 
and,  if  it  is  silk,  the  side 
edges.  Overhand  the  two 
ends  together  an  inch  and 
one-half  from  each  edge, 
leaving  an  open  space  of 
three  inches  in  the  center. 
Overhand  the  side  edges  together.  Through  the  two  buttonholes  at 
each  side  run  a  narrow  ribbon  a  yard  long,  so  that  it  pulls  up  from  both 
sides,  and  tie  these  ribbons  in  a  bow  on  either  side.  As  is  obvious,  two 


Silk  Butterfly  Bag. 


74  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 

yards  of  ribbon  are  required.  When  it  is  drawn  up,  and  the  upper  edges 
held  together,  it  somewhat  resembles  a  butterfly,  and  is  often  called  by 
the  children  "  The  Butterfly  Bag."  It  is  a  particularly  convenient  little 
receptacle  to  use  in  traveling,  for  buttons  and  other  small  trifles,  as  it 
can  be  laid  perfectly  flat,  or  hung  up  by  the  ribbon  draw-strings. 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  third  model  of  the  fourth  grade  ?    Ans.   The  gingham  apron. 

How  many  measures  are  taken  ?  Ans.  Two,  —  one  across  the  chest  f rom 
one  arm  to  the  other,  and  one  from  the  center  of  the  chest  to  within  an  inch 
of  the  bottom  of  the  dress. 

When  the  measures  are  taken,  how  is  the  apron  drafted  ?  Ans.  Draw  a 
parallelogram  twice  as  wide  as  the  chest  measure  and  as  long  as  the  other 
measure. 

How  is  the  arm  scye  formed  ?  Ans.  From  the  upper  right-hand  corner, 
measure  down  three  inches  and  two  and  one-half  inches  to  the  left,  and 
draw  a  curve  from  one  point  to  the  other. 

Does  this  complete  the  drafting  ?  Yes  ;  and  the  paper  pattern  may  now 
be  cut. 

How  is  the  material  cut  ?  Ans.  Lay  the  pattern  on  a  doubled  fold  of 
the  goods ;  pin  and  cut. 

How  is  the  back  cut  ?  Ans.  Like  the  front,  except  that  it  is  cut 
through  the  center  the  entire  length. 

What  other  parts  are  there  to  this  apron  ?  Ans.  Two  bauds  three  and 
one-half  inches  wide  and  as  long  as  the  chest  measure,  and  two  strings  three 
inches  wide  and  eighteen  inches  in  length. 

.How  is  the  apron  put  together  ?  Ans.  The  under-arm  seams  are  basted, 
and  sewed  in  a  very  narrow  seam  with  three  running  stitches  and  one  back- 
stitch. They  are  then  turned,  and  sewed  on  the  other  side  with  a  backstitch. 

What  is  a  seam  finished  in  this  way  called  ?  Ans.  A  French  seam  or 
fell. 

How  are  the  backs  and  bottom  finished  ?  Ans.  The  backs  are  finished 
with  a  quarter-inch  hem,  and  the  bottom  with  a  hem  an  inch  wide. 

How  is  the  neck  finished  ?     Ans.    It  is  gathered  across  the  front,  except 


FOURTH   GRADE  WORK.  75 

a  space  one  and  one-half  inches  from  each  arm  scye.  After  the  gathers  are 
stroked,  and  the  bands  basted,  hem  them  on,  taking  a  gather  to  each  stitch. 
Turn  and  hem  them  down  in  the  same  way. 

How  are  the  strings  finished  ?  Ans.  A  hem  a  fourth  of  an  inch  wide  is 
turned  at  the  sides  and  one  end,  and  one  a  half  an  inch  wide  at  the  other 
end. 

Where  are  these  strings  placed  ?  Ans.  They  are  sewed  on  at  the  end  of 
the  chest  band,  and  tied  on  the  shoulders. 

How  is  the  apron  fastened  at  the  top  ?    Ans.    It  is  buttoned. 

What  is  the  last  regular  work  of  this  grade  ?  Ans.  Eight  lessons  in 
mending,  with  the  different  kinds  of  darning. 

QUESTIONS    FOR  REVIEW. 

Where  is  the  knot  first  used  ? 

How  is  gathering  done  ? 

How  should  buttonholes  be  cut  ? 

How  should  a  buttonhole  be  overcast  ? 

How  is  the  buttonhole  stitch  taken  ? 

What  is  the  first  garment  drafted  and  cut  ? 

What  is  the  shape  of  this  apron  before  the  arm  scyes  are  cut  ? 

How  many  measures  are  taken  ? 

For  what  is  this  apron  intended  ? 

How  many  different  kinds  of  stitch  are  used  in  the  apron  ? 

What  sort  of  a  seam  is  the  under-arm  seam  ? 

How  is  the  kind  of  darn  to  be  used  determined  ? 

MATERIALS    AND    THEIR    MANUFACTURE. 

SPOOLS. 

Up  in  the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  there  grew  a  tall,  slender,  graceful 
tree,  with  shining  white  bark  and  delicate  feathery  green  leaves.  The 
name  of  tins  tree  was  birch;  and  it  belonged  to  a  very  large  family, 
which  is  found  in  all  parts  of  the  Avorld  where  it  is  never  very  warm 
uiul  often  very  cold.  In  Greenland  there  is  no  other  kind  of  tree  than 


76 


SCIENTIFIC    SEWING   AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


Catkins  and  Leaues  of  Birch-Tree. 


the  birch.     This  tree,  which  grew  in  Scotland,  was  one  day  cut  down ; 
and  when  the  bark  had  been  taken  off,  it  was  placed  where  it  would 

get  perfectly  dry.  It  was 
then  put  on  a  wagon,  and 
taken  to  a  factory,  where 
there  was  what  is  called  a 
blocking  machine. 

A  blocking  machine  is 
one  which  saws  wood  into 
blocks  of  any  size  that  may 
be  desired.  When  the  wood 
of  the  birch  tree  had  been 
cut,  the  blocks  were  put  on 
a  machine  called  a  self-act- 
ing lathe,  and  in  an  instaiit 
they  came  out  beautifully 
finished  spools,  all  ready  for  the  thread  which  later  on  was  wound 
upon  them. 

Sometimes  spools  are  made  from  the  wood  of  ash-trees;  but  the  lar- 
gest number  and  the  best  are  made  of  the  birch,  which  is  one  of  the 
most  useful  of  trees.  Its  bark  and  leaves  are  used  for  medicine,  and 
also  for  making  yellow  dye ;  the  bark  is  made  into  drinking-cups,  shoes, 
hats,  and  small  boats  called  canoes ;  and  there  is  also  a  fine  oil  made 
from  it.  The  wood,  because  it  gives  forth  a  fresh,  sweet  fragrance 
when  burnt,  is  used  for  smoking  different  kinds  of  meat  and  fish. 

THREAD   AND    THE  MANUFACTURE   OF  COTTON. 

DID  you  ever  think  through  how  many  hands  the  cotton  must  pass 
before  it  can  become  a  nice,  strong,  smooth  thread,  several  hundred 
yards  long,  and  wound  evenly  upon  a  spool? 

In  the  beginning,  when  the  brown  pods  burst  open,  the  cotton  is  as 
white  as  newly  fallen  snow;  but  by  the  time  it  has  been  picked,  and  has 


FOURTH    GRADE   WORK. 


77 


passed  through  the  cotton-gin,  and  been  prepared  for  shipment,  it  has 
gathered  much  grit  and  dirt,  which  must  all  be  taken  out. 

After  it  has  been  thoroughly  cleaned,  it  is  placed  upon  feeding- 
tables,  and  from  these  tables  it  passes  to  big  revolving  rollers.     These 
rollers  are  called  cylinders,  and  are  studded  with  strong  teeth.     As  the 
cotton  flies  over  them  it  looks  like  a  great 
flock  of  white-winged  birds  ;  but  it  comes 
out   from   them   in  big  sheets.      It  then 
passes   over  another  series   of    cylinders, 
with  small,  sharp   teeth,  which   make   it 
into  a  fine  white  fleece  just  as  thick  in 
one  place  as  in  another. 

As  it  comes  from  these  cylinders,  the 
pretty  fleece  is  caught  in  a  tube,  and 
rounded  into  a  coil  so  light  and  fragile 
that  the  least  touch  breaks  it.  And  do 
you  know,  that  if  in  any  way  the  coil  is 
broken,  the  machinery  is  so  adjusted  that 
it  stops  at  once,  and  will  not  move  again 
until  it  is  perfectly  joined. 

When  the  cotton  has  been  made  into 
a  little  coil,  it  is  put  through  the  drawing-frame,  where  it  is  drawn  out 
and  doubled  until  all  the  fibers  lie  side  by  side.  After  this  it  is  slightly 
twisted,  and  then  wound  on  bobbins. 

The  thread  I  am  telling  you  about  was  made  in  one  of  the  largest 
factories  in  the  world ;  and  how  many  acres  do  you  think  it  occupied  ? 
Between  fifty  and  sixty  acres.  It  is  a  pretty  sight  to  see  the  white 
bobbins  lying  in  long  rows  in  the  big  building  in  which  they  are  wound, 
ready  for  what  is  known  as  the  spinning-mule.  The  spinning-mule  is 
a  machine  mounted  on  a  carriage  that  moves  backwards  and  forwards ; 
and  the  yarn  is  swiftly  transferred  from  the  fiy^d  bobbins,  and  is  twisted 
as  it  is  wound  onto  the  moving  spindles.  In  this  way  several  hundred 


A  Cotton  Pod. 


78  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


threads  are  twisted  at  the  same  time.  Some  of  them  are  twisted  for 
four  and  some  for  six  cord  thread.  Some  are  fine  and  others  coarse ; 
but  each  number  and  kind  of  thread  is  made  separately,  although  in  the 
same  factorjr. 

When  the  thread  is  twisted  as  much  as  is  necessary,  and  is  ready  to 
be  finished,  it  is  passed  from  the  bobbins  over  a  small  peg  of  glass  which 
acts  as  a  guide,  leading  the  swiftly  flying  thread  to  a  little  slit  in  an 
upright  bar  of  steel  called  a  cleaner.  This  cleaner  detects  a  knot  or 
unevenness  of  any  kind,  and  at  once  stops  the  swiftly  moving  thread. 
In  this  way  the  thread  is  rendered  absolutely  without  a  flaw  of  any  kind. 

When  the  thread  has  passed  through  the  cleaner,  it  is  taken  so  rap- 
idly through  a  flame  of  gas  that  it  is  not  scorched,  but  all  the  little  fibers 
on  it  are  burned  off.  If  you  wish  to  see  how  it  is  done,  take  a  piece  of 
darning-cotton,  and  pass  it  very  quickly  through  the  flame  of  a  lamp, 
and  you  will  find  that  all  the  little  fibers  are  burned  away,  but  the  cord 
is  not  injured. 

When  the  thread  has  been  passed  through  the  flame,  it  is  wound  by 
a  machine  that  fills  a  spool  almost  before  you  can  see  it.  The  spools 
are  then  labeled  with  a  little  round  bit  of  paper  on  each  end,  on  which 
is  printed  the  kind  of  thread,  where  it  is  made,  and  the  number.  The 
spools  are  then  packed  in  boxes,  and  are  ready  for  the  market. 

Cotton  which  is  to  be  used  for  making  cloth  is  cleaned  just  as  it  is 
when  it  is  to  be  made  into  thread.  Before  it  is  shipped  to  the  factories,  it 
is  sent  to  great  presses,  where  it  is  packed  so  tightly  that  it  is  almost  as 
hard  as  a  piece  of  wood.  To  clean  it,  and  make  it  light  and  soft,  the 
cotton  is  put  six  and  sometimes  seven  times  through  a  blower,  inside  of 
which  is  a  beater  of  steel  which  turns  many  times  in  a  second.  Below 
it  is  a  fan  which  revolves  very  fast,  blowing  out  the  dust,  seeds,  and 
sticks,  and  at  last  leaving  it  as  light  and  white  as  sea  foam. 

There  are  two  ways  of  spinning  cotton,  —  one  with  the  spinning-mule 
already  described,  and  the  other  on  the  throttle  or  spinning-frame. 


FOURTH   GRADE  WORK.  79 

If  you  will  take  a  piece  of  cotton  cloth  of  the  ordinary  kind,  such 
as  calico  or  muslin,  you  will  see  that  the  threads  go  under  and  over  each 
other  just  as  they  do  in  the  first  darn.  The  length-thread,  which  is  the 
warp,  is  usually  throttle  spun ;  and  the  weft,  which  is  the  thread  that 
goes  from  selvage  to  selvage,  is  spun  on  the  mule  frames.  The  warp 
threads  are  fixed  on  the  looms ;  and  in  common  cloth  the  weft  is  put 
under  and  over  them  by  means  of  shuttles,  which  fly  back  and  forth  so 
rapidly  that  the  eye  can  scarcely  follow  them. 

The  raising  of  cotton  and  its  manufacture  form  two  of  tha  chief 
industries  of  the  United  States.  Five-sevenths  of  all  the  cotton  used 
in  the  world  is  raised  in  the  Southern  States ;  and  a  great  deal  of  it  is 
made  into  cloth  and  thread  in  the  great  factories  of  this  country. 


80  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING   AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


CHAPTER   VI. 

WORK    OF    THE    FIFTH    GRADE. 

THERE  are  four  models  in  this  grade,  two  of  which  are  garments. 
The  latter  should  be  drafted,  cut,  and  finished  without  assistance  from 
the  teacher,  who  simply  directs  what  is  to  be  done,  as  the  pupil  should 
now  be  capable  of  working  from  clearly  denned,  explicit  directions.  In 
cutting  garments,  let  it  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  right-hand  side  is  in 
every  instance  the  back  part  of  the  garment. 

THE  FIRST  MODEL. 

The  first  model  of  this  grade  is  a  square  of  rather  coarse  linen,  meas- 
uring six  inches  on  each  side,  which  is  for  practice  in  finer  hemstitching 
than  has  been  done  before,  and  the  first  work  in  linen  marking. 

Three-quarters  of  an  inch  from  the  edge  on  each  of  the  four  sides 
of  this  square  of  linen  draw  three  threads.  Along  the  length  of  the 
model,  after  creasing  down  an  eighth  of  an  inch,  turn  a  hem  that  just 
reaches  the  line  of  drawn  threads.  When  these  hems  are  basted,  turn 
and  baste  tho  width  hems  in  the  same  way.  The  two  lengths,  and  after 
that  the  two  width  sides,  are  turned  so  that  the  four  corners  may  be 
uniform,  each  one  being  square. 

Let  this  edge  be  hemstitched  by  taking  up  three  threads  at  each 
stitch.  This  being  done,  have  each  pupil  write  or  print  her  name  in 
pencil  in  the  left-hand  lower  corner  as  a  guide  for  the  marking ;  stitch 
this  name  in  white  marking-cotton.  Then  go  Over  it  in  overhand  back- 
stitch in  red  marking-cotton,  picking  up  each  white  backstitch,  and  the 
model  is  finished. 


WORK    OF   THE    FIFTH    GRADE.  81 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  first  model  of  the  fifth  grade  ?  Ans.  A  piece  of  linen  six 
inches  square  to  be  hemstitched  and  marked. 

How  is  it  prepared  for  hemstitching  ?  Ans.  Three  threads  are  drawn 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  from  each  edge  of  the  model. 

How  is  the  hem  turned  ?  Ans.  It  is  first  turned  in  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  along  the  length  edges,  and  the  hem  is  turned  to  meet  the  line  of  drawn 
threads.  The  width  edges  are  then  turned  in  the  same  way,  so  that  a 
square  is  formed  at  each  corner. 

Why  are  the  two  length  edges  turned  and  then  the  width  edges  ?  Ans. 
That  the  corners  may  be  uniform. 

When  the  hemstitching  is  finished,  how  is  the  marking  done  ?  Ans. 
The  name  is  first  written  or  printed  with  a  pencil. 

What  is  the  next  step  ?  Ans.  The  name  is  then  carefully  outlined  in 
backstitching  with  white  marking-cotton. 

How  is  it  finished  ?  Ans.  Overhand  the  white  backstitching  with  red 
marking-cotton,  taking  up  each  stitch  of  the  backstitching. 

SECOND  MODEL. 

The  second  model  in  this  grade  is  a  little  fancy  sewing  apron,  which 
may  be  made  of  white  cambric,  barred  mull,  nainsook,  or  any  kind  of 
light  printed  goods.  There  are  three  measures  taken,  —  a  waist  measure, 
a  measure  from  the  waist  line  on  the  left  side  over  the  shoulder  and 
across  the  back  to  the  waist  line  on  the  right  side,  and  the  length  of 
the  dress  skirt  less  two  inches. 

For  the  skirt  of  the  apron,  take  the  length  of  the  dress  skirt  less 
two  inches,  and  cut  it  thirty  inches  wide.  For  the  band  at  the  waist, 
cut  a  strip  lengthwise  of  the  goods,  one  inch  longer  than  the  waist 
measure,  and  four  arid  one-half  inches  wide.  The  one  inch  is  added  to 
the  waist  measure  to  allow  for  the  lap.  Cut  the  shoulder  pieces  also 
lengthwise  of  the  goods,  two  and  one-half  inches  wide,  and  as  long  as 
the  measure. 


82  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


Cut  the  ruffles  one  inch  wide  for  the  shoulder  pieces,  allowing  half 
as  much  more  than  the  length  for  the  fullness.  After  gathering  these 
ruffles,  and  laying  the  gathers,  baste  them  on  either  side  of  the  shoulder 
pieces.  Hern  the  ruffles  on  to  the  shoulder  pieces  ;  turn  and  face  with 
a  three-quarter  inch  bias  facing.  Explain  that  bias  facing  is  preferable, 
as  a  rule,  to  straight,  because  it  is  more  elastic. 

Turn  up  the  lower  edge  of  the  apron  skirt  in  an  inch-wide  hem. 
Finish  the  back  edges  with  a  half-inch  hem.  Gather  this  skirt,  and 
baste  on  to  the  waistband  so  that  the  two  back  edges  are  three  inches 
from  the  ends  of  the  band. 

Sew  the  shoulder  pieces  onto  the  waistband  with  the  two  edges  com- 
ing close  together  in  the  center  of  the  front.  Work  a  buttonhole  in 
the  other  two  ends  of  the  shoulder  pieces,  cross  in  the  back,  and  but- 
ton an  inch  and  a  half  each  side  of  the  center  of  the  back  onto  the 
band.  Finish  the  band  with  a  button  and  buttonhole. 

PLAIN  SEWING   APRON. 

The  lower  part  of  this  sewing  apron  is  like  the  one  already  de- 
scribed. For  the  upper  part,  take  a  measure  from  the  highest  part 
of  the  shoulder  to  the  waist,  and  another  from  one  arm  to  the  other  across 
the  fullest  part  of  the  chest.  The  first  measure  is  used  for  length,  and 
the  other  for  width.  Fold  the  goods  to  be  used  lengthwise,  and  cut 
an  oblong  piece  according  to  the  measures.  Curve  the  upper  part  for 
the  neck.  Turn  a  quarter-inch  hem  along  the  sides,  and  face  the  neck 
curve  with  a  bias  piece  of  the  goods.  Gather  the  lower  part  one- 
quarter  of  an  incl i  from  the  edge,  and  stroke  carefully.  Draw  the 
gathering-thread  until  it  measures  five  inches,  and  fasten.  Place  the 
center  of  the  gathers  on  the  center  of  the  apron  band,  and  baste.  Stitch, 
add  a  piece  of  finishing-braid,  and  hem  down  on  both  sides.  Make  a 
buttonhole  in  the  right  side  of  the  apron  band,  and  place  a  button  on 
the  left  side.  The  upper  part  of  this  little  apron  is  held  in  place  by 
safety  pins  at  the  shoulder. 


WORK   OF  THE   FIFTH    GRADE.  83 


QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  third  model  of  the  fourth  grade  ?   Ans.    A  sewing  apron. 

How  many  measures  are  taken  for  this  apron  ?  Ans.  Three  —  the  waist 
measure,  the  length  from  the  waist  over  the  shoulder  to  the  waist  on  the 
other  side,  and  the  length  of  the  skirt  of  the  dress  less  two  inches. 

How  is  the  skirt  of  this  apron  cut  ?  Ans.  As  long  as  the  skirt  measure, 
and  thirty  inches  wide. 

How  is  the  waistband  cut  ?  Ans.  Four  and  one-half  inches  wide,  and 
one  inch  longer  than  the  waist  measure. 

Why  one  inch  longer  than  the  waist  measure  ?  Ans.  To  allow  for  the 
lap. 

How  are  the  shoulder  pieces  cut  ?  Ans.  As  long  as  the  measure,  and 
two  and  one-half  inches  wide. 

How  are  they  finished  ?  Ans.  With  an  inch-wide  ruffle  on  each  side, 
and  around  one  end. 

How  much  longer  than  the  bands  are  these  ruffles  cut  ?  Ans.  One-third 
longer  than  the  bands,  with  four  inches  added  for  the  two  ends,  in  which  the 
buttonholes  are  placed. 

How  is  the  skirt  finished  at  the  bottom  and  sides  ?  Ans.  With  a  two- 
inch  hem  at  the  bottom,  and  a  half -inch  hem  at  the  sides. 

How  is  the  skirt  put  onto  the  band  ?  Ans.  First  fold  the  two  ends  of 
the  band  together  and  mark.  Then  gather  the  skirt,  and  when  the  gathers 
have  been  stroked,  baste  the  skirt  so.  that  each  side  is  three  inches  from  the 
center  of  the  band  at  the  back. 

How  are  the  shoulder  pieces  placed  ?  Ans.  Put  the  two  ends  on  in  such 
a  way  that  the  edges  meet  in  front,  and  hem  them  on  the  under  side  of  the 
band.  Cross  in  the  back  so  that  the  piece  from  the  left  side  of  the  front  is 
buttoned  on  one  and  one-half  inches  from  the  right  side  of  the  back,  and  the 
other  in  the  same  way,  one  and  one-half  inches  from  the  left  side  of  the 
back. 

How  is  the  apron  finished  ?  Ans.  With  a  button  on  the  right  side  and 
a  buttonhole  on  the  left  side  of  the  belt. 


84  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


THIRD  MODEL. 

More  difficult  than  anything  that  has  yet  oeen  cut  and  drafted  are 
the  drawers  of  this  model.  As  in  the  apron,  the  first  thing  is  to  draft 
and  cut  a  paper  pattern.  First  take  two  measures,  —  a  loose  waist 
measure,  and  the  length  from  the  waist  to  the  knee. 

Draw  a  parallelogram  with  half  the  waist  measure,  to  which  four 
inches  have  been  added  for  the  two  horizontal  lines,  and  the  distance 
from  the  Avaist  to  the  knee  for  the  vertical  lines.  The  four  inches  added 
to  half  the  Avaist  measure  are  for  gathers.  As  the  four  lines  of  the  par- 
allelogram are  help  lines,  draw  them  dotted.  Let  the  base  line  of  this 
parallelogram  be  A,  the  left-hand  vertical  line  B,  the  upper  horizontal 
line  C,  and  the  right-hand  vertical  line  D.  In  these  drawers,  as  in  all 
the  garments  of  this  system,  the  right-hand  side  is  the  back. 

Draw  a  dotted  vertical  line,  E,  through  the  center  of  the  parallelo- 
gram. DraAv  a  dotted  horizontal  line,  F,  one  inch  below  half  the  dis- 
tance between  A  and  C,  extending  it  four  inches  on  each  side  beyond 
lines  B  and  D.  DraAv  a  dotted  oblique  line  from  the  end  of  line  F  to 
A  on  either  side,  and  Avithin  these  a  slightly  curved  cutting-line.  TAVO 
inches  below  line  A  draAV  a  straight  drafting-line  three-fourths  of  an  inch 
longer  than  line  A  on  each  side,  and  connect  with  line  A  by  an  oblique 
line.  This  forms  the  hem  at  the  bottom. 

From  the  end  of  line  F,  on  the  right-hand  side,  which  is  to  be  the 
back  of  the  draAvers,  draAV  a  straight  dotted  line,  H,  that  extends  tAvo 
and  one-half  inches  above  line  C.  DraAV  a  dotted  line,  I,  four  inches  to 
the  left,  and  connect  line  C.  From  the  center  of  line  I,  draAV  an  oblique 
cutting-line  to  the  end  of  line  F,  and  another  connecting  it  Avith  dotted 
line  E,  which  divides  the  back  from  the  front. 

For  the  front,  extend  line  C  one  inch,  and  from  this  point  to  the 
end  of  line  F  draw  an  oblique  line.  From  the  end  of  line  C  to  the  ver- 
tical line  E  make  the  dotted  line  C  a  cutting-line.  From  line  C,  five 
inches  down  line  E,  cut  an  opening  for  a  placket,  if  the  drawers  are  to 


WORK   OF   THE    FIFTH    GRADE. 


85 


be  closed ;  if  they  are  to  be  open  in  the  center,  this  is  not  necessary. 
When  this  pattern  has  been  drafted  and  cut  by  the  pupil  until  she  can 
do  it  with  perfect  ease,  let  the  pattern  be  laid  on  the  doubled  goods,  and 
the  drawers  cut.  The  material  used  for  these  drawers  should  be  Lons- 
dale  muslin  of  good  quality. 

Take  a  piece  of  Lonsdale  muslin  six  inches  square,  fold  diagonally 
and  cut,  slightly  curving  the  seam.     Baste  the  seam  one-half  an  inch 


Model  of  Drawers. 


from  the  edge,  backstitch,  trim  one  edge  so  that  it  can  be  turned  under, 
baste  and  fell.     This  is  to  teach  the  child  how  to  sew  and  finish  a  bias 


seam. 


The  pupils  are  now  ready  to  put  the  drawers  together.  First  the 
curved  seam  that  forms  the  lower  part  of  the  leg  is  basted  a  half-inch 
from  the  edge,  is  backstitched,  trimmed  and  felled  as  the  seam  just 
finished  was.  In  basting  these  seams,  care  should  be  taken  to  have  the 


86  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


Child's  Drawers  and  Underwaist. 


WORK    OF   THE    FIFTH    GRADE.  87 

two  fronts  face  each  other,  and  the  reason  for  this  should  be  explained 
to  the  pupils. 

Turn  and  fell  the  hem  at  the  bottom  of  the  leg.  Then  join  the 
center  seam  so  that  the  two  leg  seams  are  exactly  opposite  each  other. 
If  desired,  this  seam  may  be  joined  three  inches  from  the  top  in  front, 
and  from  that  point  faced  and  left  open. 

To  finish  the  placket,  take  a  piece  of  muslin  ten  inches  long  and 
one  and  one-half  inches  wide.  Seam  this  around  the  placket  so  that  the 
seam  is  on  the  right  side.  Turn  in  the  edges  of  this  strip,  and  bring 
over  and  fell.  The  fullness  where  this  strip  is  turned  forms  a  sort  of 
gusset. 

For  the  front  band,  add  one  and  one-half  inches  to  half  the  waist 
measure  for  the  length,  and  cut  it  four  and  one-half  inches  wide.  The 
back  band  is  the  same  width,  but  is  one  and  one-half  inches  shorter  than 
half  the  waist  measure.  Both  bands  should  be  cut  lengthwise  of  the 
goods. 

The  gathering  of  the  front  and  back  should  begin  four  inches  from 
each  side.  When  the  gathering  is  done  and  the  gathers  are  stroked, 
the  bands  should  be  basted  on  and  felled,  taking  up  a  gather  with  each 
stitch ;  then  turned,  basted,  and  felled  in  the  same  way.  There  should 
be  a  buttonhole  in  the  two  ends  and  the  center  of  each  band,  making 
six  in  all.  These  drawers  are  to  be  buttoned  onto  an  underwaist. 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  third  model  of  the  fifth  grade  ?     Ans.    A  pair  of  drawers. 

What  is  the  first  thing  to  be  done  ?     Ans.    Draft  and  cut  a  pattern. 

What  is  the  first  thing  to  be  done  in  preparing  to  draft  a  pattern  ? 
Ans.  Take  the  measures. 

How  many  measures  are  taken  for  drawers  ?  Ans.  Two  —  a  loose  waist 
measure,  and  the  length  from  the  waist  to  the  knee. 

How  is  the  pattern  drafted  from  these  measures  ?  Ann.  First  a  paral- 
lelogram is  drawn  with  half  the  waist  measure,  to  which  four  inches  is 


88  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 

added  for  gathers,  for  the  base  horizontal  lines,  and  the  distance  from  the 
waist  to  the  knee  for  the  vertical  lines. 

Is  this  whole  parallelogram  in  cutting-lines  ?  Ans.  No ;  only  the  base 
line  A  and  the  right-hand  vertical  line  D  are  cutting-lines,  the  lines  B  and 
C  being  help  lines. 

What  is  the  next  line  ?  Ans.  A  dotted  vertical  line,  E,  through  the 
center  of  the  parallelogram. 

What  is  the  next  step  ?  Ans.  Draw  a  dotted  horizontal  help  line,  F, 
one  inch  below  half  the  distance  between  A  and  C,  extend  it  four  inches  on 
each  side  beyond  lines  B  and  D. 

How  is  the  drafting  continued  ?  Ans.  Draw  a  dotted  oblique  help  line 
from  the  end  of  line  F  to  A  on  either  side,  and  within  these  a  slightly  curved 
cutting-line. 

How  is  the  hem  provided  for  ?  Ans.  Two  inches  below  line  A  draw  a 
straight  drafting-line,  three-fourths  of  an  inch  longer  than  the  line  on  either 
side,  and  connect  the  two  with  an  oblique  line. 

Which  side  of  the  pattern  is  the  back  ?     Ans.    The  right-hand  side. 

How  is  the  back  drafted  ?  Ans.  From  the  end  of  line  F  on  the  right- 
hand  side,  draw  a  vertical  dotted  help  line  H,  extending  two  and  one-half 
inches  above  line  C,  and  from  the  end  of  this  line  draw  a  dotted  help  line, 
r,  four  inches  to  the  left,  and  connect  with  line  C. 

How  are  the  next  lines  drawn  that  finish  the  back  ?  Ans.  From  the 
center  of  line  I,  draw  an  oblique  cutting-line  to  the  end  of  line  F  at  the 
right,  and  another  to  the  end  of  line  E  at  the  left. 

How  is  the  front  drafted  ?  Ans.  Extend  line  C  an  inch,  and  from  this 
point  draw  an  oblique  line  to  line  F. 

What  finishes  the  drafting  of  this  pattern  ?  Ans.  Make  the  help  line 
C  from  E  to  B  a  cutting-line,  and  cut  down  line  E  five  inches  for  a  placket. 

What  sewing  is  done  before  the  drawers  are  put  together  ?  Ans.  A 
diagonal  seam  through  a  six-inch  square  of  muslin  is  cut,  sewed,  and  felled. 

What  is  this  for  ?   Ans.    To  show  how  a  bias  seam  is  sewed  and  felled. 

How  are  the  drawers  put  together  ?  Ans.  The  curved  seams  that  form 
the  lower  part  of  the  leg  are  basted  a  half-inch  from  the  edge,  care  being 
taken  to  have  the  two  fronts  come  together. 


WORK    OF   THE    FIFTH    GRADE.  89 

Why  should  the  two  fronts  come  together  ?  Ans.  Because  otherwise  both 
parts  will  be  for  one  leg. 

How  are  these  seams  sewed  ?  Ans.  They  are  first  backstitched  and  then 
felled. 

What  is  the  next  thing  to  be  done  ?    Ans.    Turn  the  hems  at  the  bottom. 

How  is  the  center  seam  finished  ?  Ans.  It  is  either  basted,  with  the  leg 
seams  exactly  opposite  each  other,  backstitched  and  felled,  or  it  is  joined 
three  inches  in  the  front,  and  then  faced  and  left  open. 

When  the  center  seam  is  closed,  where  are  the  plackets  placed  ?  Ans. 
On  each  side ;  and  they  are  five  inches  long. 

How  are  the  plackets  finished  ?  Ans.  Take  a  piece  of  muslin  ten 
inches  long  and  one  and  one-half  inches  wide,  and  seam  this  on  around  the 
plackets  so  that  the  seam  is  on  the  right  side.  Turn  in  the  edge  of  this 
facing,  bring  it  over  on  the  seam,  baste,  and  fell. 

What  does  this  fullness  where  this  facing  is  turned  form  ?  Ans.  A 
kind  of  gusset. 

How  are  the  bands  cut  ?  Ans.  For  the  front  band,  take  half  the  waist 
measure,  and  add  one  and  one-half  inches  for  the  length,  and  make  it  four 
and  one-half  inches  wide.  The  back  band  should  be  the  same  width,  but 
one  and  one-half  inches  shorter  than  half  the  waist  measure. 

If  the  drawers  are  not  closed,  how  should  the  band  be  cut  ?  Ans.  Four 
and  one-half  inches  wide,  and  as  long  as  the  waist  measure,  with  one  inch 
added  for  the  lap. 

How  should  the  bands  be  placed  ?  Ans.  The  gathering  should  begin  four 
inches  from  each  side,  and  when  the  gathers  have  been  stroked,  fell  on  the 
bands,  taking  up  a  gather  at  each  stitch,  then  turn,  and  fell  in  the  same  way. 

How  are  the  buttonholes  placed  ?  Ans.  If  the  drawers  are  closed,  and 
two  bands  are  used,  there  is  one  buttonhole  in  the  end  of  each  band  and 
one  in  the  center,  making  six  in  all. 

If  one  band  is  used,  how  are  the  buttonholes  placed  ?  Ans.  There  is 
one  in  the  front,  one  at  each  side,  and  two  behind,  making  five  in  all. 


90 


SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


FOURTH  MODEL. 

The  fourth  and  last  model  of  this  grade  is  a  five-inch  square  of 
flannel  in  which  is  cut  a  right  angle  opening,  the  shape  of  a  tear.     First 

baste  this  piece  of  flannel  onto 
a  piece  of  cardboard,  then,  with 
silk  the  exact  color  of  the  ma- 
terial, darn  straight  across  in 
a  very  fine  running  stitch,  tak- 
ing up  the  nap  only,  carefully 
drawing  the  thread  just  even 
with  the  cloth  which  is  being 
mended.  Continue  this  until 
the  incision  is  perfectly  closed. 
When  this  model  is  com- 
pleted, let  the  pupil  review 

Fourt*  Mode,.     Wangled  Tear.  a11   the    Ailing    that    has     been 

taught,  not  on  canvas,  but  on 

fabrics.  The  work  should  be  prepared  and  completed  without  assistance 
from  the  teacher,  and  with  the  neatest  precision,  before  the  pupil  is  per- 
mitted to  begin  the  work  of  the  next  grade. 


QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  last  work  in  this  grade  ?  Ans.  A  flannel  darn  and  a  re- 
view of  all  the  darning. 

What  is  the  flannel  or  tear  darn  ?  Ans.  It  is  a  three-cornered  opening 
representing  a  tear. 

How  is  it  prepared  for  darning  ?  AUK.  It  is  basted  very  carefully  onto 
cardboard,  in  such  a  way  that  it  lies  perfectly  smooth,  with  the  edges 
together. 

How  is   the   darn  ins?  done  ?    Ans.    With  silk  the   exact  shade   of  the 


WORK    OF   THE    FIFTH    GRADE.  91 


goods,  .and  with  stitches  that  take  up  the  nap  only,  and  are  very  close 
together. 

Do  the  stitches  run  both  ways  ?  Ans.  No;  they  only  extend  straight 
across  the  opening. 

How  many  kinds  of  darning  have  now  been  taught  ?  Ans.  Four 
kinds,  —  stocking  darning,  linen  darning,  the  knitted  darn,  and  the  tear 
darn. 

QUESTIONS    FOR    REVIEW. 

What  is  the  first  work  of  the  fifth  grade  ? 

Of  what  use  is  hemstitching  ? 

For  what  is  the  marking  taught  in  this  grade  used  ? 

Explain  how  linen  hemstitching  is  done. 

How  is  marking  done  ? 

What  is  the  second  model  of  the  fifth  grade  ? 

How  is  it  trimmed  ? 

In  cutting  ruffles,  how  much  fullness  should  be  allowed  ? 

Should  facings,  as  a  rule,  be  bias  or  straight  ? 

How  many  measures  are  taken  before  beginning  to  draft  drawers  ? 

What  are  they  ? 

What  geometrical  figure  is  first  drawn  in  drafting  a  pattern  for  drawers  ? 

Draft  a  pattern  for  drawers  from  measures  given. 

What  are  help  lines,  and  how  are  they  drawn  ? 

What  are  cutting  lines,  and  how  are  they  drawn  ? 

Is  the  pattern  laid  on  a  single  or  double  piece  of  the  goods  when  cutting 
the  drawers  ? 

WThat  is  a  fell  ? 

In  sewing  up  drawers,  how  can  one  be  sure  that  the  two  parts  will  not 
be  both  for  one  side  ? 

What  is  a  placket  ? 

How  is  a  placket  faced  and  finished  ? 

What  darn  is  taught  in  this  grade  ? 

In  what  way  is  this  darn  different  from  the  stocking  and  the  linen 
darns  ? 


92  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 

How  many  darns  have  been  taught  ? 

What  are  they  ? 

Why  is  it  necessary  to  know  different  sorts  of  darns  ? 

How  must  all  darns  be  prepared  ? 


MATERIALS    AND    THEIR    MANUFACTURE. 

HOW  SILK  IS  MADE. 

SILK  is  not  only  a  very  beautiful,  but  a  very  wonderful  fiber,  for  it 
is  made  either  by  insects  or  worms.  There  are  many  insects  that  make 
themselves  little  houses  out  of  silk  spun  from  their  bodies.  The  webs 
and  nests  of  spiders  are  of  silk. 

The  silk  fiber  from  which  fabrics  are  made  is  spun  by  the  mulberry 
silkworm,  and  beautiful  cloth  was  first  made  from  it  by  the  Chinese,  far- 
ther back  than  we  have  record  of.  They  did  not  want  anybody  to  know 
their  art ;  and  they  kept  it  such  a  secret  that  every  one  supposed  that  the 
cloth  was  made  from  some  kind  of  a  plant,  like  flax  or  cotton.  At  last  a 
traveler,  about  the  year  550  A.D.,  found  out  the  secret,  and  brought  away 
some  eggs  of  the  silkworm  in  a  hollow  bamboo  cane.  These  eggs  were 
hatched,  and  in  this  way  silk  culture  became  known  to  all  the  world. 

The  famous  writer  and  Greek  philosopher,  Aristotle,  in  speaking  of 
the  silkworm,  says  that  it  is  "a  great  worm  that  has  horns,  and  so 
differs  from  other  worms."  :  This  big  worm,  when  it  is  full  grown,  first 
spins  a  web  about  itself  of  finest  fiber,  often  four  thousand  yards  in 
length.  The  worm  moves  as  it  spins,  in  such  a  way  that  the  fiber  is 
wound  round  and  round  as  regularly  as  thread  is  wound  onto  a  spool. 
In  three  days  the  house  of  silk  is  complete.  Then  the  worm  lies  still 
until  it  becomes  a  moth,  which  is  similar  to  a  butterfly.  This  moth 
moistens  the  silk  house,  which  is  called  a  cocoon,  and  makes  its  way 

1  Ask  the  children  if  they  think  that  Aristotle  was  correct  in  saying  that  other  worms 
have  not  horns. 


WORK   OF   THE   FIFTH    GRADE. 


93 


out.  Very  soon  after  the  moth  leaves  the  cocoon  it  "begins  to  lay 
eggs,  and  in  three  or  four  days  has  laid  from  four  hundred  to  seven 
hundred. 

The  eggs  of  the  silk-moth  are  carefully  put  into  trays,  and  kept 
where  the  temperature  does  not  vary,  being  neither  too  warm  nor  too 
cold ;  and  soon  the  little  worms  begin  to  hatch.  A  paper  punctured  full 
of  small  holes  is  laid  over  the  trays, 
in  order  that  the  worms  may  crawl 
through  these  holes.  In  this  way 
fragments  of  shell,  which  adhere  to 
them  and  would  kill  them,  are 
scraped  off. 

As  soon  as  the  silkworms  are 
freed  from  their  shells,  they  begin  to 
eat,  and  they  do  nothing  else  all  day. 
Their  food  is  mulberry  leaves,  and 
the  worms  hatched  from  an  ounce  of 
eggs  will  eat  a  ton  of  leaves  in  a 
month.  The  worms  change  their 
coats  almost  every  week.  At  the 
end  of  a  month  they  are  full  grown. 
They  then  creep  up  on  branches  pro- 
vided for  them,  and  begin  to  spin  silk  houses  for  themselves,  in  which 
they  become  moths.  Only  a  few  of  these  moths  are  permitted  to  live, 
and  eat  their  way  out  of  the  cocoon,  for  that  injures  the  silk.  Enough 
to  lay  eggs  are  left  on  the  branches ;  the  others  are  removed  and  killed 
by  baking  the  cocoons  in  an  oven,  exposing  them  to  the  hot  rays  of  the 
sun,  or  shutting  them  up  in  a  close  room  where  charcoal  is  burning. 

It  is  a  great  deal  of  work  to  care  for  silkworms,  and  where  labor  is 
valuable  they  are  not  very  profitable.  Then,  too,  they  require  so  much 
to  eat  that  they  can  only  be  successfully  cultivated  where  there  are 
qreat  plantations  of  mulberry-trees. 


Silkworm,  Cocoon,  and  Moth. 


94  SCIENTIFIC   SEWING  AND   GARMENT  .CUTTING. 


THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  HILK. 

The  silk  which  the  worm  has  spun  is  as  fine  as  the  web  of  a  spider 
before  it  is  unwound.  The  cocoons  are  assorted,  and  those  of  similar 
color  are  placed  together.  When  this  has  been  done,  they  are  put  into 
tepid  water.  If  the  water  is  too  cold,  the  gum  of  the  cocoon  will  not 
soften  enough  to  permit  the  fiber  to  unwind  well ;  and  if  it  is  too  warm, 
it  will  sink  to  the  bottom.  Girls  who  are  experts  stir  the  cocoons  until 
they  soften,  and  the  end  of  the  fiber  is  found. 


Silk  Winding. 

A  number  of  these  delicate  silk  fibers  are  put  together  through  an 
eyelet,  and  after  being  crossed  and  twisted  are  wound  on  a  reel.  When 
these  threads  are  dried,  they  cling  together,  and  form  a  compact  fiber 
of  raw  silk. 

From  the  reels,  this  silk  fiber  is  wound  upon  bobbins  in  such  a  way 
that  the  threads  are  all  in  diagonal  lines.  These  bobbins  are  next 
placed  on  the  spinning-frame  and  slightly  twisted.  Then  these  strands 
are  cleansed,  wound  together  upon  a  reel,  and  twisted  into  one  thread. 


WORK   OF   THE   FIFTH   GRADE. 


95 


The  thread  is  then  reeled  into  big  skeins ;  and  as  it  is  moist,  it 
must  be  thoroughly  dried,  thus  making  it  ready  to  be  sold  to  manufac- 
turers by  the  pound.  As  these  skeins  are  somewhat  stiff,  they  are 
whirled  about  in  hot  soap  and  water  to  make  them  flexible.  They  are 
then  dried,  packed  into  linen  bags,  boiled  in  water,  and  again  dried. 
The  silk  is  now  white  and  soft,  and  is  ready  to  be  sent  away  to  be 


Reels  and  Skeins  of  Silk. 

colored,  and  woven  into  ribbons  or  some  of  the  many  different  kinds  of 
beautiful  silk  cloth. 

Spun  silk  is  made  of  the  waste  silk  and  poor  cocoons.  It  is  not 
reeled,  but  is  separated  by  machinery  into  strands  about  a  foot  long. 
These  are  spun  together  as  cotton  is,  and  made  into  yarn  called  spun 
silk,  which  is  by  no  means  as  durable  as  the  other  kinds  of  silk. 

There  are  over  two  hundred  silk  mills  in  this  country ;  but  most  of 
the  silk  used  here  is  brought  from  China,  as  there  are  not  many  silk- 
worms raised  in  the  United  States. 


96  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING   AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


CHAPTER   VII. 

SIXTH    GRADE  WORK 

THE  mechanical  process  of  cutting  garments  by  chart,  which  has 
been  so  long  in  use,  seems,  upon  first  examination,  to  be  much  more 
simple  and  teachable  than  the  scientific  method  of  this  system.  That 
it  is  not  so  has  been  abundantly  proved  by  repeated  and  continued  ex- 
periments with  hundreds  of  children.  Since  the  understanding  of  gen- 
eral laws  makes  all  things  plain,  when  the  principal  facts  upon  which 
this  system  is  based  are  understood,  the  process  is  found  to  be  as  simple 
as  it  is  reasonable.  The  system  does  indeed  tax  the  understanding  at 
every  step,  and  it  is  the  aim  of  its  authors  that  it  should  do  so.  Any- 
thing less  than  this  would  defeat  its  chief  object,  which,  as  has  been 
repeatedly  affirmed,  is  to  incite  independent  constructive  thought. 

While  the  aim  of  the  system  is  primarily  educational,  it  has  also,  as 
a  means  to  an  immediate  end,  advantages  which  are  easily  demonstrated. 
The  subtle  philosopher  Amiel,  in  his  famous  journal,  declares  that  every 
human  being  is  a  unique  example,  and  should  be  so  considered,  and  that 
satisfactory  results  cannot  be  obtained  in  any  other  way.  This  certainly 
is  true  in  fitting  the  human  form.  It  is  of  course  possible  to  strike  a 
general  average ;  but  when  it  comes  to  that  nicety  which  distinguishes 
excellence,  it  can  only  be  obtained  by  considering  each  individual  as 
separate  and  exceptional.  The  scientific  system  of  garment  cutting 
makes  this  consideration  of  the  individual  one  of  its  fundamental  prin- 
ciples, as  will  be  seen  in  the  drafting  of  the  waist  of  this  grade.  As  a 
result,  the  work  of  fitting  is  almost  entirely  eliminated.  •  In  the  school 
where  this  system  has  been  successfully  taught  for  the  past  six  years, 
in  more  than  one  instance  the  graduating  gown,  which  finishes  the 


SIXTH    GRADE   WORK.  97 


course,  has  been  completed  without  being  fitted,  and  proved  in  every 
way  perfectly  satisfactory. 

Although  the  waist  of  this  grade  is  a  simple  underwaist,  yet  as  it 
is  the  foundation  of  all  others,  the  drafting  and  cutting  of  it  should  be 
very  thoroughly  understood.  The  measures  should  be  taken  and  the 
pattern  drafted  until  it  can  be  done  with  the  utmost  ease,  without  sug- 
gestion from  the  teacher. 

CHIL  D  '  S    UNDER  WA  IS  T. 

First  there  are  eight  measures  to  be  taken  as  follows  ;  A  bust  and 
waist  measure ;  a  front  measure,  which  is  taken  from  the  hollow  of  the 
neck  to  the  waist;  a  front  width,  which  is  one-fourth  of  the  bust  meas- 
ure ;  a  back  length,  which  is  taken  from  the  neck  to  the  waist ;  a  back 
width,  from  one  arm  to  the  other ;  a  side  length,  from  under  the  arm  to 
the  waist;  and  a  shoulder  measure,  from  the  neck  to  the  point  of  the 
shoulder.  If,  as  occasionally  happens,  the  pupil  is  not  equal  to  the 
mathematical  calculations  where  it  is  necessary  to  divide  parts  of  inches, 
each  fraction  of  an  inch  in  the  measures  may,  for  convenience,  be  made 
a  whole  one.  This  must  be  done  by  adding  the  part  of  an  inch  required 
to  make  the  measures  in  even  inches.  This  is  not  recommended,  and 
should  not  be  done  when  it  can  be  avoided,  as  garments  cut  from  pat- 
terns drafted  in  this  way  require  much  more  fitting  than  when  the  exact 
measures  are  used. 

When  the  measures  have  been  taken  and  tabulated,  draw  a  paral- 
lelogram, with  half  the  bust  measure  for  the  base  line  A,  and  the  front 
length  with  two  and  one-half  inches  added  for  the  vertical  line  B. 
Draw  the  second  horizontal  dotted  help  line  C  and  the  dotted  vertical 
line  D,  which  completes  the  parallelogram.  The  help  lines  are  drawn 
dotted  to  distinguish  them  from  the  cutting-lines  which  later  on  form 
the  outline  of  the  pattern. 

Measure  the  side  length  from  line  A  on  the  vertical  lines  B  and  D, 


98 


SCIENTIFIC   SEWING  AND   GARMENT  CUTTING. 


and  from  these  two  points  draw  a  dotted  help  line  E.  Measure  the 
front  length  from  line  A  on  the  vertical  lines  B  and  D,  and  draw  a 
dotted  help  line  F.  Measure  one-fourth  of  the  bust  measure  on  line 
A  from  the  left-hand  lower  right  angle  of  the  parallelogram,  and  also 
on  line  C  from  the  corresponding  upper  right  angle,  and  draw  a  straight 
dotted  help  line  G. 


B 


Child  's  Underwaist. 


For  the  back,  which  is  always  the  right-hand  side,  take  half  the  back 
width,  and  measure  it  on  the  base  line  A  from  the  lower  left-hand  right 
angle,  and  on  C  from  the  upper  left-hand  right  angle  of  the  parallelogram, 
and  between  these  points  draw  a  dotted  help  line  H.  From  the  angle 
of  lines  C  and  D  down  line  D,  measure  one-half  inch,  point  1,  and  along 
C  an  inch  and  a  half  to  point  2,  and  connect  with  a  slightly  curved 
cutting-line.  From  point  2,  draw  an  oblique  cutting-line  to  the  inter- 


SIXTH    GRADE    WORK.  99 

section  of  lines  H  and  F.  Measure  off  the  length  of  the  shoulder  on 
this  line  to  point  3.  From  this  point,  draw  a  slightly  curved  line  to 
the  intersection  of  lines  E  and  H,  which  forms  the  back  arm  scye.  Add 
three-fourths  of  an  inch  to  lines  A  and  C  at  the  right,  and  draw  a 
dotted  vertical  help  line  I.  Again  add  an  inch  to  each  of  these  lines, 
and  draw  a  vertical  cutting-line  J.  These  additions  of  an  inch  and 
three-fourths  to  each  side  of  the  back  are  for  the  lap  and  the  buttons ; 
when  the  waist  is  finished,  the  two  edges  of  the  back  should  come 
exactly  together  at  line  D. 

Measure  two  and  one-half  inches  down  line  B  from  the  angle  of  lines 
B  and  C  to  point  4,  and  the  same  distance  on  line  C  to  point  5,  and  con- 
nect with  a  curved  line  which  forms  the  neck.  From  point  5,  draw 
an  oblique  line  to  the  intersection  of  lines  F  and  H,  and,  from  the 
neck,  measure  the  shoulder  length  to  point  6.  From  point  6  to  the  in- 
tersection of  lines  E  and  H,  draw  a  curve  for  the  front  arm  scye. 

A  child's  waist  measure  is  often  larger  than  the  bust ;  when  this  is 
the  case,  add  whatever  the  waist  is  in  excess  of  the  bust  on  both  sides 
of  line  H  below  the  arm  scye.  If  the  bust  measure  is  more  than  the 
waist  measure,  lay  off  one-half  of  the  difference  on  either  side  of  line 
H  along  line  A,  slanting  in  the  shape  of  a  dart  along  line  H  from  the 
intersection  of  lines  E  and  H. 

As  has  already  been  said,  this  pattern  should  be  drafted  and  cut 
oy  the  pupil  until  it  can  be  done  with  perfect  facility.  Then  let  the 
pattern  of  the  front  and  back  be  laid  on  a  double  fold  of  the  goods,  and 
cut,  allowing  one-half  an  inch  on  the  sides  and  shoulders  for  seams. 
Baste  the  shoulder  and  side  seams  along  the  line  of  the  tracing,  and 
after  backstitching,  trim  one  seam  and  fell.  Face  the  neck  and  arm 
scyes  with  a  bias  piece  one  inch  wide.  Finish  the  bottom  with  a  deep 
facing,  and  set  buttons  to  correspond  with  the  buttonholes  in  the  bands 
of  the  drawers.  To  cut  bias  pieces  for  facing  this  waist  or  for  any 
other  purpose,  begin  at  the  corner,  and  fold  back  two  inches.  Fold 
over  and  over  until  a  piece  as  long  as  the  strips  required  is  folded. 


1OO  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING   AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 

Divide  the  strip  thus  folded  into  parts  as  wide  as  is  desired,  and  cut 
through.  In  this  way  long  strips  may  be  cut  at  one  stroke  of  the  shears. 
The  back  is  finished  by  turning  down  the  right  side  one  and  one-half 
inches,  and  the  left  side  one  inch.  The  buttons  on  the  left  side  should 
be  set  three-fourths  of  an  inch  from  the  edge,  and  the  buttonholes  one- 
fourth  of  an  inch  from  the  right  side.  This  brings  the  waist  together 
along  line  D. 

UNDERWAIST  OF  MANILLA  PAPER. 

In  order  that  the  pupil  may  gain  practice  without  waste  of  material, 
let  the  measures  be  taken  and  reduced  to  quarter  inches,  and  a  waist  be 
drafted  and  cut  of  manilla  paper.  In  drafting  this  paper  waist,  allow 
one-eighth  of  an  inch  for  the  side  and  the  shoulder  seams.  When  it  has 
been  drafted  and  cut,  join  the  seams  by  backstitching.  After  making 
a  few  of  these,  the  pupil  will  be  able  to  handle  materials  with  ease,  and 
the  waste  which  mistakes  entail  will  be  avoided. 

If  the  difference  between  the  bust  and  waist  is  four  inches,  one  dart 
is  sufficient,  and  there  is  no  slant  at  the  back ;  if  the  difference  is  fiv« 
inches,  there  should  be  one  dart,  and  one  inch  slant  at  the  back ;  if  the 
difference  is  seven  inches,  there  should  be  two  darts,  and  one  inch  slant 
at  the  back. 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  first  work  of  the  sixth  grade  ?  Ans.  Drafting,  cutting,  and 
making  an  underwaist. 

How  many  measures  are  taken  for  an  underwaist  ?  Ans.  There  are 
eight  measures  taken  for  the  underwaist. 

What  are  they,  and  in  what  order  are  they  taken  ?  Ans.  They  are  taken 
in  the  following  order :  The  bust  and  waist  measure ;  the  front  length  from 
the  neck  to  the  waist ;  one-fourth  of  bust  measure  ;  the  back  length  from 
the  neck  to  the  waist ;  the  back  width  from  one  arm  to  the  other ;  the 
side  length  under  the  arm ;  the  length  from  the  neck  to  the  point  of  the 
shoulder. 

Can  this  pattern  be  cut  without  using  parts  or  fractions  of  inches  ?   Ans. 


SIXTH    GRADE   WORK.  ,  ...   >    ,.    101 


Yes  ;  by  making  the  measure  a  whole  instead  of  a  part  of  an  inch.  The  part 
of  an  inch  must  always  be  added  and  not  subtracted. 

Will  a  waist  fit  as  well  when  the  measures  are  made  in  even  inches  ? 
Ans.  No;  it  will  require  much  more  fitting. 

What  is  done  with  the  measures  as  they  are  taken  ?  Ans.  They  are  set 
down  at  the  right  on  the  drafting-paper  in  the  order  in  which  they  are  taken. 

After  the  measures  are  taken,  what  is  the  next  thing  to  be  done  ?  Ans. 
Draw  a  parallelogram  with  half  the  bust  measure  for  the  base  line  A,  and 
the  front  length  with  two  and  one-half  inches  added  for  the  vertical  line  B. 

What  sort  of  lines  are  C  and  D  of  this  parallelogram  ?  Ans.  They  are 
dotted  help  lines. 

Why  are  help  lines  drawn  dotted  ?  Ans.  To  distinguish  them  from  the 
cutting-lines  that  form  the  outline  of  the  pattern. 

What  is  the  next  thing  to  be  done  ?  Ans.  Measure  on  lines  B  and  D 
from  line  A  the  side  length,  and  draw  a  dotted  help  line  E. 

Which  is  the  next  measure  used  ?  Ans.  The  front  length  is  measured 
from  line  A  on  lines  B  and  D,  and  the  dotted  help  line  F  is  drawn  from  one 
to  the  other. 

What  is  the  next  step  in  drafting  this  waist  pattern  ?  Ans.  Measure 
one-fourth  of  the  bust  measure  on  line  A  from  the  left-hand  lower  right 
angle  and  from  the  left-hand  upper  right  angle  on  C,  and  draw  a  dotted  help 
line  from  one  to  the  other. 

Which  side  in  this  system  is  always  the  back  ?    Ans.    The  right-hand  side. 

How  is  this  pattern  for  the  back  drafted  ?  Ans.  Take  half  the  back 
width  on  lines  A  and  C,  measuring  from  the  upper  and  lower  right-hand 
angles,  and  from  these  points  draw  the  dotted  help  line  H,  and  from  the 
angle  of  lines  C  and  D  measure  one-half  an  inch  down  line  D,  point  1,  and 
an  inch  and  one-half  along  line  C,  point  2,  and  connect  with  a  slightly  curv- 
ing line  for  the  back  of  the  neck. 

How  is  the  shoulder  line  obtained?  Ans.  From  point  2  to  the  inter- 
section of  lines  H  and  F  draw  an  oblique  line,  and  mark  the  shoulder  meas- 
ure, point  3. 

How  is  the  back  arm  scye  obtained  ?  Ans.  A  slightly  curved  line  is 
drawn  from  point  3  to  the  intersection  of  lines  E  and  H. 


102  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


How  is  the  lap  for  the  buttons  and  buttonholes  at  the  back  formed  ? 
Ans.  Add  three-fourths  of  an  inch  to  lines  A  and  C  at  the  right,  and  draw 
a  vertical  help  line  I ;  again  extend  lines  A  and  C  one  inch,  and  draw  a  ver- 
tical cutting-line  J. 

How  is  the  right  side  of  the  back  of  the  waist  finished  ?  Ans.  By  turn- 
ing in  an  inch  and  one-half  and  hemming. 

How  is  the  left  side  of  the  back  finished  ?  Ans.  By  turning  in  one  inch 
and  hemming. 

Where  are  the  buttonholes  cut  ?  Ans.  In  the  left  side,  one-quarter  of 
an  inch  from  the  edge. 

Where  are  the  buttons  set  ?  On  the  right  side,  three-fourths  of  an  inch 
from  the  edge. 

How  is  the  curve  for  the  front  part  of  the  neck  drafted  ?  Ans.  Meas- 
ure two  and  one-half  inches  down  line  B  from  the  angle  of  C  and  B,  point 
4,  and  the  same  distance  on  line  C  to  point  5,  and  connect  with  a  curved 
line. 

How  is  the  shoulder  of  the  fronts  drafted  ?  Ans.  From  point  5  draw 
an  oblique  line  to  the  intersection  of  lines  F  and  H,  and  from  the  neck  lay 
off  the  shoulder  measure  to  point  6. 

How  is  the  front  arm  scye  obtained  ?  Ans.  From  point  6  to  the  inter- 
sections of  lines  E  and  H,  draw  a  curve. 

If  the  waist  measure  is  larger  than  the  bust  measure,  what  change  is 
made  in  the  pattern?  Ans.  Half  the  difference  is  added  along  line  H, 
gradually  slanting  to  the  arm  scye. 

If  the  bust  measure  is  more  than  the  waist  how  is  the  pattern  changed  ? 
Ans.  One-half  the  difference  between  the  waist  and  bust  measures  is  laid 
off  on  line  A  from  line  H,  these  points  being  connected  by  slanting  lines  with 
the  point  of  intersection  of  lines  E  and  H. 

When  the  pattern  has  been  drafted  and  cut,  how  should  the  waist  be 
cut  ?  Ans.  It  should  be  laid  on  a  double  width  of  the  goods  and  cut. 

How  much  should  be  allowed  on  the  shoulder  and  side  seams  ?  Ans. 
One-half  inch  on  each. 

How  should  this  waist  be  put  together  ?  Ans.  The  side  and  the 
shoulder  seams  should  be  basted,  backstitched,  trimmed,  and  felled. 


SIXTH    GRADE    WORK.    '  103 

How  should  the  neck  and  arm  scyes  be  finished  ?  Ans.  With  bias 
facings,  an  inch  wide. 

How  should  these  facings  and  all  bias  pieces  be  cut  ?  Ans.  Begin  at 
the  corner  of  a  piece  of  cloth  and  fold  back  two  inches,  then  fold  over  and 
over  until  a  piece  as  long  as  the  strip  required  is  folded.  Divide  this  strip 
into  parts  as  wide  as  is  required,  and  cut  through. 

How  is  the  bottom  of  the  waist  finished  ?  Ans.  With  a  straight  fa- 
cing, two  inches  wide. 

How  is  the  back  of  this  waist  closed  ?  Ans.  With  button  and  button- 
holes. 

How  are  the  buttons  on  the  lower  part  of  the  waist  set  ?  Ans.  To 
correspond  with  the  buttons  in  the  band  of  the  drawers. 


UNDERSKIRT    WITH  SHOULDER    STRAPS   OR    WAIST. 

For  this  underskirt  take  the  length  one  inch  shorter  than  the  dress- 
skirt,  and  to  this  add  two  inches  for  a  hem.  For  a  child  of  from  three 
to  five  years  of  age,  take  two  and  one-half  widths  of  cambric  or  Lons- 
dale  muslin,  and  for  a  child  of  from  five  to  twelve  years,  take  three 
widths  of  either  of  these  materials. 

Join  the  seams  of  the  skirt  in  what  is  known  as  a  French  fell,  by 
first  sewing  up  with  three  running  stitches  and  one  backstitch ;  then 
trim,  and  turn,  backstitching  the  seam  on  the  other  side. 

Take  the  center  of  a  width  for  the  front,  and,  directly  opposite,  cut 
a  placket  five  inches  deep.  Turn  a  half-inch  hem  on  the  right  side, 
and  a  quarter-inch  on  the  other;  lap  the  right  side  over  the  left,  and 
stitch  at  the  bottom. 

For  the  band,  cut  a  strip  of  goods  six  and  one-half  inches  wide,  and 
one-half  an  inch  longer  than  the  waist  measure.  This,  when  it  is  seamed 
on  and  doubled,  makes  a  band  three  inches  Avide.  Divide  this  band 
and  also  the  skirt  into  four  equal  parts ;  gather  the  two  fronts  on  one 
thread,  and  each  of  the  back  divisions  on  a  separate  thread.  Lay  the 
gathers,  and  baste  onto  the  band,  bringing  the  center  of  the  front  of  the 


104  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 

band  and  skirt  together,  and  the  side  divisions  of  the  skirt  one-half  an 
inch  back  of  the  side  divisions  of  the  band.  Fell  on,  taking  up  a  gather 
with  each  stitch,  then  turn  and  hem  down  in  the  same  way.  Close 
with  buttons  and  buttonholes. 

Cut  the  shoulder  straps  three  inches  wide,  double,  and  overhand 
them  together.  The  two  ends  of  these  straps  are  felled  onto  the  band 
together,  and  either  side  of  the  front  on  an  inch  slant.  These  straps 
are  brought  over  the  shoulders,  and  fastened  to  the  band  one  inch  from 
the  center  of  the  back  on  either  side. 

When  this  skirt  is  made  with  the  waist,  the  latter  is  not  faced,  but 
is  divided  like  the  band,  and  is  turned  in  and  felled  onto  the  skirt,  and 
then  faced  with  a  two-inch  facing. 

The  work  of  this  grade  is  finished  with  eight  lessons  in  practical 
darning.  This  work  should  be  done  without  any  assistance  from  the 
teacher,  the  pupil  selecting  the  sort  of  darn  suitable  for  the  fabric  to 
be  mended,  and  also  the  wool  or  thread  with  which  the  work  is  to  be' 
done.  Let  nothing  less  than  perfect  work,  independently  done,  be 
accepted. 

QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS. 

How  long  should  an  underskirt  be  cut  ?  Ans.  One  inch  shorter  than 
the  dress  skirt,  with  two  inches  added  for  a  hem. 

How  wide  should  it  be  ?  Ans.  For  a  child  from  three  to  five,  two  and 
one-half  widths  of  Lonsdale  muslin  or  cambric  should  be  used,  and  for  a 
girl  from  five  to  twelve  years,  three  widths  of  these  materials  are  required. 

How  should  this  skirt  be  seamed  up  ?  Ans.  It  should  first  be  sewed 
up  on  the  right  side  with  three  running  stitches  and  one  backstitch,  and 
then  trimmed,  turned,  and  sewed  onto  the  other,  making  a  French  seam. 

Where  is  the  placket  placed,  and  how  is  it  finished  ?  Ans.  Take  the 
middle  of  a  width  for  the  front,  and  directly  opposite  cut  a  placket  five 
inches  deep,  turn  a  half-inch  hem  on  the  right  side,  and  a  quarter-inch  on 
the  other,  lap  the  right  over  the  left,  and  stitch  at  the  bottom. 

How  is  the  band  cut?     Ans.  Take  a  strip  lengthwise  of  the  goods,  six 


SIXTH    GRADE   WORK.  105 

and  one-half  inches  wide,  and  one-half  an  inch  longer  than  the  waist  meas- 
ure, and  divide  it  into  four  parts. 

How  is  the  skirt  gathered  ?  Ans.  First  divide  into  four  parts  and  notch. 
Gather  the  front  half  on  one  thread,  and  the  two  back  parts,  each  on  a  sep- 
arate thread. 

How  is  the  skirt  put  onto  the  band  ?  Ans.  After  the  gathers  are  stroked, 
put  the  front  notch  in  the  skirt  even  with  the  corresponding  notch  in 
the  band,  and  the.  side  notches  in  the  skirt  one-half  an  inch  back  of  t'hose 
in  the  band,  baste  and  fell,  taking  up  one  gather  with  each  stitch. 

How  is  the  buttonhole  placed  ?  Ans.  On  the  right  side  of  the  band 
near  the  end,  so  that  it  laps  from  right  to  left. 

How  are  the  straps  placed  ?  Ans.  They  are  hemmed  onto  the  inside  of 
the  band  in  front,  with  the  edges  together,  so  that  they  can  be  crossed  on 
the  chest,  and  are  brought  over  the  shoulders,  and  felled  onto  the  band  on 
each  side  one  inch  from  the  center. 

How  are  the  shoulder  bands  cut  and  made  ?  Ans.  They  are  lengths  of 
cloth  three  inches  wide,  doubled,  and  overhanded  together. 

When  the  skirt  is  a  part  of  the  underwaist,  how  is  it  finished  ?  Ans. 
The  waist  is  not  faced,  and  the  skirt  is  put  on  in  the  same  way  as  on  a  band, 
and  the  facing  is  then  felled  onto  the  skirt  and  waist. 

What  finishes  the  work  of  the  sixth  grade  ?  Ans.  Eight  practice  les- 
sons in  the  four  kinds  of  darning  that  have  been  taught. 

If  time  permits,  some  of  the  garments  which  the  pupil  has  learned  to 
make  may  be  made  for  tbe  doll  of  the  department  before  the  work  of 
this  grade  is  closed. 

QUESTIONS   FOR    REVIEW. 

What  is  the  first  thing  to  do  in  drafting  a  waist  pattern  ? 
How  many  measures  are  taken  ? 
What  are  they,  and  in  what  order  are  they  taken  ? 

When  the  measures  are  taken,  what  is  the  first  thing  to  be  done  in  draft- 
ing a  waist  ? 

Which  of  the  measures  are  used  in  drawing  this  geometrical  figure  ? 
What  are  help  lines,  and  how  are  they  drawn  ? 


106  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 

When  the  pattern  is  finished,  what  lines  bound  it? 

How  many  cutting-lines  are  there  in  this  underwaist  pattern  ? 

Which  side  in  all  the  patterns  of  this  system  is  used  for  the  back  ? 

How  is  the  front  curve  of  the  neck  formed  ? 

How  is  the  back  curve  of  the  neck  formed  ? 

What  change  is  made  In  the  pattern  when  the  waist  is  larger  than  the 
bust  ? 

When  the  bust  is  larger  than  the  waist,  how  is  the  pattern  drafted  ? 

Can  this  pattern  be  cut  without  using  parts  of  inches  ? 

How  is  this  done  ? 

Will  the  pattern  fit  well  when  only  whole  inches  are  used  ? 

Take  the  measures,  and  draft  a  pattern. 

When  the  pattern  is  finished,  how  is  the  underwaist  cut  ? 

How  is  this  waist  put  together  ? 

How  is  it  finished  ? 

What  measures  are  taken  for  a  child's  underskirt  ? 

How  many  widths  are  required  for  the  underskirt  of  a  child  from  three 
to  five  years  of  age  ? 

How  many  widths  are  required  for  the  underskirt  of  a  girl  of  from  five 
to  twelve  years  of  age  ? 

How  is  an  underskirt  cut  that  has  a  band  and  shoulder  straps  ? 

W^hen  it  is  made  with  the  underwaist,  how  is  the  underskirt  finished  ? 

How  many  kinds  of  darning  are  there,  and  what  are  they  ? 

MATERIALS    AND    THEIR    MANUFACTURE 

HOSIERY, 

Any  fabric  which  is  knitted  conies  under  the  head  of  hosiery.  Un- 
til 1589  all  knitting  was  done  by  hand.  At  that  time  William  Lee,  a 
clergyman  born  at  Woodbridge,  England,  and  a  graduate  of  Cambridge 
University,  invented  a  knitting  machine. 

The  peculiarity  of  knitting  is  that  it  is  weaving  with  a  single  thread, 
and  the  machinery  necessary  to  accomplish  this  is  most  ingenious  and 
complex. 


SIXTH    GRADE   WORK.  107 

In  1758  Jedediah  Strutt  adapted  the  knitting  machine  to  ribbed 
work,  and  this  was  the  beginning  of  a  great  industry.  Until  1816  all 
machine-knit  garments  were  cut  and  made  like  others,  with  seams.  In 
thc,t  year  a  machine  was  invented  which  wove  garments  and  stockings 
without  seams. 

One  great  center  of  hosiery  manufacture  is  Nottingham,  England. 
There  are  a  large  number  of  manufactories  in  our  own  country  where 
very  beautiful  goods  are  made.  Some  idea  of  the  importance  of  hosiery 
can  be  formed  from  the  fact  that  over  5,000  different  articles  are  made 
of  knitted  fabrics. 

Cheap  hosiery  is  made  on  the  circular  stocking  frame.  The  web  is 
woven  in  the  shape  of  a  tube,  and  when  it  is  long  enough  for  a  stocking 
it  is  cut  off  to  form  a  foot  and  sewed  up  by  machinery.  A  machine  of 
this  kind  makes  1,000  stockings  a  day. 

FELT. 

Felt  is  a  kind  of  cloth  which  is  not  formed  of  woven  threads,  but  is 
beaten  and  pressed  together.  It  is  used  mostly  for  hats,  and  is  made 
of  wool  and  the  hair  of  the  rabbit,  hare,  muskrat,  and  beaver. 

Only  very  fine  hair  and  wool  are  used  for  felting,  and  they  must  be 
free  from  grease,  and  perfectly  clean.  After  the  material  to  be  used  is 
prepared,  it  is  put  into  a  blower  with  a  fan  inside  which  revolves  two 
thousand  times  a  minute.  In  this  way  the  very  fine  hair  is  separated 
from  that  which  is  coarser. 

The  fine  hair  or  wool  for  felt  hats  is  weighed,  and  then  fed  to  a  ma- 
chine which  forms  it  in  this  way :  first  two  rollers,  one  with  wire  teeth 
and  the  other  with  rows  of  bristles  which  revolve  four  thousand  times 
a  minute,  catch  it  and  send  it  flying  around.  As  it  comes  from  the 
feeder  it  drifts  to  a  copper  cone  where  it  clings  because  the  cone  is  full 
of  holes,  and  it  is  over  a  pit  where  a  fan  works  so  that  it  draws  the  air 
from  the  outside  and  the  fibers  with  it.  Not  a  single  fiber  escapes,  and 
when  they  are  all  gathered  around,  it  is  sprayed  with  boiling  water 


108  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 

which  holds  it  together,  so  that  it  can  be  felted.  The  felting  is  a 
shrinking,  pressing  process,  and  when  the  fabric  thus  formed  is  finished 
and  dried  it  is  firm  and  strong. 

When  a  stiff  felt  hat  is  to  be  made,  it  is  treated  to  a  bath  of  shellac. 
Then  it  is  softened  and  drawn  over  a  wooden  block.  It  is  then  dipped 
in  the  dyeing  material.  After  this  it  is  carefully  shaped,  and  the  band 
and  binding  are  added. 

Felt  cloth  is  manufactured  in  much  the  same  way  as  felt  for  hats, 
only  it  is  made  of  wool,  and  is  not  formed  on  a  cone,  but  is  pressed  in 

flat  lengths. 

PRINTED  FABRICS. 

It  was  in  India  that  the  printing  of  fabrics  _n  various  patterns  and 
colors  originated.  The  first  printing  of  fabrics  in  Europe  was  near 
London  in  1676. 

The  processes  of  printing  cloth  are  very  complex,  but  so  perfectly  is 
the  machinery  for  this  purpose  adjusted  that  beautiful  work  is  done  with 
great  rapidity.  At  Manchester,  England,  twenty-five  yards  of  calico  are 
printed  in  one  minute. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  fabric  printing,  —  block  printing  and  machine 
printing.  In  block  printing  the  pattern  to  be  printed  is  cut  on  a  block 
of  sycamore  wood  as  for  wood  engraving,  the  parts  to  make  the  impres- 
sion being  left  prominent,  and  the  rest  cut  away.  An  ingenious  inven- 
tion makes  it  possible  to  apply  several  colors  at  once  by  means  of  one  block. 

The  printing  which  is  now  almost  universally  used  is  by  means  of 
cylinders  covered  with  engraved  copper.  Each  cylinder  prints  a  single 
shade  or  color.  There  is  a  color  box  in  the  center  of  this  machine,  and 
by  means  of  screws  and  other  fine  mechanical  adjustments  the  pitch  of 
each  roller  is  so  arranged  that  its  particular  color  falls  on  the  proper 
place  with  the  most  minute  exactness.  Although  the  machinery  for 
doing  this  work  is  intricate  and  costly,  and  everything  connected  with 
it  must  be  very  carefully  considered,  the  process  is  not  expensive.  If 
it  were,  calico  and  other  printed  cloth  would  not  be  as  cheap  as  they  are. 


SEVENTH   GRADE   WORK.  109 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

SEVENTH    GRADE    WORK. 

ANY  kind  of  work  which  is  so  perfectly  planned  and  executed  that 
there  is  nothing  left  to  be  suggested  or  desired  has  reached  the  dignity 
of  an  art,  and  is  a  source  of  much  pleasure  to  the  worker.  Even  the 
setting  of  a  patch,  when  properly  done,  is  a  pleasant  task,  and  when 
completed  is  far  from  unsightly. 

Let  the  teacher  in  doing  the  first  work  of  this  grade,  which  is  the 
gingham  patch,  call  the  •  attention  of  the  pupils  to  the  ease  with  which 
the  nicest  work  is  done  when  it  is  properly  planned  and  each  step  is 
carefully  executed. 

THE   GINGHAM  PATCH. 

The  material  for  this  model  is  a  piece  of  domestic  gingham  six  and 
one-fourth  inches  wide  and  thirteen  and  one-fourth  inches  long,  figured 
in  quarter-inch  checks.  From  the  upper  left-hand  corner  of  this  ging- 
ham model,  cut  out  a  piece  two  and  one-half  inches  long  and  one  and 
one-half  inches  wide.  Turn  in  the  edges  of  this  opening  one-fourth  of 
an  inch,  taking  care  to  follow  a  single  thread  of  the  fabric.  This  makes 
an  opening  two  and  three-quarter  inches  in  length  and  one  and  three- 
quarter  inches  in  width. 

Cut  a  gingham  patch  three  and  one-fourth  inches  in  length  and  two 
and  one-fourth  inches  in  width.  Crease  down  one  side  and  one  end  of 
this  patch  one-half  inch,  and  place  it  under  the  corner  which  has  been 
cut  out  of  the  ginghan  model,  in  such  a  way  that  the  edges,  when 
turned  in,  face  each  other,  and  the  little  squares  match  to  the  nicety 
of  a  thread.  When  this  has  been  done,  turn  back  the  patch  and  over- 


110 


SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


hand  it  to  the  model,  holding  it  so  that  the  squares  of  the  model  are 
carried  out  to  a  thread  in  the  squares  of  the  patch.  Cut  the  corners  of 
that  part  of  the  model  which  is  turned  in  obliquely,  trim  the  seam,  and 
fell  the  edge  of  the  patch  down  onto  the  model  with  the  linen  hem. 

On  the  opposite  end  of  the  model,  measure  two  inches  from  each 
edge,  and  cut  out  a  piece  one  and  one-half  inches  wide  and  two  and  one- 
quarter  inches  long.  See  that  the  patch  just  finished  is  in  the  right- 
hand  upper  corner,  that  it  may  be  right  side  out,  and  turn  in  the  three 
edges  as  for  the  first  patch.  Cut  a  patch  three  and  three-quarter 
inches  long  and  two  and  one-quarter  inches  wide,  and  turn  in  one-half 


6x4 

6x6 

1x8 

6*6 

6*4 

\ 

The  Gingham  Patches. 

inch  on  three  sides.  Place  so  that  the  edges  of  the  model  and  of  the 
patch,  which  have  been  turned  in,  shall  face,  and  the  checks  exactly 
match.  Turn  back  the  patch,  overhand  the  four  sides ;  cut  the  corners 
of  the  model,  where  it  is  turned  in,  obliquely,  and  fell  the  patch  onto 
the  model  with  the  linen  hem. 

For  the  next  patch,  cut  out  a  piece  from  the  model  two  and  one- 
half  inches  from  the  end  and  two  inches  from  the  side,  two  and  three- 
eighth  inches  long  and  two  inches  wide.  After  turning  in  the  four 
sides  of  this  opening,  cut  a  patch  one-half  an  inch  larger  on  each  side 
than  the  opening,  place  the  patch,  after  turning  in  the  edges,  so  that 
they  face  and  the  squares  match  to  a  thread,  and  proceed  as  in  other 
patches. 


SEVENTH   GRADE  WORK. 


Ill 


When  this  patch  is  finished,  cut  another  opening  of  the  same  size 
and  form  in  the  opposite  end  of  the  model,  letting  the  pupil  measure 
the  patch  and  the  work  without  assistance.  Nothing  imperfect  should 
be  permitted  to  pass.  Work  that  is  not  correctly  done  should  be  at 
once  ripped  and  rectified. 

For  the  next  patch,  an  opening  is  cut  in  the  center  of  the  model 
two  and  three-eighth  inches  long  and  three  and  one-fourth  inches  wide. 
The  patch  for  this  is  cut  one-half  an  inch  larger  on  each  side  than 
the  opening,  after  it  has  been  turned  in  one-fourth  of  an  inch  on  each 


Scheme  of  Gingham  Patches. 


of  the  four  sidss.  The  patch  is  turned  in  one-half  inch  on  each  side, 
care  being  taken  to  turn  this  as  well  as  all  edges,  by  a  thread.  Where 
the  edges  of  the  patch  and  of  the  opening  have  been  turned  in  and 
the  patch  placed,  it  is  overhanded  in  on  the  right  side,  while  on  the 
underside  it  is  simply  overcast,  as  it  represents  a  patch  where  there  is  a 
lining. 

The  last  patch  of  this  model  is  one  that  is  placed  diagonally  on  the 
corner.  First  measure  an  inch  and  a  half  each  way  from  the  corner  op- 
posite the  first  patch,  and  cut  diagonally.  Cut  a  patch  like  this  corner 
with  a  half-inch  added  along  the  diagonal  side.  Turn  in  the  diagonal 


112  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


edges  of  the  model  and  the  patch,  and  overhand  together;  trim  the 
edge  of  the  model  that  is  turned  in,  and  fell  the  patch  with  the  linen 
hem.  First  hem  the  long  sides  with  an  eighth-inch  hem,  then  turn  the 
ends  and  hem  in  the  same  way.  The  reason  for  hemming  first  the 
sides  and  then  the  ends  is  that  the  corners  may  be  even  and  square. 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  first  model  of  the  seventh  grade  ?  Ans.  A  piece  of  domes- 
tic gingham  figured  in  quarter-inch  checks,  six  and  one-fourth  inches  wide, 
and  thirteen  and  one-quarter  inches  long. 

How  many  patches  are  there  in  this  model  ?     Ans.    Six  patches. 

What  is  the  first  thing  to  be  done  ?  Ans.  From  the  upper  left-hand 
corner  of  the  model,  a  piece  is  cut  two  and  one-half  inches  long  and  one  and 
one-half  inches  wide,  and  the  three  edges  of  this  opening  are  turned  in  one- 
fourth  of  an  inch. 

How  large  is  the  patch  for  this  opening?  Ans.  It  is  three  and  one- 
quarter  inches  in  length  and  two  and  one-fourth  inches  in  width,  and  is 
creased  down  on  two  sides  so  that  it  fits  the  opening  in  the  model. 

How  is  this  patch  placed  ?  Ans.  It  is  so  placed  that  the  squares  of  the 
gingham  match  to  a  thread. 

How  should  the  edges  of  both  patch  and  model  be  turned  ?  Ans.  Along 
the  line  of  a  thread. 

When  the  patch  has  been  placed,  how  should  it  be  sewed  ?  Ans.  It 
should  first  be  overhanded,  then  the  corners  of  that  part  of  the  model  which 
is  turned  in  are  cut  obliquely,  the  edge  trimmed,  and  the  patch  felled  down 
with  the  linen  hem. 

Where  is  the  next  patch  placed  ?    Ans.    In  the  opposite  end  of  the  mode, 
measure  two  inches  from  each  edge,  and  cut  out  a  piece  one  and  one-half 
inches  wide  and  two  and  one-quarter  inches  long. 

How  should  the  edge  of  this  opening  be  turned  ?  Ans.  First  see  that 
the  patch  already  placed  is  in  the  right-hand  upper  corner,  that  it  may  be 
right  side  out,  and  turn  in  the  edge  one-fourth  of  an  inch  along  the  line  of 
a  thread. 

What  size  is  the  patch  for  this  opening  ?     Ans.    It  is  three  and  three- 


SEVENTH   GRADE   -WORK.  •    113 

quarter  inches  long  and  two  and  one-quarter  inches  wide,  and  is  turned  in  a 
half  inch  on  three  sides. 

How  is  this  patch  placed  ?  Ans.  It  is  so  placed  that  the  squares  exactly 
match,  and  the  edges  of  the  patch  and  the  model  are  then  overhanded 
together. 

How  is  this  patch  finished  ?  Ans.  The  corners  of  that  part  of  the  model 
which  is  turned  in  are  cut  obliquely,  the  edge  is  trimmed,  and  the  part  of 
the  patch  which  was  creased  is  felled  down  over  the  model  with  the  linen  hem. 

What  is  the  third  patch  in  this  model  ?     Ans.    The  four-sided  patch. 

Where  is  the  four-sided  patch  placed  ?  Ans.  Two  and  one-half  inches 
from  the  lower  edge  of  the  model,  and  two  inches  from  the  side  edge. 

How  large  a  space  is  cut  ?  Ans.  A  piece  two  and  three-eighth  inches 
long  and  two  inches  wide. 

How  large  is  the  patch  ?  Ans.  After  the  edges  of  the  opening  have 
been  turned  in,  the  patch  should  be  one-half  inch  larger  on  each  side  than 
the  opening. 

How  is  this  patch  placed  ?  Ans.  So  that  the  squares  match  to  a  thread, 
and  it  is  then  overhanded  and  felled  like  the  other  patches. 

What  is  the  next  patch  ?  Ans.  Another  like  this  in  the  other  end  of  the 
model. 

What  is  the  next  work  of  this  model  ?  Ans.  Cut  an  opening  in  the 
center  of  the  model  two  and  three-eighth  inches  long  and  three  and  one- 
fourth  inches  wide,  and  crease  down  one-fourth  inch  on  the  edges. 

How  long  is  the  patch  for  this  ?  Ans.  One-half  inch  larger  than  the 
opening  after  the  edges  are  turned. 

How  is  this  patch  placed?  Ans.  After  creasing  the  edge  of  the  patch 
along  a  thread,  overhand  it  onto  the  model  as  before.  Overcast  the  under 
edge  instead  of  felling  it,  as  this  represents  a  patch  where  there  is  a  lining. 

What  is  the  last  patch  of  this  model  ?  Ans.  A  diagonal  patch  on  the 
corner. 

How  is  this  patch  placed  ?  Ans.  Measure  an  inch  and  a  half  each  way 
from  the  corner  opposite  the  first  patch,  and  cut  off  diagonally.  Cut  a  patch 
like  this  corner  with  half  an  inch  added  along  the  diagonal  side  ;  match  the 
squares  perfectly;  overhand  and  fell  as  in  the  other  patches. 


114  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT  CUTTING. 


Child's  Dress. 


SEVENTH   GRADE   WORK. 


115 


B; _^1..._^ 


psi 


CHILD'S  DRESS. 

The  next  work  of  this  grade  is  the  making  of  a  dress  for  a  child 
from  three  to  five  years  of  age,  or  for  the  big  doll,  if  there  is  one  be- 
longing to  the  department.  The  measures  for  the  waist  of  this  little 
gown  are  taken  as  for  the  underwaist,  and  the  pattern  is  drafted  and 
cut  in  the  same  way. 

For  the  sleeve,  the  following  measures  are  taken :  The  length  of  the 
arm  over  the  elbow  from  the  shoulder  to  the  wrist ;  the  length  from  the 
elbow  to  the  wrist;  the  length  of  the  inside 
arm ;  the  length  of  the  inside  forearm  from  the 
elbow  to  the  wrist ;  for  the  width  take  the  size 
of  the  arm  above  the  elbow,  and  add  four  inches. 
When  these  measures  have  been  taken  and  tab- 
ulated, draw  a  dotted  help  line  parallelogram, 
using  the  outside  arm  length  and  half  the  width 
for  the  two  sides.  Measure  the  length  from  the 
wrist  to  the  elbow  on  line  D,  and  put  a  point  1 . 
Measure  three  inches  on  line  A  to  the  left  from 
line  D.  Draw  a  curved  line  from  this  point  2 
to  the  angle  of  lines  C  and  D,  which  gives  the 
outside  curve  of  the  sleeve. 

For  the  wrist  slant,  measure  one  inch  up  on 
line  B  from  the  angle  of  lines  B  and  A,  and 
one  inch  to  the  left,  point  3,  and  draw  an  ob- 
lique cutting  line  from  point  2.  From  point 
3,  measure  the  length  of  the  inner  arm  along 
line  B,  point  5.  Measure  from  point  3  along 
line  B  the  length  of  the  inside  forearm,  and 

one  inch  to  the  right,  point   4.      Connect  points  3,  4,  and  5  with  a 
curved  cutting  line. 

From  the  angle  of  lines  C  and  D,  measure  two  inches  on  line  C, 


116  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


point  6,  and  one  inch  from  this,  point  7.  Draw  a  curving  line  from  the 
angle  of  lines  C  and  D  to  point  5  including  point  7. 

From  point  1  on  line  D  measure  two  inches  to  the  left,  and  from 
point  2  at  the  wrist  one  inch  to  the  left ;  connect  the  two  by  a  curving 
line  with  point  6.  From  point  6  to  point  5  draw  a  concave  line,  and 
the  draft  of  the  sleeve  is  complete.  The  under  part  which  is  drafted 
within  the  upper  part  can  be  outlined  with  a  tracer  and  then  cut.  This 
is,  of  course,  only  a  plain  sleeve  lining,  but  with  this  as  a  basis  any  sort 
of  sleeve  desired  may  be  cut. 

The  skirt  of  this  small  frock  may  be  made  any  length  desired,  allow- 
ing sufficient  extra  length  for  a  five-inch  hem.  Three  widths  of  goods 
twenty-seven  inches  wide  are  required  for  the  little  skirt.  This  skirt  is 
made  with  a  five-inch  placket  like  the  underskirt,  but  is  unlike  it  in 
that  it  is  seamed  up  without  being  turned  to  make  a  French  fell. 

The  waist  is  made  like  the  underwaist,  but  the  seams  are  overcast 
instead  of  felled.  The  sleeve  is  basted  in  so  that  the  under-arm  seam 
is  an  inch  and  one-half  to  the  front  of  the  side  seam  of  the  waist,  and  it 
is  then  .sewed  in  with  a  backstitch.  The  skirt  should  be  divided  into 
four  parts,  putting  two  inches  more  into  each  of  the  two  back  divisions 
than  into  the  front,  and  when  it  is  gathered,  and  the  gathers  stroked, 
join  it  to  the  waist  in  the  same  way  as  the  underskirt,  finishing  the  seam 
with  a  narrow  instead  of  a  wide  facing.  A  little  ruffle  of  the  material, 
or  of  embroidery,  or  lace,  makes  a  suitable  finish  for  the  neck  and 
sleeves. 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

What  is  the  first  thing  to  be  done  in  making  a  child's  dress  ?  Ans.  To 
take  the  measures  and  draft  the  waist. 

How  is  this  done  ?     Ans.    The  same  as  with  the  underwaist. 

How  many  measures  are  taken  for  the  sleeve  ?     Ans.    Five. 

What  are  they  ?  Ans.  The  length  from  the  shoulder  to  the  wrist  over 
the  elbow ;  the  length  from  the  shoulder  to  the  elbow ;  the  inside  length  of 
the  arm  ;  the  inside  forearm  ;  and  the  width. 


SEVENTH   GRADE   WORK.  117 

What  is  the  first  thing  to  be  done  in  drafting  a  sleeve  ?  Ans.  Draw  a 
dotted  help  line  parallelogram  with  half  the  width  for  the  short  base  line 
A,  and  the  outside  arm  length  for  the  long  perpendicular  lines  B  and  D. 

How  is  the  outside  cutting  line  of  the  sleeve  found  ?  Ans.  Measure 
the  length  from  the  wrist  to  the  elbow  on  line  D,  and  put  point  1  an  inch  to 
the  left ;  measure  four  inches  on  line  A  to  the  left  from  line  D,  point  2,  arid 
draw  a  curved  cutting  line  connecting  it  with  point  1  and  the  angle  of  lines 
C  and  D. 

How  is  the  wrist  slant  obtained  ?  Ans.  One  inch  on  line  B  from  the 
angle  of  A  and  B  and  one  inch  to  the  left,  fix  point  3,  and  from  it  draw  an 
oblique  cutting  line  to  point  2. 

How  is  the  under-arm  seam  found  ?  Ans.  From  point  3  measure  the 
length  of  the  inner  arm,  point  5,  and  from  point  3  the  length  of  the  forearm 
on  line  B  and  one  inch  to  the  right,  point  4,  and  connect  points  3,  4,  and  5 
with  an  incurving  cutting  line. 

How  is  the  curved  upper  part  of  the  sleeve  drafted  ?  Ans.  From  the 
angles  of  lines  C  and  D,  measure  two  inches  on  line  C.  point  6,  and  one  inch 
up  from  this,  point  7,  and  connect  the  angle  of  lines  C  and  D  with  points  7 
and  5  by  a  curving  line. 

How  is  the  under  part  of  the  sleeve  drafted  ?  Ans.  From  point  1  on 
line  D  measure  two  inches  to  the  left,  and  from  point  2  at  the  wrist  one  inch 
to  the  left,  and  connect  with  point  6  by  a  curved  cutting  line. 

How  is  the  under  part  of  the  sleeve  cut  ?  Ans.  It  is  traced  with  a 
tracer,  and  then  drawn  and  cut. 

How  is  the  waist  put  together  ?  Ans.  Like  the  underwaist  except  that 
the  seams  are  not  felled. 

How  is  the  skirt  cut  ?  Ans.  Three  lengths  of  ordinary  width  goods  as 
long  as  is  required,  with  five  inches  added  for  a  hem. 

How  is  the  skirt  divided  ?  Ans.  Into  four  parts,  with  two  inches  more 
in  each  of  the  two  back  divisions  than  in  front. 

How  is  it  finished  ?  Ans.  It  is  gathered,  and  sewed  to  the  waist  like  the 
underskirt,  but  it  is  finished  on  the  wrong  side  with  a  narrow  facing. 

How  is  the  sleeve  put  in  ?  Ans.  The  under-arm  seam  of  the  sleeve  is 
put  an  inch  and  a  half  toward  the  front  from  the  side  seam  of  the  waist. 


118  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


BOY'S  BLOUSE    WAIST  AN1>  KILT  SKIltT. 

For  a  boy's  blouse  waist,  take  measures  and  draft  as  for  a  child's 
waist,  adding  four  inches  to  the  length,  and  an  inch  to  half  the  front,  and 
the  same  to  half  the  back,  at  the  bottom  of  the  waist,  making  two  inches 
added  to  the  front  for  fullness.  The  additions  to  the  waist  for  the  full- 
ness can  be  made  in  cutting  by  laying  the  pattern  on  the  doubled  goods 
in  such  a  way  as  to  have  a  margin  of  an  inch  at  the  bottom  beyond  the 
pattern  in  the  front  and  back.  As  the  blouse  is  not  opened  in  the  back, 
but  the  front,  the  back  should  be  cut  on  a  doubled  width  of  goods,  and 
the  inch  and  three-fourths  allowed  for  the  lap  should  be  cut  on  each 
side  of  the  front. 

This  blouse  is  made  like  the  child's  dress  waist,  with  the  exception 
that  the  bottom  is  hemmed  in  a  half-inch  hem  through  which  an  elastic, 
one  inch  longer  than  the  waist  measure,  is  run.  The  added  inch  on  the 
length  of  the  elastic  is  for  the  fastening  on  either  side  at  the  ends. 

The  underwaist  for  boys,  on  which  the  kilt  skirt  or  trousers  are 
buttoned,  is  the  same  as  the  child's  underwaist. 

The  sleeve  of  the  blouse  is  cut  like  the  sleeve  of  the  child's  dress, 
with  the  exception  that  there  is  no  wrist  slant,  and  the  fullness  is  gath- 
ered into  a  cuff  or  band. 

The  kilted  skirt  is  made  of  straight  widths  of  cloth  cut  long  enough 
to  reach  just  below  the  knees,  with  four  inches  allowed  for  a  hem.  The 
width  is  four  times  the  waist  measure.  The  placket  is  cut  and  hemmed 
as  in  the  underskirt.  When  the  skirt  has  been  hemmed,  and  laid  in  two- 
inch  plaits,  it  is  felled  to  a  band  three  inches  wide  and  one  inch  longer 
than  the  waist  measure.  There  are  seven  buttonholes  in  the  band,  - 
one  in  each  end,  two  at  each  side,  and  one  in  front. 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

How  is  a  blouse  waist  drafted  ?  Ans.  The  same  as  a  child's  waist,  with 
four  inches  added  to  the  length,  and  two  inches  to  the  back,  and  the  same 
to  the  front  for  fullness. 


SEVENTH    GRADE   WORK.  119 

Is  the  blouse  waist  closed  in  the  back  or  the  front  ?    Ana.    In  the  front. 

How  is  the  lap  provided  for  ?  Ans.  The  provision  for  the  front  lap  is 
the  same  as  for  the  back. 

How  is  this  done  ?  Ans.  By  adding  an  inch  and  three-quarters  on 
each  side. 

How  is  the  waist  finished  at  the  bottom  ?  Ans.  A  half-inch  hem  is 
turned,  and  when  it  is  hemmed,  an  elastic,  one  inch  longer  than  the  waist 
measure,  is  run  in,  drawn  up,  and  fastened  on  each  side. 

How  full  is  a  kilt  skirt  cut  ?     Ans.    Four  times  the  waist  measure. 

How  long  should  it  be  ?  Ans.  A  little  below  the  knees,  with  four  inches 
added  for  a  hem. 

How  is  the  placket  cut  ?     Ans.    Like  the  one  in  the  underskirt. 

How  wide  should  the  kilts  be  ?     Ans.    Usually  two  inches  in  width. 

How  should  the  band  be  cut  ?  Ans.  One  inch  longer  than  a  loose  waist 
measure,  and  three  inches  wide. 

Where  should  the  buttonholes  be  cut  ?  Ans.  One  in  the  front,  and  two 
on  each  side,  with  one  in  each  end  of  the  band. 

KNEE   TROUSERS. 

The  little  trousers  which  finish  the  work  of  this  grade  are  intended 
to  be  buttoned  onto  an  underwaist.  The  measures  required  are  a 
waist  measure,  the  length  of  the  leg  from  the  waist  to  the  knee,  and 
the  inside  of  the  leg  to  the  knee. 

A  parallelogram  with  the  outside  leg  measure  for  two  sides,  and  half 
the  waist  measure  for  the  other  two,  is  drawn  in  dotted  help  lines.  On 
lines  B  and  D,  measure  the  inside  leg  measure,  and  draw  a  help  line  E 
an  inch  and  a  half  beyond  these  two  lines. 

On  lines  A  and  C  to  the  left  from  line  D,  measure  one  inch  more 
than  half  the  length  of  these  lines,  and  between  these  points  draw  a 
cutting  line,  F.  Connect  A  and  E  on  both  sides  by  an  oblique  line. 
Measure  an  inch  and  a  half  down  from  line  A  on  both  sides,  and  draw 
a  line  with  half  an  inch  slant  for  a  hem. 

Measure  up  from  the  angle  of  lines  I)  and  C  two  and  one-half  inches, 


120  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING   AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


Boy's   Suit. 


SEVENTH   GRADE   WORK. 


121 


and  connect  line  E  with  this  point  by  an  oblique  line.  From  the  angle 
of  B  and  C,  draw  to  E  a  line  curved  in  slightly.  One  inch  and  a  half 
from  line  E  on  the  left  side  place  point  1.  Measure  up  the  curved  line 


Knee  Trousers. 


of  the  front  two  and  one-half  inches,  and  place  point  2.  Cut  a  fly 
three  inches  long,  curved  on  one  side  to  fit  the  front  seam  between 
points  1  and  2,  an  inch  and  one-half  wide  in  the  center,  and  nar- 
rowed to  a  point  on  either  side.  Face  the  left  front  between  points  1 


122  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 

and  2,  and  the  seam  on  the  right  side  of  the  fly  between  the  same 
points,  pressing  the  seam  open,  and  stitching  it  down  on  either  side. 

Use  two  pieces  of  strong  cloth  for  pockets,  ten  inches  wide  and 
seven  inches  long.  Face  these  pieces  with  goods  like  the  trousers  on 
one  of  the  seven-inch  sides,  so  that  they  face  each  other.  Measure  down 
at  the  side  five  and  a  half  inches  from  the  top  of  each  front,  notch  each 
side,  and  turn  back  and  face.  Fell  on  this  side  of  the  pocket,  meas- 
uring seven  inches  which  is  not  faced,  bringing  the  top  of  the  pocket  to 
the  top  of  the  trousers.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the  pocket  be  so 
basted  that  the  faced  part  shall  be  on  the  inside.  When  the  upper  part 
of  the  pocket  has  been  felled  to  the  front  of  the  trousers,  baste  so  that 
the  faced  part  is  a  little  back  from  the  edge,  and  sew  with  a  backstitch. 

Put  a  fly  of  material  like  the  trousers,  one  and  one-half  inches  wide, 
down  five  and  one-half  inches  from  the  top  on  the  sides  of  the  backs. 
Sew  the  two  fronts  together  and  the  two  backs.  Wet  these  seams  with 
a  sponge,  and  press  until  they  are  flat  and  perfectly  dry.  Work  a  stay 
at  each  edge  of  the  front  fly.  Sew  up  the  side  seams  as  far  as  the 
pockets,  and  press  in  the  same  way.  Baste  so  that  the  back  and  front 
seams  come  together,  seam  up,  stitch,  and  press.  Take  a  bias  piece  of 
black  silesia  three-quarters  of  an  inch  wide ;  stitch  this  onto  the  bottom 
of  the  legs,  and  when  the  hem  has  been  turned,  hem  the  silesia  so  that  the 
stitches  cannot  be  seen  on  the  right  side.  Moisten  and  press  these  hems. 

Turn  in  the  top  of  the  backs  and  the  fronts,  and  fell  on  an  inch  and 
a  half  bias  facing.  Cut  a  double  band  an  inch  and  a  half  wide.  Put  a 
buttonhole  in  the  center  of  this  band,  and  another  half-way  between 
the  center  and  the  sides  of  the  trousers.  Double  in  these  bands,  and 
stitch  them  onto  the  trousers  at  the  top,  with  the  edge  of  the  band  a  lit- 
tle below  the  edge  of  the  trousers.  Fasten  at  the  ends  and  between 
each  buttonhole.  Fasten  the  fly  on  the  back  of  the  trousers  to  the 
front,  and  work  a  stay  where  the  two  edges  come  together.  Put  a  but- 
tonhole on  each  side  of  the  front  of  the  trousers,  and  a  button  on  the 
back  so  that  the  two  edges  come  together. 


SEVENTH    GRADE   WORK.  123 

To  remove  the  shiny  look  caused  by  pressing,  wet  a  cotton  cloth,  and, 
after  wringing  it  quite  dry,  lay  it  over  the  shiny  part,  and  go  over  it 
with  a  hot  flatiron  very  lightly.  Remove  the  cloth  quickly,  and  brush. 
In  doing  this  the  iron  should  be  kept  in  the  hand,  and  not  set  down  on 
the  cloth. 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

What  are  the  measures  taken  for  boys'  knee  trousers  ?  Ans.  A  waist 
measure,  the  length  of  the  leg  from  the  waist  to  the  knee,  and  the  inside  of 
the  leg  to  the  knee. 

What  is  the  first  thing  to  be  done  in  drafting  boys'  trousers  ?  Ans, 
Draw  a  dotted  help  line  parallelogram  with  the  outside  leg  measure  for  two 
sides,  and  half  the  waist  measure  for  the  other  two. 

WThat  is  the  next  step  ?  Ans.  On  lines  B  and  D  mark  off  the  inside  leg 
measure,  and  draw  a  help  line  E  an  inch  and  a  half  beyond  these  two  lines. 

How  is  the  line  that  divides  the  back  from  the  front  found  ?  Ans.  On 
lines  A  and  G  to  the  left  from  line  D,  measure  one  inch  more  than  half  the 
length  of  these  lines,  and  connect  by  the  cutting  line  F. 

How  is  the  lower  part  of  the  trousers  leg  formed  ?  Ans.  On  both  sides 
connect  A  and  E  by  an  oblique  cutting  line. 

How  is  the  hem  provided  for  ?  Ans.  Measure  an  inch  and  a  half  down 
from  line  A  on  both  sides,  and  draw  a  line  with  half  an  inch  slant  for  a  hem. 

How  is  the  extra  length  in  the  back  obtained  ?  Ans.  From  the  angle 
of  lines  D  and  C  measure  up  two  and  one-half  inches,  and  connect  this 
point  with  line  E  by  an  oblique  cutting  line. 

What  is  the  next  thing  to  be  done  ?  Ans.  From  the  angle  of  B  and  C, 
draw  a  line  to  E  curving  in  slightly. 

Where  is  the  opening  for  the  front  fly  ?  Ans.  One  and  one-half  inches 
from  line  E  is  point  1,  measure  up  the  curved  line  two  and  one-half  inches, 
point  2,  —  between  these  points  is  the  space  for  the  fly. 

How  is  the  fly  cut  and  placed  ?  Ans.  It  is  three  inches  long,  and 
curved  to  fit  the  front  seam  on  one  side,  and  is  circular  on  the  other. 

Where  is  this  placed  ?  Ans.  It  is  seamed  on  the  right  side,  pressed 
and  stitched,  and  the  left  side  is  faced  between  points  1  and  2, 


124  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 

How  are  the  pockets  cut  ?  Am.  Ten  inches  wide  and  seven  inches 
long. 

How  are  the  pockets  prepared  ?  Ans.  They  are  faced  on  two  sides  with 
material  like  the  trousers. 

How  are  they  put  in  ?  Ans.  The  sides  which  are  not  faced  are  felled 
to  the  fronts;  they  are  then  brought  together  and  sewed,  the  tops  being 
basted  to  the  top  of  the  trousers,  and  afterwards  sewed  on  with  a  band. 

How  is  the  back  part  of  the  trousers  opposite  the  pockets  finished?. 
Ans.  With  a  fly  five  and  one-half  inches  long,  and  one  and  one-half  inches 
wide. 

What  is  the  next  thing  to  be  done  ?  Ans.  Sew  the  two  fronts  together 
on  either  side  of  the  fly,  and  after  sewing  the  backs  together  and  thoroughly 
pressing  the  seams,  sew  and  press  the  side  seams. 

What  is  the  last  seam  sewed  ?  Ans.  The  inner  leg  seam,  which  should 
be  sewed  from  the  center  with  the  two  seams  evenly  opposite  each  other. 

How  should  the  seams  be  pressed  ?  Ans.  They  should  be  wet  with  a 
sponge,  and  pressed  until  perfectly  dry. 

How  is  the  front  fly  finished  ?     Ans.    A  stay  is  worked  at  each  side. 

How  are  the  sides  finished  ?  Ans.  With  a  stay  like  the  front  fly  where 
the  seams  begin. 

How  is  the  bottom  of  each  leg  finished  ?  Ans.  A  bias  strip  of  silesia 
three-fourths  of  an  inch  wide  is  stitched  to  the  bottom,  the  hem  is  then 
turned,  and  the  edge  of  the  silesia  turned  and  hemmed. 

How  is  the  top  finished  ?  Ans.  Turn  in  the  top  of  the  back  and  front, 
and  fell  on  a  bias  facing  an  inch  and  a  half  wide.  Put  a  buttonhole  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  from  the  edge,  and  a  half-inch  from  the  top  in  the  front, 
and  set  buttons  in  the  back  so  that  the  two  edges  come  together. 

How  are  the  trousers  buttoned  onto  the  underwaist  ?  Ans.  Cut  a  band 
one  inch  shorter  than  the  width  of  the  fronts,  and  three  inches  wide,  and  an- 
other the  same  width  one  inch  shorter  than  the  width  of  the  back.  Double 
in  the  edges,  and  make  one  buttonhole  in  the  center  of  each,  and  another  in 
each  side  half-way  between  it  and  the  edge  of  the  trousers.  Stitch  this  band 
on  so  that  it  does  not  show  above  the  tops  of  the  trousers,  and  fasten  between 
each  buttonhole. 


SEVENTH   GRADE  WORK.  125 

How  are  the  trousers  finished  ?  Ans.  After  the  hems  and  the  top  have 
been  thoroughly  pressed,  sponge  by  wetting  a  cloth,  and,  after  wringing  it 
quite  dry,  lay  it  on  the  seams  on  the  right  side,  touch  lightly  with  a  heated 
flatiron,  and  brush  quickly ;  in  this  way  the  shine  caused  by  the  pressing  is 
removed. 

QUESTIONS   FOB,   REVIEW. 

What  is  the  first  model  of  the  seventh  grade  ? 
How  many  patches  are  there  in  this  model  ? 

As  a  rule,  how  much  larger  is  a  patch  than  the  opening  to  be  mended  ? 
Is  it  necessary  that  the  figure  of  the  goods  be  matched  ? 
When  the  edges  have  been  turned,  how  is  the  patch  sewed  into  the 
opening  ? 

What  is  the  second  work  undertaken  in  this  grade  ? 

How  many  measures  are  taken  for  the  sleeve  ? 

When  the  measures  have  been  taken,  how  is  the  sleeve  pattern  drafted  ? 

How  is  the  under  part  of  the  sleeve  cut  ? 

How  is  the  skirt  to  the  child's  dress  cut  ? 

How  is  the  sleeve  basted  into  the  waist  ? 

How  is  the  skirt  divided  before  it  is  gathered  ? 

How  is  the  boy's  blouse  waist  cut  ? 

Is  the  boy's  blouse  closed  in  the  front  or  back  ? 

How  full  and  how  long  is  a  boy's  kilt  skirt  ? 

What  are  the  measures  taken  for  boys'  trousers  ? 

How  is  the  pattern  for  boys'  trousers  drafted  ? 

How  is  the  fly  for  the  front  cut  and  placed  ? 

How  are  the  pockets  cut  ? 

How  are  the  pockets  put  in  ? 

How  is  the  back  part  of  the  trousers  opposite  the  pockets  finished  ? 

In  what  order  are  the  seams  of  the  trousers  sewed  ? 

How  is  the  top  of  the  trousers  finished  ? 

How  are  the  bottoms  finished  ? 

How  is  pressing  done  ? 

After  the  trousers  have  been  thoroughly  pressed,  how  are  they  finished  ? 

How  is  sponging  done  ? 


126  SCIENTIFIC   SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 

MATERIALS   AND   THEIR   MANUFACTURE. 

NEEDLES. 

DID  you  ever  consider  how  much  work  it  must  be  to  make  a  needle  ? 
Each  one  must  be  absolutely  perfect  or  it  would  be  utterly  useless. 
And  what  a  fine,  delicate  little  instrument  it  is ;  very  different  indeed 
from  the  first  needles  used  by  mankind,  which  were  made  of  fish  bones. 

In  the  first  place,  only  the  best  steel  wire  can  be  used  for  needles ; 
and  this  wire  comes  to  the  needle  factory  in  great  coils,  and  is  cut  with 
big  shears  into  lengths  sufficient  for  two  needles.  -When  these  have 
been  straightened,  several  thousands  of  them  are  packed  into  strong 
iron  rings.  These  are  heated  red-hot,  and  then  pressed  onto  an  iron 
plate  having  two  grooves  in  which  the  rings  run.  Constantly  pressed 
by  a  slightly  curved  tool,  back  and  forth  they  go  until  all  the  wires 
become  perfectly  even  and  straight. 

The  next  thing  to  be  done  is  to  point  both  ends  of  these  wires  on  a 
dry  grindstone  that  revolves  very  fast  indeed.  There  is  a  sort  of  hood 
over  this  flying  stone  to  keep  the  steel  dust  away  from  the  person  who 
does  this  work,  and  a  strong  current  of  air  helps  to  draw  it  away.  Still 
there  is  so  much  of  the  fine  steel  dust  all  about,  that  some  of  it  is 
breathed  into  the  lungs,  and  the  result  is  that  the  workers  soon  become 
ill,  and  it  is  necessary  to  secure  others  to  take  their  places,  so  that  the 
making  of  needles  costs  many  lives  each  year.  There  has  been  a 
machine  invented  to  do  this  work  which  does  the  grinding  very  rapidly, 
but  not  quite  as  well  as  it  is  done  by  hand. 

When  the  needles  have  been  ground,  a  groove  is  stamped  in  the 
center  for  the  two  eyes,  for  it  must  be  remembered  that  each  wire  rep- 
resents two  needles.  Through  these  stamped  heads,  the  eye  for  each 
needle  is  punctured.  Now  the  wire  has  become  two  needles,  held  to- 
gether by  a  thin  bit  of  steel.  One  hundred  of  these  double  needles  are 


SEVENTH    GRADE   WORK.  127 

threaded  onto  two  fine  wires  and  clamped  tightly  together ;  the  needles 
are  then  broken  apart  so  that  the  head  of  each  one  can  be  rounded  off 
with  a  file. 

After  the  heads  of  the  needles  are  rounded  off,  they  are  heated  red- 
hot  and  plunged  into  an  oil  bath,  and  then  once  more  heated.  When 
they  have  cooled,  they  are  put  into  bundles  of  several  thousands  each, 
are  mixed  with  soft  soap,  oil,  and  emery  powder,  and  tied  up  in  can- 
vas covers.  They  are  then  put  into  a  machine  that  rolls  them  backward 
and  forward  until  they  are  well  scoured.  When  they  have  been  taken 
out  of  the  covers  and  washed,  they  are  put  into  others  containing  putty- 
powder  instead  of  emery.  After  this  polishing  process,  the  needles  are 
unpacked,  washed  in  an  alkaline  solution,  and  dried  in  sawdust.  They 
are  then  put  into  trays,  and  are  made  parallel  by  a  jerking  motion.  After 
this  they  are  brought  into  one  direction  by  a  "  header,"  who  has  a  thick 
cushion  on  his  finger  into  which  he  presses  a  large  number  of  needles. 
'  After  the  imperfect  needles  have  been  thrown  out,  the  heads  are 
blued  by  heating  in  a  flame  of  gas.  When  this  has  been  done,  the 
needles  are  strung  on  a  rough  steel  wire,  over  which  is  spread  a  fine 
paste  of  oil  and  emery,  and  are  moved  backward  and  forward  until  the 
eyes  are  perfectly  smooth.  After  a  final  polishing  on  a  rapidly  revolv- 
ing buff-wheel,  the  needles  are  assorted,  put  into  papers,  and  are  then 
ready  for  use. 

EMERY. 

It  would  not  be  easy  to  tell  from  what  part  of  the  world  come  the 
fine,  irregular,  sharp  crystals  that  make  your  needle  so  smooth  when  you 
run  it  through  your  emery  bag. 

Perhaps  this  emery  has  been  a  great  traveler,  and  come  all  the  way 
from  Cape  Emerie,  on  the  island  of  Naxos,  in  the  ^Egean  Sea,  where 
the  best  emery  in  the  world  is  found,  and  from  which  it  takes  its  name. 
It  is  more  than  likely  to  have  come  from  this  island,  as  there  are  many 
tons  shipped  from  there  to  all  parts  of  the  world  every  year.  It  may 


128  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT  CUTTING. 

have  come,  however,  from  Sweden,  Saxony,  Spain,  Greenland,  or  Mas- 
sachusetts ;  for  emery  is  found  in  all  these  places.  Wherever  it  came 
from,  it  is  a  sort  of  sapphire,  and  was  in  the  beginning  bluish  or  brown- 
ish gray  in  color,  although  it  is  often  artificially  colored  a  rich  reddish 
brown. 

Emery  is  first  crushed  with  steel  stamps ;  then  it  is  sifted.  It  is 
used  in  cutting  marble  and  granite,  also  for  polishing  plate-glass,  crystal, 
metals,  and  gems,  as  well  as  needles. 

PINS. 

Although  such  pins  as  we  use  now,  for  so  many  different  purposes 
that  it  would  be  very  difficult  to  enumerate  them,  are  of  a  comparatively 
recent  date,  pins  of  some  kind  seem  always  to  have  been  used.  The 
first  pins  were  thorns,  and  even  at  the  present  time  the  peasant  women 
of  Upper  Egypt  use  these  to  fasten  their  dresses. 

The  pins  now  in  common  use  are  made  very  rapidly  and  almost  en- 
tirely by  machinery.  After  the  wire  of  which  they  are  made  has  been 
wound  on  a  reel,  it  is  passed  between  straightening  pins  set  in  a  table. 
When  a  pin  has  passed  through  these  straightening  pins,  it  is  caught 
by  lateral  jaws,  beyond  which  enough  of  the  end  projects  to  form  a  pin- 
head  ;  against  this  projecting  portion  a  steel  punch  is  thrown,  which 
compresses  the  metal  by  a  die  arrangement  into  a  head.  The  pin  length 
is  immediately  cut  off,  and  drops  into  a  slit  which  lets  the  wire  pass 
through,  but  retains  the  head  so  that  the  points  are  held  against  a  file- 
cut  revolving  steel  roller.  The  pins  are  carried  along  this  roller  by 
gravitation,  until  they  fall  out  at  the  extremity,  well-pointed  pins. 

The  pins  are  next  cleaned  by  being  boiled  in  weak  beer,  and  are  then 
arranged  in  a  copper  pan  in  layers  alternating  with  layers  of  grained  tin. 
A  sprinkle  of  argol  and  water  enough  to  cover  the  pins  is  added,  and 
the  whole  is  boiled  for  several  hours,  after  which  they  come  out  having  a 
silvery  appearance. 

After  being  washed,  they  are  dried  by  revolving  in  a  big  vat  with 


SEVENTH    GRADE   WORK.  129 


dry  bran.  The  finished  pins  are  stuck  in  papers  by  means  of  an  auto- 
matic machine  which  also  folds  the  papers.  The  pins  are  then  ready  for 
the  market. 

Pins  were  a  very  different  article  during  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII. 
from  what  they  are  at  the  present  time.  A  law  was  enacted  then  that 
"  No  person  shall  put  on  sale  any  pins  as  shall  not  be  doubled-headed 
and  soldered  fast  to  the  shank,  well  smoothed,  shaven,  filled,  canted, 
and  sharpened."  It  was  during  the  reign  of  Charles  I.  that  a  pin- 
makers'  corporation  was  first  founded  in  London. 


130 


SCIENTIFIC   SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


EIGHTH    GRADE   WORK.  131 


CHAPTER   IX. 
EIGHTH   GRADE   WORK 

THE  principal  work  of  the  last  grade  in  this  system  of  sewing  and 
garment  cutting  is  the  drafting,  cutting,  and  making  of  an  infant's  out- 
fit and  of  a  dress  for  a  young  girl.  The  latter  is  usually  the  graduating 
dress  of  the  pupil,  and  is  of  Victoria  lawn  or  some  other  fine  white 
goods.  This  gown  is  in  every  way  perfectly  simple,  and  involves  only 
the  basic  principles  of  dressmaking.  More  than  this  would  open  a 
field  quite  beyond  the  scope  of  the  present  work,  which,  as  has  been 
stated,  is,  first  of  all,  educational ;  its  chief  purpose  being  to  make  the 
pupil  so  thoroughly  mistress  of  her  mind  and  hand  that  she  is  able  to 
undertake  with  ease  and  with  success  any  of  the  various  branches  of 
needlework,  such  as  tailoring,  dressmaking,  fine  sewing,  or  art  work. 

Since  one  of  the  foundation  principles  of  the  system  is  exactness  and 
thoroughness,  it  has  not  been  deemed  advisable  to  introduce  fancy  work 
of  any  sort,  as  it  would  be  quite  impossible  to  give  adequate  instruction 
in.  this  or  any  other  lines  of  advance  needlework  in  a  text-book  of  this 
kind.  It  is  nevertheless  true,  that  a  pupil  who  has  taken  the  entire 
course  indicated  in  this  book  will  have  become  so  complete  a  mistress 
of  the  needle  and  of  the  fundamental  principles  governing  its  use,  that 
the  technicalities  of  any  particular  line  can  be  easily  and  quickly  mas- 
tered. More  than  this,  as  the  pupil  has  learned,  in  each  instance,  to 
combine  and  to  separate,  it  will  be  easy  for  her  to  differentiate  results 
indefinitely.  This  is  demonstrated  in  the  miss's  waist  of  this  grade, 
which  is  simply  the  straight,  curveless  garment  of  a  child,  transformed 
by  slight  changes  into  one  suited  to  a  developed  girl. 

While  the  graduating  dress  and  the  infant's  outfit  form  the  princi- 


132 


SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


pal  work  of  this  grade,  the  first  work  is  the  linen  patch.  This  model 
is  the  finest  and  most  difficult  needlework  in  the  course ;  and  when  it 
can  be  executed  with  neatness  the  pupil  is  mistress  of  the  needle,  and 

can  with  care  readily  acquire  the  tech- 
nicalities of  any  special  department  of 
needlework. 


Pattern  of  Linen  Patches. 


THE  LINEN  PATCH. 

For  this  model,  take  a  piece  of  rather 
fine  linen  six  and  one-half  inches  wide 
and  seventeen  inches  long.  Three  and 
one-fourth  inches  from  each  end  draw 
two  threads,  and  turn  a  hem  for  hem- 
stitching. 

Crease  down  one-fourth  of  an  inch 
of  the  model  on  each  side,  and  turn  un- 
der one-eighth  of  an  inch  for  the  hem. 

When  these  two  hems  have  been 
basted,  measure  an  inch  and  a  half  from 
the  edge  of  the  long  side  and  the  same 
distance  from  the  drawn  threads  at  the 
end,  mark  off  a  square  of  three  inches, 
draw  a  thread,  and  cut.  After  creasing 
down  the  edge  of  this  opening  one- 
fourth  of  an  inch,  fold  in  such  a  way 
as  to  bring  the  four  corners  of  the  space 
together,  and  crease.  Then  turn  and  fold 
in  an  opposite  direction ;  again  bring 

the  corners  together,  and  crease.     In  this  way  the  center  of  each  side  of 

the  space  to  be  patched  is  obtained. 

The  opening  after  it  has  been  creased  is  three  and  one-half  inches 

square.     Cut  a  patch  four  and  one-half  inches  square,  fold,  and  crease 


EIGHTH   GRADE   WORK 


133 


ns 


through  the  center  in  both  directions.  Turn  down  the  edge  of  the 
patch  onje-half  an  inch  all  around,  place  so  that  the  creases  in  the  patch 
and  those  in  the  opening  come  together,  and  overhand  the  patch  into 
the  opening,  lurn  on  the  wrong  side,  and  cut  the  corners  of  the  model 
diagonally;  trim  these  edges,  then  turn  the  edge  of  the  patch  one- 
fourth  of  an  inch,  and  fell  onto  the  model  writh 
a  linen  hem. 

Set  a  second  patch  in  the  opposite  end  of 
the  model  in  the  same  way.  When  this  patch 
is  finished,  hemstitch  the  ends,  and  hem  the 
sides  with  the  linen  hem.  The  reason  the  hem- 
ming is  left  until  the  last  is,  that  should  there 
be  a  mistake  in  the  patches,  the  labor  of  hem- 
ming will  not  be  lost. 

Take  a  piece  of  linen  tape  three  and  one- 
half  inches  long,  and  one-fourth  of  an  inch 
wide,  and  baste  in  the  center  of  the  hem  at  the 
right  hand  end,  one  and  one-half  inches  from 
the  edge  on  each  side.  Turn  one-fourth  of  an 
inch  at  each  end,  and  backstitch  one-quarter  of 
an  inch  from  the  end,  and  after  it  has  been 
turned  in  hem  around  the  edge  and  end.  This 
hemming  with  the  backstitching  forms  a  square 
at  each  end  of  the  tape  loop.  At  even  dis- 
tances from  the  edge  of  the  hem,  mark  a  square 
with  the  point  of  the  stiletto  three-fourths  of  an  inch  on  each  side  of 
the  tape  loop,  and  within  this  space  have  the  pupil  put  the  initials 
of  her  name. 

On  the  other  end  of  the  model,  one  and  one-half  inches  from  the 
edge  and  the  center  of  the  hem,  make  an  eyelet  with  a  stiletto,  and 
work  with  a  blanket  stitch.  Measure  three  inches  to  the  right  and 
place  a  second  eyelet,  and  put  another  half-way  between  the  two.  In 


O   I   O 


Model  of  Linen  Patches  Finished. 


134  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 

the  center  of  the  hem,  three-quarters  of  an  inch  from  the  first  eyelet, 
put  a  loop  of  five  threads,  covered  with  buttonhole  stitch,  and  the  same 
distance  from  the  second  eyelet,  put  a  second  loop,  which  finishes  the 
model. 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWEBS. 

What  is  the  first  model  of  the  eighth  grade  ?  Am.  The  linen  patch, 
which  is  of  fine  linen  six  and  one-half  inches  wide  and  seventeen  inches 
long,  into  which  two  patches  are  set. 

What  is  the  first  work  to  be  done  ?  Ans.  Three  and  one-fourth  inches 
from  each  end,  draw  two  threads,  and  turn  and  baste  a  hem.  Crease  down 
on  each  side  of  the  model  one-fourth  of  an  inch,  and  turn  under  one-eighth 
of  an  inch,  and  baste. 

Where  is  the  first  patch  set  ?  Ans.  When  the  hems  have  been  basted, 
measure  an  inch  and  a  half  from  the  edge  of  the  long  side,  and  the  same 
distance  from  the  drawn  threads  at  the  end,  and  after  marking  oif  with  the 
point  of  a  stiletto  a  square  of  three  and  one-half  inches,  draw  threads  and  cut. 

What  is  the  next  step  ?  Ans.  When  the  edges  of  this  opening  have 
been  creased  down  on  all  sides  one-fourth  of  an  inch,  fold,  and  crease  in  the 
center  on  both  sides. 

How  large  is  the  opening  after  the  edges  have  been  turned  in  ?  Ans. 
It  is  three  and  one-half  inches  square. 

How  large  a  piece  of  linen  is  to  patch  this  opening  ?  Ans.  A  piece  four 
and  one-half  inches  square. 

How  much  is  the  edge  of  the  patch  turned  in  ?  Ans.  One-half  an  inch 
on  each  side. 

How  is  this  patch  placed  ?  Ans.  It  is  first  creased  through  the  center 
both  ways,  and  the  creases  of  the  patch  are  placed  even  with  the  correspond- 
ing creases  in  the  model,  and  the  two  are  overhanded  together. 

How  is  the  patch  finished  ?  Ans.  The  edges  of  the  model  which  have 
been  turned  in  are  cut  diagonally  at  the  corners,  then  trimmed,  and  the 
edges  of  the  patch  turned  in  one-fourth  of  an  inch,  and  felled  to  the  model 
with  the  linen  hem. 

How  is  the  second  patch  placed  ?  Ans.  In  the  opposite  end  of  the 
model,  in  the  same  way. 


EIGHTH    GRADE  WORK.  135 

How  are  the  edges  finished  ?  Ans.  The  ends  are  hemstitched,  and  the 
sides  hemmed  with  the  linen  hem. 

What  is  placed  at  the  right-hand  end  of  the  model  on  the  broad  hem  ? 
Ans.  A  loop -and  two  initials. 

How  is  the  loop  cut  and  placed  ?  Ans.  It  is  a  piece  of  linen  tape  three 
and  one-half  inches  long  and  one-fourth  of  an  inch  wide,  put  on  in  the  cen- 
ter of  the  hem  one-half  an  inch  from  the  edge.  It  is  turned  in  a  quarter  of 
an  inch,  backstitched  a  fourth  of  an  inch  from  each  end,  and  hemmed  at  the 
ends  in  such  a  way  that  with  the  backstitching  it  forms  a  square. 

How  are  the  initials  placed  ?  Ans.  A  square  of  three-fourths  of  an 
inch  is  drawn  in  the  center  of  the  hem  on  either  side  of  the  loop,  with  the 
point  of  the  stiletto,  and  in  each  of  these  squares  an  initial  is  placed. 

What  finishes  the  other  end  of  the  model  ?     Ans.    Eyelets  and  loops. 

How  are  the  eyelets  placed  ?  Ans.  One  and  one-half  inches  from  the 
edge  of  the  model  in  the  center  of  the  hem,  make  an  eyelet  with  a  stiletto, 
and  work  it  with  the  blanket  stitch ;  measure  three  inches  to  the  right,  and 
make  another  eyelet,  and  place  still  another  exactly  half-way  between  these 
two. 

How  are  the  loops  placed  ?  Ans.  In  the  center  of  the  hem  between  the 
first  and  second,  and  between  the  second  and  third  eyelets. 

INFANT'S    OUTFIT. 

Up  to  this  point  the  sewing  has  been  done  by  hand ;  in  making  the 
infant's  outfit,  machine  sewing  is  first  introduced.  While  the  class 
makes  the  entire  outfit,  the  different  pieces  are  made  by  individual  pu- 
pils, as  there  is  not  sufficient  time  for  each  pupil  to  make  the  entire  set. 
Each  garment,  however,  should  be  so  carefully  explained  to  the  class 
that  no  member  of  it  need  have  any  difficulty  in  making  the  whole 
wardrobe. 

The  outfit  consists  of  a  flannel  band,  a  shirt,  a  pinning  blanket,  a 
flannel  skirt,  a  cambric  skirt,  a  wrapper,  a  sack,  and  a  dress.  There  is 
also  a  miniature  bed,  furnished  witli  sheets  which  are  hemstitched  at  the 
top,  pillow  slips,  a  blanket  and  quilt,  all  made  to  fit  the  little  bed. 


136 


SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


THE  FLANNEL   BAND. 

This  band  should  be  twenty-four  inches  long  and  nine  inches  wide. 
Turn  down  one  inch  on  the  two  opposite  sides  and  the  same  on  the  two 
ends.  The  hem  should  be  turned  in  this  way  that  the  corners  may  be 

neat  and  also  uniform.  When  the 
hem  is  turned  and  basted,  catch- 
stitch  it  on  the  right  side  that  the 
smooth  surface  may  come  next  the 
body. 

THE  SHIRT. 

The  material  of  Avhich  this  shirt 
is  made  is  fine  linen.  The  measures 
used  are  twenty-four  inches  for  the 
bust  measure;  eight  inches  for  the 
front  length,  with  two  inches  added 
for  the  neck  ;  six  inches  for  the  side 
length  ;  two  and  one-half  inches  for 
the  shoulder.  The  shoulder  is  meas- 
ured from  the  point  where  the  lines 
C  and  D  intersect,  and  from  this 
point  draw  a  curved  line  to  the  inter- 
section of  lines  B  and  F.  A  slight 
curve  is  drawn  along  line  D  to  one 
inch  below  F.  This  forms  the  armhole.  To  the  right  of  line  A,  add 
one-half  an  inch,  arid  from  this  point  to  a  point  a  little  below  line  F 
draw  a  slightly  curved  line  for  the  under-arm  seam.  The  pattern  should 
be  so  placed  that  both  the  front  and  the  shoulder  are  on  a  doubled  fold 
of  the  goods.  This  is  accomplished  by  doubling  the  goods  across  the 
width  for  the  shoulders,  and  lengthwise  for  the  front,  making  the  goods 
of  four  thicknesses.  Through  the  lace  trimming  about  the  neck,  a  rib- 
bon is  run,  and  this  is  drawn  up  and  tied. 


Infant's  Shirt. 


EIGHTH   GRADE   WORK. 


137 


THE  PINNING   BLANKET. 

Cut  two  thirty-six-inch  lengths  of  flannel  which  is  thirty-six  inches 
wide,  and  seam  rthe  two  together.  Turn  a  two-inch  hem  on  the  two  sides 
and  across  the  bottom,  and  catch-stitch  on  the  right  side.  The  waist  of 
this  little  open  skirt,  which  is  like  the  other  waists  of  the  system,  with 
only  this  difference,  that  two 
inches  are  added  to  the  front 
length  instead  of  two  and  one- 
half,  is  drafted  from  the  follow- 
ing measurements  :  Bust  meas- 
ure twenty-four  inches,  waist 
measure  twenty-four  inches, 
front  length  six  inches,  side 
length  four  inches,  shoulder  two 
and  one-half  inches.  In  drafting 
this  little  waist,  an  extra  help 
line  is  drawn  one  inch  below 
line  C  to  make  a  straight 
shoulder.  As  the  front  and 
back  are  very  similar,  they  are 
not  drafted  separately. 

For  the  front,  lay  the  pat- 
tern on  the  doubled  goods,  pin 
and  cut,  allowing  one-half  an 
inch  for  seams  at  the  sides  and 
shoulders,  and  one  and  one-third  inches  for  the  hem,  and  closing  at  the 
right  of  the  pattern.  The  back  is  cut  in  the  same  way,  allowing  one- 
half  an  inch  for  seams  at  the  sides  and  shoulders,  but  leaving  an  opening. 
The  armholes  and  neck  are  cut  out  a  little  more  in  the  front  than  in  the 
back.  An  inch  is  cut  out  around  the  neck,  and  it,  together  with  the 
armholes,  is  finished  with  a  half-inch  bias  binding  of  the  goods  ;  the  side 


Underwaist. 


138  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


and  shoulder  seams  are  finished  with  a  French  fell.  The  pinning  blan- 
ket is  plaited  to  fit  the  twenty-four-inch  waist  measure  of  this  under- 
waist,  and  is  joined  to  it,  the  seam  being  finished  with  a  piece  of  bias 
cambric.  The  buttonholes  of  this  waist  are  two  inches  apart. 

THE  FLANNEL   SKIRT. 

Cut  two  lengths  of  thirty-six-inch  flannel  thirty-one  inches  long. 
Join  both  sides,  and  catch-stitch  the  seams.  Turn  a  two-inch  hem  at 
the  bottom,  and  catch-stitch.  In  the  center  of  one  width,  cut  a  six-inch 
placket.  Turn  a  hem  on  the  right  side  of  this  placket  one-half  an  inch, 
and  on  the  left  one-fourth  of  an  inch  wide,  and  catch-stitch.  This  hem 
is  stayed  on  the  right  side  by  backstitching  in  the  shape  of  a  right  angle, 
and  on  the  wrong  side  a  bar  is  worked.  This  skirt  is  plaited,  and  joined, 
as  the  pinning  blanket  is,  to  an  underwaist,  which  is  opened,  not  in  the 
front,  but  in  the  back.  With  this  exception  it  is  like  the  one  used  with 
the  pinning  blanket. 

THE  CAMBRIC  SKIRT. 

This  skirt  is  of  two  lengths  of  thirty-six-inch  cambric  thirty-four 
inches  long.  After  these  lengths  are  joined  on  both  sides,  a  five-inch  hem 
is  turned  and  stitched,  and  the  bottom  is  finished  with  lace  or  embroidery. 
If  a  ruffle  is  desired,  one-half  the  width  of  the  skirt  should  be  allowed  for 
fullness.  The  skirt  is  gathered,  and  of  course  the  gathers  are  carefully 
stroked  ;  and  it  is  then  sewed  to  an  underwaist,  with  a  bias  piece  to  fell 
over  the  seam.  The  placket  is  like  that  of  the  flannel  skirt. 

THE    WRAPPER. 

The  same  measures  are  used  in  drafting  the  wrapper  which  are  used 
for  the  waist,  except  that  the  drawing  is  extended  twenty-eight  inches 
beyond  the  waist,  and  one  and  one-half  times  the  width  is  added  for  the 
slant,  which  in  this  case  is  nine  inches,  as  the  width  is  six  inches,  and 


EIGHTH    GRADE   WORK. 


139 


the  slant  begins  at  the  armhole,  and  extends  to  the  bottom  of  the  gar- 
ment. The  bottom  of  the  garment  is  curved  from  the  center  of  the 
width  to  the  side  seams,  from  which  two  inches  are  taken,  as  the  slant 


Infant's  Wrapper. 


B  AND 


Bishop  Sleeve. 


makes  the  seams  longer  than 
the  rest  of  the  garment.  The 
pattern  is  placed  on  the  doubled 
cloth,  with  one  and  three-fourths 

inches  allowed  for  the  front  lap.  There  is  the  same  allowance  for 
seams  as  in  the  waist.  The  material  used  is  either  flannel  or  cash- 
mere, and  if  the  material  is  heavy  the  seams  should  be  clipped. 

For  the  collar,  cut  a  piece  of  the  goods,  five  inches  wide,  the  size 
and  shape  of  the  neck.     After  shaping  it,  join  the  outer  edges  on  the 


14O 


SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


B, 


wrong  side.  When  finished,  this  collar  should  be  two  and  one-half 
inches  wide.  Pin  the  center  of  the  collar  to  the  center  of  the  garment 
in  the  back,  and  sew  on  the  upper  side,  felling  the  under  side  over  the 
seam. 

The  plain  bishop  sleeve  is  drafted  like  the  dress  sleeve,  with  three 
measures,  —  the  outside  arm  nine  inches,  the  width  twelve  inches,  and 

the  inside  arm  five  and  one-half 
inches.  The  band  at  the  hand 
is  six  inches  long,  and  two  and 
one-half  inches  wide.  In  put- 
ting the  sleeve  in  the  armhole, 
the  seam  of  the  sleeve  is  placed 
one  and  one-half  inches  toward 
the  front  from  the  under-arm 
seam,  and  most  of  the  fullness 
is  gathered  about  the  shoulder 
seam.  The  little  wrapper  is 
finished  down  the  front  with 
ties  of  baby  ribbon,  or  it  may 


be  buttoned  if  preferred. 

THE  SACK. 

The  waist  pattern,  with  one 
inch  added  to  each  of  the  side 
seams  in  excess  of  the  allow- 
ance for  seams,  and  one  and 

one-half  inches  added  to  the  length,  with  a  slight  curve  below  the  line 
E,  forms  the  sack.  The  collar  and  sleeves  are  like  those  used  for  the 
wrapper.  A  plain  sleeve  may  be  used  if  desired.  This  sack,  which  is 
of  some  soft  woolen  material,  is  either  pinked  or  finished  with  an  em- 
broidered scallop  about  the  edge. 


Infant's  Sack. 


EIGHTH   GRADE    WORK.  141 


THE  DRESS. 

Whatever  the  style  of  the  dress,  it  should  measure  one  yard  from  the 
neck  to  the  lower  edge  of  the  hem.  If  it  is  a  dress  with  a  waist,  the 
skirt  is  similar  to  the  cambric  skirt,  and  the  waist  identical  with  the  one 
already  described.  The  bishop  sleeve,  like  those  in  the  wrapper,  or  a 
plain  sleeve,  may  be  used.  If  the  dress  is  a  yoke  with  full  skirt,  the 
yoke  is  simply  the  waist  cut  off  so  that  the  desired  width  is  left,  with 
the  skirt  cut  about  four  inches  longer,  or  whatever  the  difference  is  be- 
tween the  width  of  the  yoke  and  the  entire  waist.  With  the  exception 
of  the  length  of  the  skirt,  the  yoke  dress  is  cut  the  same  as  one  made 
with  the  waist. 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

What  constitutes  a  simple  outfit  for  an  infant  ?  Ans.  A  flannel  band, 
it  pinning  blanket,  a  flannel  skirt,  a  cambric  skirt,  a  wrapper,  a  sack,  and  a 
dress.  There  should  also  be  a  little  bed  with  sheets,  pillow  cases,  a  blanket, 
and  a  quilt. 

What  are  the  measures  for  the  flannel  band  ?  Ans.  It  is  cut  twenty- 
four  inches  long  and  nine  inches  wide. 

How  is  it  finished  ?  Ans.  With  an  inch-wide  hem,  turned  first  along 
the  sides,  and  then  across  the  ends,  and  is  catch-stitched  on  the  right  side. 

Why  is  the  hem  turned  this  way  ?  Ans.  The  two  sides  and  then  the 
two  ends  are  turned  that  the  corners  may  be  neat  and  uniform,  and  the  hem 
is  turned  on  the  outside  that  the  smooth  side  may  come  next  the  body. 

Of  what  material  is  the  skirt  ?     Ans.    Fine  linen. 

How  many  measures  are  used,  and  what  are  they  ?  Ans.  Four,  —  a 
bust,  a  front,  a  side,  arid  a  shoulder  measure. 

How  is  the  pattern  for  the  shirt  laid  on  the  goods  ?  Ans.  So  that  the 
shoulders  and  also  the  front  are  on  a  doubled  fold  of  the  goods. 

How  is  it  drawn  up  about  the  neck  ?  Ans.  With  a  ribbon  run  through 
the  lace  trimming. 

What  is  a  pinning  blanket  ?  Ans.  It  is  an  open  flannel  skirt  of  two 
lengths  of  thirty-six-inch  flannel,  thirty-six  inches  long. 


142  SCIENTIFIC   SEWING  AND   GARMENT  CUTTING. 

How  is  it  made  ?  Ans.  The  two  lengths  of  flannel  are  seamed  together ; 
a  two-inch  hem  is  turned  down  the  sides  and  across  the  bottom  ;  it  is  then 
plaited,  and  sewed  on  an  underwaist. 

How  is  the  nnderwaist  for  the  pinning  blanket  drafted?  Ans.  Like 
the  other  waist  of  this  system,  with  two  inches  added  to  the  front  length, 
instead  of  two  and  one-half. 

What  are  the  measures  used  for  this  infant's  waist  ?  Ans.  A  bust  meas- 
ure of  twenty-four  inches,  waist  measure  twenty-four  inches,  front  length  six 
inches,  side  length  four  inches,  shoulder  two  and  one-half  inches. 

Is  the  front  different  from  the  back  ?  Ans.  No,  it  is  the  same,  except 
that  the  neck  and  armholes  are  cut  out  a  little  more  in  the  front  than  in 
the  back. 

How  is  the  waist  cut  ?  Ans.  The  pattern  is  laid  on  the  doubled  goods, 
one-half  an  inch  allowed  for  seams,  and  one  and  three-fourths  inches  for  hem 
and  closing. 

How  is  the  pinning  blanket  joined  to  the  waist  ?  Ans.  It  is  plaited,  and 
then  sewed  onto  the  waist  with  a  narrow  bias  band  of  cambric  to  fell  over 
the  seam. 

How  is  the  flannel  skirt  cut  ?  Ans.  Of  two  lengths  of  thirty-six-inch 
flannel,  thirty-one  inches  long. 

How  is  it  made  ?  Ans.  The  lengths  of  flannel  are  seamed  together,  a 
hem  two  inches  wide  is  turned,  a  six-inch  placket  is  cut  in  the  center  of  one 
width  ;  and  after  this  is  hemmed  and  finished,  the  skirt  is  plaited,  and  joined 
to  the  underwaist  as  the  pinning  blanket  is. 

How  is  the  cambric  skirt  cut  ?  Ans.  It  is  cut  of  two  lengths  of  thirty- 
six-inch  cambric,  thirty-four  inches  long. 

How  is  it  made  ?  Ans.  Like  the  flannel  skirt,  except  that  there  is  a 
five-inch  hem  turned,  and  it  is  gathered  instead  of  being  plaited. 

How  is  the  wrapper  drafted  ?  Ans.  Like  the  waist,  with  the  drawing 
extended  twenty-eight  inches  beyond  the  waist  line,  and  one  and  one-half 
times  the  width  added  for  the  slant. 

How  is  the  garment  cut  ?  Ans.  The  pattern  is  placed  on  the  doubled 
cloth,  with  one  and  one-fourth  inches  allowed  for  the  lap  in  front. 

What  are  the  measures  for  the  bishop  s4eeve  of  this  wrapper?     Ans. 


EIGHTH   GRADE  WORK.  143 


For  the  outside  arm  nine  inches,  the  width  twelve  inches,  and  the  inside 
arm  five  and  one-half  inches. 

How  is  the  sleeve  put  in  the  armhole  ?  Ans.  The  seam  of  the  sleeve  is 
placed  one  and  one-half  inches  toward  the  front  from  the  under-arm  seam. 

How  is  the  sack  drafted  ?  Ans.  Like  the  waist,  with  one  inch  added  to 
each  of  the  side  seams  in  excess  of  the  allowance  for  seams,  with  one-half  an 
inch  added  to  the  length,  and  a  slight  curve  below  the  waist  line  E. 

What  kind  of  a  sleeve  has  the  sack  ?  Ans.  Either  a  loose  coat  sleeve  or 
a  bishop  sleeve  like  the  wrapper. 

How  is  the  edge  finished  ?  Ans.  Either  with  pinking,  or  an  embroid- 
ered scallop. 

How  long  should  the  dress  be  from  neck  to  hem  ?     Ans.    One  yard. 

How  is  it  drafted  ?     Ans.    Like  the  waist  and  cambric  skirt. 

How  is  the  dress  with  yoke  drafted  ?  Ans.  The  waist  pattern  is  cut  off, 
leaving  as  much  of  the  upper  part  as  is  desired  for  a  yoke.  The  skirt  is  cut 
about  four  inches  longer  than  the  regular  dress  skirt,  or  still  longer  if  the 
yoke  is  very  short. 

GIRL'S   WAIST. 

Take  the  measures  as  for  the  child's  waist.  Then  draw  a  parallelo- 
gram as  for  that  waist,  with  half  the  bust  measure  for  the  base  line  A,  and 
the  front  length  with  two  and  one-half  inches  added  for  the  vertical  line 
B,  which  is  drawn  as  a  dotted  help  line.  The  horizontal  line  C  is  also  a 
dotted  help  line,  while  the  vertical  line  D  is  a  cutting  line.  Measure 
the  side  length  on  the  vertical  lines  B  and  D,  and  from  these  two  points 
draw  a  dotted  help  line  E.  Measure  the  front  length  on  the  vertical 
lines  B  and  D,  and  draw  a  dotted  help  line  F.  Measure  one-fourth  of 
the  bust  measure  on  line  A  from  the  left-hand  lower  right  angle  of  the 
parallelogram,  and  also  on  line  C,  and  draw  a  straight  dotted  help  line  G. 

Take  half  the  back  width,  and  measure  on  the  base  line  A  from  the 
lower  right-band  angle  of  the  parallelogram,  and  draw  the  vertical  help 
line  H.  From  line  C  down  line  D,  measure  an  eighth  of  an  inch,  point 
1,  and  one  inch  and  a  half  on  line  C  and  half  an  inch  up,  point  2,  and 


144 


SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 


connect  with  a  slightly  curved  line  which  forms  the  back  neck.  From 
point  2  to  the  intersection  of  lines  H  and  F,  draw  an  oblique  line  ;  meas- 
ure the  length  of  the  shoulder,  point  3.  Draw  a  slightly  curved  line  from 
this  point  to  the  intersection  of  lines  E  and  H  for  the  back  arm  scye. 

Measure  off  one  inch  on  line  A  from  the  angle  of  A  and  D,  and  draw 
a  help  line  from  the  back  of  the  neck  to   this  point.     Measure   half 


--C 


Girl's  Waist. 

the  shoulder  length,  point  4.  Measure  three  inches  to  the  left  on  line 
A  from  the  angle  of  lines  A  and  D,  and  draw  a  dotted  help  line  I  to 
point  4.  Measure  three  inches  along  the  arm  scye  from  the  end  of  the 
shoulder  line,  point  5,  and  draw  a  slightly  curving  line  to  the  help  line 
I,  and  follow  it  to  line  A.  This  line  is  the  back  form. 

Add  an  inch  and  three-quarters  to  lines  A  and  C  for  the  back  lap, 
and  connect  these  two  points  with  the  cutting  line  J. 


EIGHTH   GRADE   WORK. 


145 


Girl's  Graduating  Dress. 


146  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


Measure  two  inches  and  a  half  down  line  B,  point  6,  and  the  same 
distance  on  line  C,  point  7,  and  connect  with  a  curved  line,  which  forms 
the  neck.  From  this  curved  line  to  line  A,  make  B,  the  dotted  help 
line,  a  cutting  line.  From  the  neck  line  on  C,  draw  an  oblique  line  to 
the  intersection  of  lines  H  and  F,  point  8.  Measure  the  length  of  the 
shoulder  from  the  neck  on  this  line,  point  9,  and  draw  a  curved  line  to 
the  intersection  of  E  and  H,  forming  the  front  arm  scye. 

Measure  from  the  angle  formed  by  lines  A  and  B,  one  inch  and  a 
half  to  the  right,  point  10  ;  again  measure  one  inch  and  a  half  from  point 
10  to  point  11.  Half-way  between  these  two,  draw  a  straight  help  line 
upward  five  inches,  and  connect  points  10  and  11  with  an  oblique  cut- 
ting  line  coming  together  at  the  top  of  this  five-inch  help  line.  This 
forms  the  first  dart.  Measure  one  inch  to  the  right  of  the  last  line, 
point  12,  and  an  inch  and  a  half  to  the  right,  point  13.  Half-way  be- 
tween these  two  points,  draw  a  straight  dotted  help  line  upward  six 
inches.  Connect  points  12  and  13  with  the  upper  part  of  the  six-inch 
dotted  help  line  by  oblique  lines,  which  gives  the  second  dart. 

After  excluding  the  darts,  if  line  A  is  longer  than  half  the  waist 
measure,  take  off  the  difference  equally  on  each  side  of  line  H. 

WAIST   OF  MANILLA    PAPER. 

When  the  measures  have  been  taken,  let  them  be  reduced  to  quarter 
inches.  Lay  the  pattern  on  the  manilla  paper  in  such  a  way  that  the 
front  is  on  a  fold  of  the  paper,  allowing  an  inch  at  the  back  for  buttons 
and  buttonholes,  and  an  eighth  of  an  inch  for  the  shoulder  and  side 
seams.  Sew  the  seams  with  a  backstitch  with  a  No.  8  needle  and 
No.  50  white  thread. 

If  the  difference  between  the  bust  and  waist  is  four  inches,  there 
should  be  but  one  dart  and  no  slant  at  the  back ;  if  there  is  a  difference 
of  five  inches,  there  should  be  one  dart  and  one  inch  slant  at  the  back  ; 
if  there  is  a  difference  of  seven  inches,  there  should  be  two  darts  and 
one  inch  slant  at  the  back. 


EIGHTH   GRADE   WORK.  147 

QUESTIONS    AND    ANSWERS. 

How  should  the  measure  for  a  girl's  waist  be  taken  ?  Ans.  The  same 
as  for  a  child's  waist. 

When  the  measures  are  taken,  what  is  done  ?  Ans.  A  parallelogram  is 
drawn  with  half  the  bust  measure  for  the  base  line  A,  and  the  front  length 
with  two  and  a  half  inches  added  for  the  vertical  line  B. 

What  are  the  next  lines  ?  Ans.  Measure  the  side  length  on  vertical 
lines  B  and  D,  and  from  these  two  points  draw  a  dotted  help  line  E ;  meas- 
ure the  front  length  on  vertical  lines  B  and  D,  and  draw  a  dotted  help  line  F. 

How  is  the  next  line  found  ?  Ans.  Measure  one-fourth  of  the  bust 
measure  on  line  A  from  the  left-hand  lower  right  angle  of  the  parallelogram, 
and  also  on  line  C,  and  draw  a  straight  dotted  help  line  G. 

How  is  the  line  that  forms  the  under-arm  seam  found  ?  Ans.  Measure 
half  the  back  width  on  the  base  line  A  from  the  right-hand  angle  of  the 
parallelogram,  and  draw  perpendicular  help  line  H  to  C. 

How  is  the  curve  in  the  back  of  the  neck  formed  ?  Ans.  From  line  C, 
down  line  D,  measure  an  eighth  of  an  inch,  point  1,  and  one  inch  and  a  half 
on  line  C  and  half  an  inch  up,  point  2,  and  connect  the  two  points  with  a 
slightly  curving  line. 

How  is  the  shoulder  slant  formed  ?  Ans.  From  point  2  to  the  intersec- 
tion of  lines  H  and  F,  draw  an  oblique  line,  and  measure  the  length  of  the 
shoulder,  point  3. 

How  is  the  back  arm  scye  formed  ?  Ans.  Draw  a  slightly  curving  line 
from  point  3  to  the  intersection  of  lines  E  and  H. 

How  is  the  slant  of  the  back  formed  ?  Ans.  From  the  angle  of  A  and 
D,  measure  an  inch  on  line  A,  and  draw  a  help  line  from  the  back  of  the 
neck  to  this  point. 

How  is  the  side  form  obtained  ?  Ans.  Measure  half  the  shoulder  length, 
point  4,  then  measure  on  line  A  three  inches  to  the  left  from  the  angle  of 
lines  A  and  D,  and  draw  a  dotted  help  line  I  to  point  4.  Measure  three 
inches  along  the  arm  scye  from  the  end  of  the  shoulder  line,  point  5,  and 
draw  a  slightly  curving  line  to  help  line  I,  and  follow  it  to  base  line  A. 

How  is  the  back  lap  formed  ?  Ans.  Add  an  inch  and  three-quarters  to 
lines  A  and  C,  and  connect  with  cutting  line  J. 


148  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT  CUTTING. 

How  is  the  front  part  of  the  neck  formed  ?  Ans.  Measure  two  inches 
and  a  half  down  line  B,  point  6,  and  the  same  distance  on  line  C,  point  7, 
and  connect  with  a  curved  line. 

How  is  the  front  shoulder  formed  ?  Ans.  From  the  neck  line  on  C, 
draw  an  oblique  line  to  the  intersection  of  lines  H  and  F,  point  8,  and  meas- 
ure the  length  of  the  shoulder  on  this  line  point  9. 

How  is  the  front  arm  scye  formed  ?  Ans.  From  point  9,  draw  a  curved 
line  to  the  intersection  of  lines  H  and  E. 

How  is  the  first  dart  formed  ?  Ans.  From  the  angle  of  lines  A  and  B, 
measure  one  inch  and  a  half  to  the  right,  point  10 ;  again  measure  one  and 
a  half  inches  to  the  right,  point  11 ;  half-way  between  these,  draw  a  help 
line  straight  upward,  five  inches  in  length,  and  connect  points  10  and  11 
with  the  top  of  this  help  line  by  oblique  lines. 

How  is  the  second  dart  formed  ?  Ans.  Measure  one  inch  to  the  right 
of  the  last  dart,  point  12,  and  again  an  inch  and  a  half  to  the  right,  point 
13.  Half-way  between  these  two  points,  draw  straight  upward  a  dotted 
help  line  six  inches  in  length;  connect  points  12  and  13  with  the  upper  part 
of  this  line  by  oblique  lines. 

If,  after  the  darts  are  taken  out,  line  A  is  longer  than  half  the  waist 
measure,  what  is  done  ?  Ans.  Half  of  the  difference  is  taken  off  from  each 
side  of  line  H. 

THE  SLEEVE,    THE  SKIRT,   AND  REVIEW   WORK. 

The  sleeve  is  measured,  drafted,  and  cut  on  the  same  plan  as  the 
sleeve  of  the  child's  waist.  As  the  pupil  is  now  familiar  with  the  prin- 
ciples of  the  system,  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  make  such  alterations  in  the 
sleeve  as  prevailing  styles  may  demand. 

Draft  the  sleeve  like  the  lining  described  above  to  point  5,  which  is 
connected  with  the  right  angle  formed  by  lines  C  and  D  by  a  curved 
line.  The  under-arm  curve  is  identical  with  that  of  the  lining.  From 
point  2  measure  two  inches  toward  the  wrist,  and  draw  a  dotted  line  to 
point  1.  In  this  pattern  line  D  is  made  a  cutting  line  from  C  to  point 
1,  and  points  1  and  2  are  connected  by  a  cutting  line. 

In  cutting  the  sleeve,  line  D  is  placed  on  a  fold  of  the  goods,  and  is 


EIGHTH   GRADE  WORK. 


149 


cut  along  the  solid  line,  allowing  one-half  an  inch  for  the  inner  seam. 
Be  careful  in  cutting  a  pair  of  sleeves  that  they  are  not  both  cut  for 
one  arm.     For  practice,  the  measures  should  be  reduced  to  one-fourth 
of  an  inch,  and  several  pairs  of  sleeves  of  ma- 
nilla  paper  cut  and  made. 

The  skirt  is  of  the  plain,  full  sort,  made  of 
straight  widths,  with  five  inches  added  to  the 
length  desired,  for  the  hem.  The  placket  is 
like  the  child's  skirt  placket.  Before  gather- 
ing, the  skirt  should  be  divided  into  four  parts, 
with  six  inches  more  in  each,  of  the  two  back 
divisions  than  in  each  of  the  two  front  parts. 

The  last  work  of  this  grade  and  of  the  sys- 
tem is  a  review  of  all  the  work,  beginning 
with  the  practical  darning,  and  closing  with  a 
complete  outfit,  either  for  the  big  doll  or  a 
small  child.  The  pupils  should  have,  when 
they  finish  the  course,  a  complete  set  of  the 
models  of  the  system  which  have  been  per- 
fectly executed  by  them. 

QUESTIONS    FOR    REVIEW. 

What  is  the  first  work  of  the  eighth  grade  ? 

Why  is  the  linen  patch  more  difficult  than  the  one  of  gingham  ? 

What  is  the  size  of  the  linen  patch  model  ? 

What  is  the  first  work  on  this  model  ? 

Why  is  the  hemstitching  of  the  ends  and  the  hemming  of  the  sides  of  the 
model  left  until  the  patches  are  completed  ? 

How  are  the  patches  placed  ? 

After  the  patches  are  set,  and  the  hemstitching  and  hemming  done,  how 
is  the  model  finished  ? 

How  are  the  measures  of  the  girl's  waist  taken  ? 

In  what  way  is  the  girl's  waist  different  from  the  child's  waist  ? 


150  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT  CUTTING. 

How  are  the  darts  placed  ? 

How  is  the  side  form  placed  ? 

How  is  the  back  slant  obtained  ? 

How  is  the  sleeve  drafted  and  cut  ? 

How  is  the  skirt  cut  ? 

What  is  darning  ? 

How  is  a  diagonal  tear  mended  ? 

Like  what  sort  of  weaving  is  the  over  and  under  darn  ? 

Like  what  weaving  is  the  linen  darn  ? 

Is  the  knitted  darn  like  any  kind  of  weaving  ? 

Is  all  patching  done  in  the  same  way  ? 

How  does  the  drafting  of  pants  differ  from  the  drafting  of  drawers  ? 

How  does  the  blouse  waist  differ  from  a  child's  waist  ? 

What  geometrical  figure  is  used  in  cutting  the  different  garments  of  this 


SPINNING  AND    WEAVING. 

Spinning  is  the  art  of  twisting  together  a  number  of  filaments  or 
fibers  in  such  a  manner  that  a  thread  or  line  of  greater  length  than  the 
single  fibers  of  which  it  is  composed  is  produced.  So  ancient  is  this 
art  that  nothing  is  known  of  its  beginning.  Herodotus,  Ovid,  and  other 
classic  historians  tell  of  spindle  and  distaff  spinning.  The  flax  was 
wound  about  the  distaff  with  one  end  inserted  in  a  slit  at  the  top  of 
the  spindle,  which  is  a  stick  ten  or  twelve  inches  long.  The  weight 
of  the  spindle  continually  carried  down  the  thread  as  it  was  formed. 

A  great  improvement  on  the  spindle  and  distaff  was  the  hand  spin- 
ning wheel.  When  or  by  whom  this  was  invented  is  not  known.  An 
excellent  thread  was  made  with  this  wheel ;  but  the  process  was  slow 
and  laborious,  and  as  a  consequence  the  weaving  industry  was  very 
much  circumscribed.  The  invention  of  the  spinning  jenny  by  James 
Hargreaves  in  1764  revolutionized  weaving  as  well  as  spinning.  By 
substituting  the  mechanical  for  the  manual  process,  one  person  could 
spin  as  much  as  twenty  persons  could  with  the  spinning  wheel.  But 


EIGHTH   GRADE   WORK. 


151 


the  thread  made  by  the  mechanical  process,  while  suitable  for  weft,  was 
only  fairly  good  for  warp.  It  remained  for  Richard  Arkwright  to  invent 
a  machine,  five  years  later,  with  which  a  thread  suitable  for  all  purposes 
could  be  made.  But  this  was  not  the  end.  Samuel  Compton,  uniting 
the  best  points  of  the  Hargreave  and  Arkwright  machines,  fixed  the 


Spinning. 

creels  of  rovings  in  the  frame,  and  transferring  his  spindles  to  a  moving 
carriage,  produced  the  spinning  mule.  Thus,  from  the  crude  beginning 
of  spindle  and  distaff,  has  developed  the  time-old  art  of  spinning,  which 
now  is  accomplished  with  wonderful  speed  and  very  little  manual  labor. 
"  Weaving  is  an  art,"  says  Dr.  Johnson,  in  his  dictionary,  "  by  which 
threads  of  any  substance  are  crossed  and  interlaced  so  as  to  be  arranged 
into  a  permanently  expanded  form."  In  all  weaving,  there  are  two  kinds 


152  SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND    GARMENT   CUTTING. 

of  threads  used,  one  called  the  warp,  and  the  other  the  weft.  The  warp, 
which  is  generally,  but  not  always,  the  parallel  threads,  is  mounted  on 
the  loom  before  the  weaving  begins.  The  weft  is  the  thread  that 
crosses  and  intersects  the  warp. 

The  first  looms  were  two  transverse  bare  attached  to  pegs  driven 
into  the  ground.      Between  these  bars  the  warp  was 
extended.      The  weaver,  sitting  flat  on  the  ground, 
put  the  weft  under  and  over  the  warp  with  his  hands, 
using  no  implement  whatever.     Then  came  the  ver- 
tical  loom,   at   which   two  weavers   could   work,  al- 
though they  used  their  hands  only.     Still  better  was 
the  Grecian  vertical  loom.    With 
this  was  used  a  rod  which  Avas 
both  shuttle  and  batten,  and  which 
had  a  hook  on  the  end  by  means 
of   which    the    weft   was   drawn 
through  the  warp. 

The  development  of  this  uni- 
versally necessary  art  was  very 
slow.     Even  as  late  as  a  hundred 
years  ago  crude  looms  were  to  be 
found  in  almost  every  farmhouse, 
and  a  large  proportion  of  the  mak- 
ing   of    cloth    was    an    individual 
matter,   as   all    but  the   very   rich 
spun    the   thread    for,   and    wove, 

Spinning  Wheel. 

such  fabrics  as  they  used. 

Inadequate  as  were  these  looms  of  a  century  ago,  in  comparison 
with  those  used  in  the  great  factories  of  the  present  day,  they  were 
elaborate  labor-saving  machines  compared  with  the  crude,  simple  looms 
which  are  still  used  in  India  in  making  such  exquisite  fabrics  as  India 
muslins  and  cashmere  shawls.  These  looms  are  simply  two  bamboo 


EIGHTH   GRADE   WORK. 


153 


rollers,  one  for  the  warp  and  one  for  the  weft,  and  a  pair  of  gear. 
Under  a  convenient  tree,  the  weaver  digs  a  hole  large  enough  to  contain 
his  legs  and  the 
lower  part  of  the 
gear.  He  then 
stretches  his  warp 
by  placing  his  bam- 
boo rollers  a  certain 
distance  apart,  and 
fastening  them  with 
wooden  pins.  The 
rest  of  the  gear  he 
fastens  to  a  branch 
over  his  head.  In 
two  loops  under- 
neath the  gear  he 
inserts  his  great 
toes,  which  he  uses 
as  treadles.  The 
shuttle  with  which 
he  puts  the  weft 
through  the  warp 
is  a  large  netting 
needle,  which  he 
uses  as  a  batten  to 
push  each  thread 
closely  up  against 
the  last  one.  put 
through. 

Grecian  Vertical  Loom. 

Until  1733  the 

shuttle  containing  the  weft  was  put  through  the  warp  by  the  weaver's 
hand.     In  that  year,  John  Kay  invented  the  flying  shuttle,  which  is  a 


154 


SCIENTIFIC    SEWING  AND   GARMENT   CUTTING. 


mechanical  device  that  takes  the  weft  thread  swiftly  and  evenly  through 
the  warp  without  as  much  as  the  touch  of  a  hand.  This  machine  en- 
abled one  person  to 
do  as  much  as  two 
could  accomplish 
by  the  old  method. 
Plain  cloth  is 
made  by  simply 
putting  the  weft 
thread  under  and 
over  the  warp. 
For  fine  cloth,  the 
warp  threads,  which 
are  very  delicate, 
are  placed  so  that 
they  lie  closely  to- 
gether, and  the  weft 
threads,  which  are 
equally  delicate,  are 
put  in  so  that  they 
lie  as  close  together 
as  the  warp.  The 
process  by  which 
the  weft  threads 
are  made  to  lie 
close  together  is 
called  "battening," 
or  beating  the  weft 
up  in  place.  Fre- 

Inaian  Out-Door  Loom. 

quently,  part  of  the 

warp  and  part  of  the  weft  are  colored  in  such  a  way  as  to  form  checks, 
as  in  gingham,  or  simply  stripes. 


EIGHTH   GRADE   WORK.  155 

Corded  surfaces  and  an  almost  endless  variety  of  effects  are  obtained 
by  an  arrangement  which  causes  the  weft  to  pass  over  and  under  two  or 
three  threads  instead  of  a  single  thread  of  the  warp.  In  making  satin, 
which  had  its  origin  in  China,  the  passing  of  the  weft  through  the  warp 
is  so  managed  that  a  smooth  surface  is  presented.  What  is  known  as 
three-leaf  weaving  is  the  simplest  twill,  and  is  where  the  weft  passes 
over  two  and  under  one  warp  thread,  giving  the  appearance  of  a  suc- 
cession of  diagonal  lines.  Cashmeres,  serges,  and  all  kinds  of  goods 
with  a  twilled  surface,  are  woven  in  this  way,  although  the  number  of 
threads  that  are  taken  up  or  passed  over  varies  in  different  kinds  of  cloth, 
as  may  be  seen  by  raveling  out  a  piece  of  twilled  goods,  and  observing 
how  the  threads  are  placed. 

To  weave  cloth  in  intricate  and  artistic  patterns  of  various  colors,  a 
special  loom  is  necessary.  Such  a  loom  was  invented  by  Joseph  Marie 
Jacquard,  in  Lyons,  France,  in  1801.  It  is  really  a  combination  of 
machines ;  and  although  simple,  the  results  obtained  are  nothing  short 
of  marvelous.  It  was  invented  when  Napoleon  I.  was  Emperor  of 
France,  and  hearing  of  it  he  sent  for  the  inventor.  When  Jacquard 
arrived,  the  emperor  said  to  him :  - 

"  Are  you  the  man  who  pretends  to  do  that  which  God  Almighty 
cannot  do,  tie  a  knot  in  a  stretched  string  ?  "  For  answer,  Jacquard  pro- 
duced his  machine,  and  tied  the  stretched  string.  The  emperor  acknowl- 
edged that  he  could  do  what  he  had  supposed  was  impossible,  and  awarded 
him  a  pension  of  a  thousand  crowns  (twelve  hundred  dollars)  a  year. 

Loop  or  pile  weaving  is  where  the  weft  is  arranged  in  a  series  of 
loops,  as  in  Brussels  carpets.  This  kind  of  weaving  is  cut  or  Uncut,  as 
the  case  may  be.  Velvets  of  different  kinds  are  woven  in  this  way. 

It  was  in  1790,  at  Pawtucket,  R.I.,  that  the  first  factory  for  weav- 
ing cotton  cloth  in  the  United  States  was  established.  Since  then 
the  most  wonderful  machines  have  been  invented  for  weaving  cloth 
rapidly  and  beautifully,  and  yet  some  of  the  finest  work  of  this  kind  is 
still  done  by  hand. 

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